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2019-Washakie.html
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd">
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<title>Washakie, Aug 2019</title>
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<body>
<div class="banner">
<div class="title">Washakie Wilderness
<div class="title-date">August 2019</div></div>
</div>
<div class="regcontent">
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext">
<span class="dropcap">W</span>e have seen great vistas over the years, but for continuous scenery, hour after hour,
this year was the best yet. A picture is worth a thousand words, so let's go.
<br/>
</p>
<p class="regtext">
The Washakie Wilderness is in Shoshone National Forest, Wyoming, and constitutes part of the massive
southeast Yellowstone roadless area. As usual, click photos for high res versions.
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr/>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Day One</b></p>
<p class="regtext">
We began with some foreshadowing: the ranger's only comment about Kirwin was
"there's bears up there;" it was sprinkling and 47 degrees at 10 am (Aug 23rd);
the trailhead parking lot was vacant; and the trail was faint from the very start.
Excellent signs!
</p>
<p class="regtext">
Sadly, the biggest fail occurred before leaving the parking lot, when Padraig assessed
his sinuses against the weather and decided to abort. Given our soaking over the next
day, it was the right call. When he re-enters the story, his own adventures will
add texture and irony to our tale.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-gVkrqq2/0/00e476a6/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00912-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-gVkrqq2/0/00e476a6/L/2019-08-23-DSC00912-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Parking lot: only us</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
We started the trail up Brown Basin at 11am. It climbs through a bit of forest, then quickly opens into meadow & tundra.
Jason was the pace car despite hauling fresh produce and both frying pans.
The flat light allowed great photos amidst sprinkles of sleet and rain.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-j2pNfJ5/0/3e290ad4/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00922-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-j2pNfJ5/0/3e290ad4/L/2019-08-23-DSC00922-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Brown Basin "trail"</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-MFcmhrh/0/16564f09/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00936-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-MFcmhrh/0/16564f09/L/2019-08-23-DSC00936-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Above the tree line</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
We stopped for a half hour of lunch atop Greybull pass, the first 11k' pass of our trip,
while looking north into the massive Greybull valley and headwaters.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-JDQM65C/0/1edefb49/X4/2C7A1190-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-JDQM65C/0/1edefb49/L/2C7A1190-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Greybull Valley from Greybull Pass</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
After a 15-minute descent across the steep, loose, slope, we entered miles of gentle grasslands
with barely a trail to be found.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-zGnGPwW/0/35b264c2/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00958-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-zGnGPwW/0/35b264c2/L/2019-08-23-DSC00958-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Descent from Greybull Pass. Glad we're heading down, not up</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-DH5mZCX/0/7166dea6/X4/2C7A1209-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-DH5mZCX/0/7166dea6/L/2C7A1209-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Getting gentler</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-HnVQP52/0/e9a1bb91/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00968-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-HnVQP52/0/e9a1bb91/L/2019-08-23-DSC00968-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Ah, meadow heaven</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The drenching rain began around 2:45pm, as we passed the old Miner's cabin near Yellow Creek.
We split up during the hardest downpour, with some huddling in the woods, Alex sitting in the miner's cabin,
Steve pushing onward, and me trying to find everyone.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-pFc8fsL/0/3a4b5116/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00974-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-pFc8fsL/0/3a4b5116/L/2019-08-23-DSC00974-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Rain descending Yellow Creek above the cabin</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The next hour was wet and cold as we continued downstream. We forded the Greybull at the Steer Creek confluence,
then continued a bit farther before choosing a campsite near the river, past the first stream on our right.
Thankfully the rain stopped before dinner, though everything remained damp til morning.
As usual, we cooked our Wagyu Ribeye and cornucopia of vegetables;
the bacon brussels sprouts were particularly tasty.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-pLVQZs6/0/21b309bd/X4/2019-08-23-DSC00983-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-pLVQZs6/0/21b309bd/L/2019-08-23-DSC00983-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Sunset on the upper Greybull</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Kirwin Trailhead</td><td>Greybull Pass</td><td>2:25</td><td>includes 0:15 resting</td></tr>
<tr><td>Greybull Pass</td><td>Yellow Creek Cabin</td><td>0:50</td><td>first 0:15 loose rocky switchbacks</td></tr>
<tr><td>Yellow Creek Cabin</td><td>Steer Creek Junction</td><td>1:00</td><td>first boots-off crossing</td></tr>
<tr><td>Steer Creek Junction</td><td>Campsite</td><td>0:40</td><td></td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Day Two</b></p>
<p class="regtext">
Dawn was frosty and damp. Starting a campfire at 645am required some cheating. Alex did the usual.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-RmQ8x2F/0/cad3dab0/X4/2019-08-24-DSC00990-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-RmQ8x2F/0/cad3dab0/L/2019-08-24-DSC00990-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Bacon by fire</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
By 9am we finally had warm sunshine. We became fully dry for the first time in 24 hours.
</p>
<p class="regtext">
Continuing downstream, we reached the Cow Creek junction, with its knee-deep crossing to turn up Cow Creek.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-DLHxMWw/0/83fb22a7/X4/2019-08-24-DSC00998-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-DLHxMWw/0/83fb22a7/L/2019-08-24-DSC00998-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Greybull ford at Cow Creek</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The first hour afterwards had flat, easy hiking through a pungent meadow, hopping across the creek once or twice.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-7d2qVfb/0/1979a8a3/X4/2019-08-24-DSC01025-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-7d2qVfb/0/1979a8a3/L/2019-08-24-DSC01025-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Up Cow Creek</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
After lunch it veered left into the best continuous valley we've seen in years: switchbacks up a massive bowl with elk roaming near the ridge. The trail often disappeared, or nearly so.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-Qm9zKQH/0/054e6ef6/X4/2019-08-24-DSC01048-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-Qm9zKQH/0/054e6ef6/L/2019-08-24-DSC01048-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Getting better</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-K7jdRq4/0/4034a6be/X4/2019-08-24-DSC01054-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-K7jdRq4/0/4034a6be/L/2019-08-24-DSC01054-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Us (specks in the grassy middle) and elk (specks in the snowfield)</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
We rested atop gentle Burwell Pass, the second 11k pass of our trip. The skies had that special clarity
of one-day-post-storm. Aside from gusty winds, conditions were ideal.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-KQhPRJZ/0/f693fbe8/X4/2C7A1297-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-KQhPRJZ/0/f693fbe8/L/2C7A1297-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Near Burwell Pass, looking back from whence we came</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-LXSMbzQ/0/11c4143b/X4/IMG_2745-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-LXSMbzQ/0/11c4143b/L/IMG_2745-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Burwell Pass, looking east</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The descent briefly follows the ridgeline before dropping onto a quality trail, comfortably etched into the grassy slope.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-RNz2bSV/0/d5c61cf8/X4/2C7A1312-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-RNz2bSV/0/d5c61cf8/L/2C7A1312-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Ridgeline descent</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-WhBQhLr/0/27ede27d/X4/2019-08-24-DSC01086-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-WhBQhLr/0/27ede27d/L/2019-08-24-DSC01086-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Excellent trail down from Burwell Pass</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
Within an hour we reached the valley floor. The lead party scouted extensively up and down Wiggins fork,
eventually choosing a site a few minutes downstream. We ate our deliciously salty
and carby jambalya while the clouds rolled in. Around the campfire we reflected that when integrating over
an entire day, today's hike was perhaps our all-time best, given the hour after hour of ever-changing, beautiful vistas.
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-wD5xt6p/0/7da0e7f1/X4/2019-08-25-DSC01125-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-wD5xt6p/0/7da0e7f1/L/2019-08-25-DSC01125-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Camp two, beneath Jeff's buttress</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-zr5PJjZ/0/e5348f3e/X4/2019-08-24-DSC01120-X4.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2019/2019-08-Washakie/i-zr5PJjZ/0/e5348f3e/L/2019-08-24-DSC01120-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Fireside chats</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Campsite on Greybull River</td><td>Cow Creek Junction</td><td>0:40</td><td>knee deep crossing</td></tr>
<tr><td>Cow Creek Junction</td><td>Lunch spot mid-valley</td><td>1:05</td><td>just after stream hop; crappy campsite in woods</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lunch spot</td><td>Burwell Pass</td><td>2:30</td><td>Plus 25 minutes resting on uphills</td></tr>
<tr><td>Burwell Pass</td><td>Wiggins Fork</td><td>1:00</td><td>downhill, easy, excellent path</td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext">
Due to number of photos, days 3-5 are
<a href="2019-Washakie2.html">continued on a new page</a>
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