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2017-GrosVentre.html
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<title>Total Eclipse in the Gros Ventre, Aug 2017</title>
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<div class="banner">
<div class="title">Total Eclipse
<div class="title-date">Gros Ventre Wilderness, August 2017</div></div>
</div>
<div class="regcontent">
<p class="quotetext">
<br/>
Nothing is unexpected, nothing is foresworn and<br/>
Nothing amazes now that father Zeus the Olympian<br/>
Veiled the light to make it night at midday<br/>
Even as sun was shining: so dread fear has overtaken men.<br/>
<br/>
From this time on everything that men believe<br/>
Will be doubted: may none of us who see this be surprised<br/>
When we see forest beasts taking turns in the salted field<br/>
With dolphins, when the echoing waves of the sea become<br/>
Dearer to them than the sand, and the dolphins love the wooded glen…<br/>
<br/>
<i>Archilochus,
<a href="https://sententiaeantiquae.com/2015/09/26/now-nothing-is-unexpected-archilochus-on-an-eclipse-fr-122/">fragment 122</a></i>
</p>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext">
<span class="dropcap">O</span>ne time before you've <a href="2014-GrosVentre.html">seen us</a> in Gros Ventre,<br/>
With sentence wrought on sentence, known as prose,<br/>
A trick done twice is more than one should want,<br/>
So in pentameter this version goes.<br/>
(Except the parts co-opted from the sages,<br/>
And tailored from their brilliance to our pages.)<a href="#footnote1">[1]</a><br/>
<br/>
</p>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext">
When summer's gentle rains have pierced the drought<br/>
Of March right to the root, and bathed each sprout<br/>
Through every vein with liquid of such power <br/>
It brings forth the engendering of the flower;<br/>
On pilgrimage then folks desire to start.
<a href="#footnote2">[2]</a><br/>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-pMSHF2J/0/4c3320d0/X3/IMG_2986-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-pMSHF2J/0/4c3320d0/L/IMG_2986-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Like last time: elevation gain & flowers of every hue</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
In warm repose upon a flowerly rise,<br/>
A bagel feast we ate beneath blue skies.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-tVrDK2c/0/1fd53eb0/X3/IMG_3002-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-tVrDK2c/0/1fd53eb0/L/IMG_3002-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Scenery, sunshine, and a gentle breeze</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The creeks we crossed not once or twice, but more,<br/>
(bless'd creeks that keep the glamping throngs away),<br/>
Five times the boots unlaced for most of us,<br/>
Except for John and I, who, as they say,<br/>
Left dusty laces tied and "bombed across."<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-rNfhrLN/0/a5689361/X3/IMG_3009-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-rNfhrLN/0/a5689361/L/IMG_3009-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Cold, clear, refreshing</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
And then 'twas up and up and up and up,<br/>
A weary half a mile into the sky,<br/>
With insects swarming at each shady stop,<br/>
Til at Shoal Lake we finally arrived.<br/>
<br/>
We stoked the flames to sear the ribeye steak,<br/>
Plus spinach, wine, polenta, smores and more,<br/>
And with our bellies full we soon retired,<br/>
'Neath firmament of shooting stars galore.<br/>
</p>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Trailhead</td><td>Ridge above Shoal</td><td>3:10</td><td>Includes 10min of short breaks</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td></td><td>0:25</td><td>Lunch on ridge</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ridge above Shoal</td><td>First shade on ascent</td><td>1:00</td><td>1 Creek crossing</td></tr>
<tr><td>First shade on ascent</td><td>Shoal Lake</td><td>3:30-4:00</td><td>Includes 4 crossings, ~60min of breaks</td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Day Two</b></p>
<p class="regtext">
"Two forks, no brows: the life of Alex M,"<br/>
Is how he crisped the bacon on the fire,<br/>
The eggs -- all present -- graced the taco shells,<br/>
We filled, then drained, then packed, then set out higher.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-QpVjB3B/0/f68ab627/X3/IMG_3032-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-QpVjB3B/0/f68ab627/L/IMG_3032-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Past the upper lakes</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-ZgjhBFr/0/2df373b4/X3/IMG_3037-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-ZgjhBFr/0/2df373b4/L/IMG_3037-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Idyllic off-trail travel in the upper Gros Ventre valley</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
With thoughts of Cowtown Pass to Brewster Lake,<br/>
We cruised halfway across the speckled hills,<br/>
But plans for best eclipse were still to make,<br/>
And tradeoffs caused a battle of the wills.<br/>
<br/>
Who won? Who lost? Well, Brewster lost that fight,<br/>
And toward an unnamed lake did we alight,<br/>
Arrived with time enough until the night,<br/>
For Suhas and his pizzas to delight.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-VGrZ6nV/0/ff4591ea/X3/IMG_3066-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-VGrZ6nV/0/ff4591ea/L/IMG_3066-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">Stoking the pizza oven on Skeeter Lake (soon to be Wolf Lake)</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-mGSmVJV/0/e77cd25e/X3/IMG_3065-X3.jpg">
<img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-mGSmVJV/0/e77cd25e/L/IMG_3065-L.jpg"></a>
<p class="caption">What, you expected food pics? We aren't millenials. Washing dishes with waterfall technique.</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
As dusk arrived and coals were dwindling low,<br/>
We heard the plaintive howls round about.<br/>
A pack of wolves was roving to and fro,<br/>
And one toward us unknowningly set out.<br/>
<br/>
He stopped and turned around with us in sight,<br/>
Once kindled he in us a new debate,<br/>
About the right technique to use at night,<br/>
When wolves around you possibly await.<br/>
<br/>
I tried to join a tent, but stench profound,<br/>
Repelled me (with JC) to open ground.<br/>
<br/>
(By dawn I saw that wolves would not have dared,<br/>
To breach our camp that snores like sickly bears.)<br/>
</p>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Shoal Lake</td><td>Partway across Meadow</td><td>1:35</td><td>Pass two small lakes</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td></td><td>0:45</td><td>Break for Brewster debate</td></tr>
<tr><td>Partway across Meadow</td><td>Skeeter Lake</td><td>0:40</td><td>Pretty lazy day</td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Day Three</b></p>
<p class="regtext">
The sun rose on our stationary day,<br/>
Delicious cakes we shoveled to our mouth,<br/>
Then four set out to summit Darwin Peak,<br/>
By going round the north, then east, then south.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-m2VwMzW/0/07781f9f/X3/IMG_3080-X3.jpg" alt=""></a><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-m2VwMzW/0/07781f9f/L/IMG_3080-L.jpg" alt=""></a><p class="caption">Jason atop Darwin summit</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
Five things 'bout Darwin Peak I'll share with you:<br/>
-- The loose, sharp scree that nearly tore my shoe,<br/>
-- The stream that disappeared to who-knows-where,<br/>
-- The Brewster Three reporting groups down there,<br/>
-- The view! The Winds, the Tetons, and our tent,<br/>
-- The butt glissade to hasten our descent.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-G95pzz2/0/77bfedd6/X3/IMG_3082-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-G95pzz2/0/77bfedd6/L/IMG_3082-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">Looking down at camp (the nearest lake)</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-rgT6tHX/0/af5914f2/640/2C7A0354-640.mp4"><video src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-rgT6tHX/0/af5914f2/640/2C7A0354-640.mp4" controls></a><p class="caption">Time-saving descent (video)</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
Arriving home midst elk and golden light,<br/>
Toward steaming Jambalaya did we steer,<br/>
And as the hills grew dim and stars grew bright,<br/>
The milky way quite early did appear.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-pKCpD4x/0/e2b33797/X3/IMG_3099-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-pKCpD4x/0/e2b33797/L/IMG_3099-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">Back to camp</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Wolf Lake</td><td>Traversing Scree</td><td>0:35</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Traversing Scree</td><td>Pond</td><td>0:30</td><td>Next time avoid scree traverse</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pond</td><td>Upper boulder field</td><td>1:20</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td></td><td>0:20</td><td>Lunch in shade of last large boulder</td></tr>
<tr><td>Large boulder</td><td>Darwin Peak</td><td>1:25</td>
<td>Mostly scree</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td></td><td>0:40</td><td>Enjoyed the summit</td></tr>
<tr><td>Darwin Peak</td><td>Lunch spot</td><td>0:50</td><td>Includes butt glissade</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lunch spot</td><td>Wolf Lake</td><td>1:40</td>
<td>Hard to retrace through forest without waypoints</td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Day Four -- Eclipse Day</b></p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-Z9KTrh7/0/96030c41/X2/Screen%20Shot%202017-02-14%20at%2011.26.39%20AM-X2.png"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-Z9KTrh7/0/96030c41/L/Screen%20Shot%202017-02-14%20at%2011.26.39%20AM-L.png"></a><p class="caption">Eclipse path through Wymoing</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The man who has not music in his soul,<br/>
And is not moved by concorde of sweet sounds,<br/>
Is fit for treasons, strategems, and spoils, -- <a href="#footnote3">[3]</a><br/>
Thus Roger's wholesome soul we know we've found:<br/>
<br/>
From tinny speakers of his iPhone five,<br/>
As rays of dawn bid gentle clouds depart,<br/>
Did waft the concorde of familiar tune,<br/>
About a total eclipse -- of the heart. <a href="#footnote4">[4]</a><br/>
<br/>
---<br/>
<br/>
We packed and climbed a gentle grassy knoll,<br/>
Its lines of sight extending to the rim,<br/>
Exchanged our views on poop in gopher holes,<br/>
Through silly glasses watched the sun grow slim.<br/>
<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-BTBqQF7/0/16c9ddc6/1920/IMG_6560-1920.mp4"><video src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-BTBqQF7/0/16c9ddc6/640/IMG_6560-640.mp4" controls></a><p class="caption">Darkness arrives (video) (parental advisory: some four-letter words)</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
No photo I have seen can match the sight:<br/>
Black moon engulfing the resplendent bight,<br/>
Corona: wispy, whirling, veiled light,<br/>
While warmth of day gives way to rapid night.<br/>
(Or as in forceful meter one did write:<br/>
<br/>
<i>
     With speed, thought baffling, unabating,<br/>
     Earth’s splendour whirls in circling flight;<br/>
     Its Eden-brightness alternating<br/>
     With solemn, awe-inspiring night. ) </i><a href="#footnote5">[5]</a><br/><br/>
<br/>
---<br/>
<br/>
Two hours in a blink had passed us by, --<br/>
Hypnotic was that peering at the sky --<br/>
And yet creation's speech had more to say:<br/>
A lessor gift no photo can portray;<br/>
The scent of sage and every subtle hue,<br/>
In waist-high meadows stretching out of view.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-gDtKjHq/0/df090428/X3/IMG_3125-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-gDtKjHq/0/df090428/L/IMG_3125-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">They neither labor nor spin</p></div>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-cLkHTZ4/0/fbdc102e/X3/IMG_3129-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-cLkHTZ4/0/fbdc102e/L/IMG_3129-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">Uncountable flowers everywhere we turned</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
The hike 'cross flowered stream beds wasn't far;<br/>
A swim we managed in the late-day light;<br/>
And then with pesto, whisky, and cigar,<br/>
Our final evening passed into the night.<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-HJnFjZP/0/3ad2b2b9/X3/IMG_3134-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-HJnFjZP/0/3ad2b2b9/L/IMG_3134-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">That's cold. 9 for 9 at the unnamed lake.</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Eclipse hill</td><td>Lake JC</td><td>3:40</td><td>Includes all breaks (I took bad notes)</td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Day Five</b></p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-5SX8TCV/0/582a5d5f/X3/IMG_3147-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-5SX8TCV/0/582a5d5f/L/IMG_3147-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">Departing Lake JC</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
With early light and early break of camp,<br/>
And quick traverse to route of yesteryear,<br/>
We snapped a final photo at the top,<br/>
By noon were on the road toward meat and beer.<br/>
<br/>
</p>
<div class="photo"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-Mmm4Sbc/0/c81b910e/X3/2C7A0478-X3.jpg"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2017/Gros-Ventre-Eclipse/i-Mmm4Sbc/0/c81b910e/L/2C7A0478-L.jpg"></a><p class="caption">The group at Swift Creek</p></div>
<p class="regtext">
Few things in nature are majestic more --<br/>
Don't miss the great eclipse in '24!<br/>
<br/>
<br/>
</p>
<p class="regtext">
<table class="regcontent">
<tr class="tableheader"><td>From</td><td>To</td><td>Time</td><td>Notes</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lake JC</td><td>Top of Swift Creek</td><td>0:40</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Top of Swift Creek</td><td>Parking Lot</td><td>2:05-3:20</td><td>Wide range of downhill speeds</td></tr>
</table>
</p>
<br/>
<br/>
<hr>
<br/>
<p class="regtext"><b>Final notes:</b>
<ul class="regtext">
<li>Eclipse -- Indescribably cool. Ideal viewing location. Don't miss 2024!</li>
<li>Fuel -- used 20oz white gas + 2.25x 8oz isobutanes. Cooked steaks, 4 pizzas, and 2 packs of bacon on the fire. White gas + wind shield is superior in wind.</li>
<li>Food -- Bill's new pancke is best yet; pizza was awesome, requires fire, and tongs would help; we are great at open fires; red pepper flakes improved the pesto</li>
<li>Crowds -- Saw several groups on day one, two people (miles away) on day two, three day hikers on day three, then no one until the final exit downhill. Parking lot: 12 cars in lot at entry (Fri), 20 at exit (Tue).</li>
<li>Route intel -- Day hikers reported 6 hour easy hike from Kinky Creek to Brewster Lake</li>
<li>Gear notes -- I'm ready to try 9x9 silny tarp; I need a glove solution; I need to alternate bandanas</li>
<li>Footwear -- one thin sock = fail = too sloppy; two thin socks great; bring produce bags for end-of-day drying; trail runners were net win: 5x reduction compared to pack weight, way better on trail, much faster stream crossing (fewer mosquito bites), neutral on most off-trail, worse on loose rock traverses</li>
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<p class="regtext"><b>Footnotes</b></p>
<p class="regtext" id="footnote1">[1] Stolen material is sometimes prose, sometimes verse, and may be
abridged, modified, interpreted, or interpolated to fit our story</p>
<p class="regtext" id="footnote2">[2] Chaucer, Canterbury Tales</p>
<p class="regtext" id="footnote3">[3] Shakespeare, The Merchant of Venice</p>
<p class="regtext" id="footnote4">[4] Cut me some slack on the pentameter -- that title can't be rammed into it</p>
<p class="regtext" id="footnote5">[5] Goethe, Faust (Swanwick translation)</p>
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