diff --git a/404.html b/404.html index 1b31719e..5950b8fb 100644 --- a/404.html +++ b/404.html @@ -1,2 +1,2 @@ 404 Page not found | Belfry Upkeep -

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Belfry Upkeep

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Belfry Upkeep

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Categories
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Introduction

Introduction diff --git a/docs/020-permissions/index.html b/docs/020-permissions/index.html index 2f4b0515..e97a96d1 100644 --- a/docs/020-permissions/index.html +++ b/docs/020-permissions/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Formal Requirements | Belfry Upkeep - +
Formal Requirements

Formal Requirements diff --git a/docs/030-faculty-rules/index.html b/docs/030-faculty-rules/index.html index ee25c659..d814e7bb 100644 --- a/docs/030-faculty-rules/index.html +++ b/docs/030-faculty-rules/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Faculty Jurisdiction Rules | Belfry Upkeep - +
Faculty Jurisdiction Rules

Faculty Jurisdiction Rules diff --git a/docs/040-health-and-safety/avian-flu/index.html b/docs/040-health-and-safety/avian-flu/index.html index 1a943a21..f39eca9f 100644 --- a/docs/040-health-and-safety/avian-flu/index.html +++ b/docs/040-health-and-safety/avian-flu/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Avian Influenza | Belfry Upkeep - +
Avian Influenza

Appendix: Cleaning Bell Chambers Contaminated with Bird Waste or Carcasses diff --git a/docs/040-health-and-safety/index.html b/docs/040-health-and-safety/index.html index afcbc17d..0975272b 100644 --- a/docs/040-health-and-safety/index.html +++ b/docs/040-health-and-safety/index.html @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ Health & Safety | Belfry Upkeep - +
Health & Safety

Health & Safety diff --git a/docs/050-bell-frames/index.html b/docs/050-bell-frames/index.html index b7243a53..087cb893 100644 --- a/docs/050-bell-frames/index.html +++ b/docs/050-bell-frames/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Bell Frames | Belfry Upkeep - +
Bell Frames

Bell Frames diff --git a/docs/060-headstocks/index.html b/docs/060-headstocks/index.html index 3dda21ae..94894a8d 100644 --- a/docs/060-headstocks/index.html +++ b/docs/060-headstocks/index.html @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ Details of how the wheel and stay are attached will be found in the relevant chapters.">Headstocks | Belfry Upkeep - +
Headstocks

Headstocks diff --git a/docs/070-wheels/index.html b/docs/070-wheels/index.html index d7144ec0..f5d13428 100644 --- a/docs/070-wheels/index.html +++ b/docs/070-wheels/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Wheels | Belfry Upkeep - +
Wheels

Wheels diff --git a/docs/080-stays-and-sliders/index.html b/docs/080-stays-and-sliders/index.html index b4610b6b..56492b60 100644 --- a/docs/080-stays-and-sliders/index.html +++ b/docs/080-stays-and-sliders/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Stays & Sliders | Belfry Upkeep - +
Stays & Sliders

Stays & Sliders diff --git a/docs/090-clappers/index.html b/docs/090-clappers/index.html index aa66bc6f..5ab9d8c7 100644 --- a/docs/090-clappers/index.html +++ b/docs/090-clappers/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Clappers | Belfry Upkeep - +
Clappers

Clappers diff --git a/docs/100-bearings/index.html b/docs/100-bearings/index.html index 09580387..e8f95074 100644 --- a/docs/100-bearings/index.html +++ b/docs/100-bearings/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Bearings | Belfry Upkeep - +
Bearings

Bearings diff --git a/docs/110-rope-route/index.html b/docs/110-rope-route/index.html index 6be82ade..4de62279 100644 --- a/docs/110-rope-route/index.html +++ b/docs/110-rope-route/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Rope Routes | Belfry Upkeep - +
Rope Routes

Rope Routes diff --git a/docs/120-ropes/index.html b/docs/120-ropes/index.html index 56ddc60b..5231b47b 100644 --- a/docs/120-ropes/index.html +++ b/docs/120-ropes/index.html @@ -1,9 +1,9 @@ Ropes | Belfry Upkeep - +
Ropes -

Ropes +

Ropes #

Ropes on a spider

The rope forms the essential connection between the bell and the ringer. It is a two-way communication – the ringer uses the rope to control the movement of the bell, while the rope provides information on the position of the bell and how fast it is moving.

The rope may have to negotiate obstacles between the bell and the ringer, such as pulleys, rope guides, rope chutes and rope bosses. These are covered in Rope Routes.

Rope Construction #

Ropes are built up in three stages: First, fibres are gathered and spun into yarns. For ropes made of natural fibres (such as hemp or flax), Rope Makers may buy yarns ready spun: they resemble string. A group of yarns is then twisted to form a strand and three (or possibly four) strands are twisted together to form a rope. At each stage, the direction of twist is reversed - this gives stability and strength to the final rope.

It is important to note that the fibres in a natural rope are not continuous: the yarn can easily be picked apart. The successive reverse twists provide friction to hold the fibres together. This is illustrated in Figure 1, taken from A Seaman’s Pocket Book, 1943. (‘Hawser-laid’ is a traditional term for a three-strand rope.)

components of a natural fibre rope

Figure 1: The components of a natural fibre rope

Since the 1970s, polyester ropes have been used for top ends of bell ropes. Some people still refer to this as ‘Terylene’, a brand name of that era which is no longer used. Other man-made materials have been used, so we will just refer to ‘artificial fibre’ to avoid confusion. While these ropes are still made up from strands, the fibres making up the strands are continuous.

Artificial ropes with a braided outer cover have been developed for nautical and climbing applications. An early example was Dyneema® and this name is commonly used, although other versions are available. These products have been used for the top ends of bell ropes because of their very low stretch and hard-wearing properties.

Parts of a bell rope #

Parts of a bell rope

Figure 2: Parts of a bell rope

The demands are different on different parts of a bell rope, shown in Figure 2:

  • The top end (A) needs to resist the atmosphere in the bell chamber and the wear and flexing experienced on the route to the ringing room.
  • Where a top end is made of artificial fibre, a splice (B) is used to join the artificial top end to the bottom end. There are two possibilities:
    • When a new rope is made with an artificial top end, the natural fibre of the bottom end is combined with the artificial fibre during manufacture to produce a ‘machine splice’ with very little change in the diameter of the rope, as can be seen at (B). This can only be done by a Rope Maker.
    • If the sally and tail end of an existing natural fibre rope are in good condition, an artificial fibre top end can be spliced on, usually with a short splice. This can be done, if needed, by a Steeple Keeper experienced in splicing. A suitable artificial fibre top end can be sourced from a Rope Maker.
  • Top end rope, be it natural or artificial, is not kind on ringers’ hands and natural fibre, wound to give a softer rope, is used for the bottom end of the rope – that part handled by the ringer. The two areas where the rope is handled are:
    • The Sally (C), handled at the handstroke, is made of wool fibres incorporated into the rope as it is made.
    • The Tail End (D), handled at the backstroke, is doubled back and tucked in. This allows adjustment of the tail end length and makes it more comfortable to handle. The very end of the rope will be finished (the term is ‘whipped’) to prevent fraying and to assist in tucking in the rope, as shown in Figure 3.

Example of whipping at end of rope

Figure 3: Example of whipping at end of a tail end rope

Natural or artificial? @@ -20,7 +20,8 @@ #

If ropes are kept in a good condition, with regular checks for wear and other damage, a rope should not break during ringing. But a Steeple Keeper will need to be able to deal with wear or other damage before a breakage, or to replace a rope. Also, there may be an urgent need to deal with a broken rope when visiting a tower not fortunate enough to have a capable Steeple Keeper.

Splicing #

Most repairs to bell ropes involve splicing. With practice, this can be carried out by the Steeple Keeper. We do not discuss the details further here as excellent guidance from the late Frank Beech is available in ‘Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated’, available here. This includes details of how to splice an artifical fibre top end onto an exisisting sally.

With natural fibre top ends, splicing was often needed because of wear at the garter hole and over the ground pulley. There was a common recommendation to order ropes longer than required to provide extra rope for repairs, with the excess being tied off at the wheel. With the much better wear properties of artificial fibre top ends this is not necessary.

The need for repair of a tail end is more likely and this can be carried out by a Steeple Keeper competent in making a short splice. Note that this must be done using ‘tail end’ rope to provide suitably soft handling. Bell Hangers and Rope Makers can provide lengths of such rope, with one end finished with a whipping to prevent fraying (see Figure 3). Even if a tail end seems to be beyond repair, it is worth discussing this with a Rope Maker. There may be other options available which are cheaper than a new rope.

Spare ropes #

If a repair cannot be carried out quickly, it may be useful to have a spare rope available. There is no need to hold a complete set of spare ropes: that is a waste of space and money. Depending on the range of sizes between your Treble and Tenor, up to three spares should be adequate to provide a temporary replacement for any bell.

Spare ropes should not be kept in a poorly ventilated cupboard. Ideally, they should be hung in a tidy coil in the ringing room, possibly in bags made of natural fibre to allow the ropes to ‘breathe’. This will also avoid the risk of attack by mice (Figure 7).

Rope attacked by mice

Figure 7: Rope attacked by mice while stored in a cupboard

Fitting a new rope -#

This is a job for at least two people: one in the bell chamber and the other in the ringing room. The Health & Safety aspects described in Health & Safety must be considered. Ideally, two people in the bell chamber would be preferable – at the least, an assistant can hold the rope in position while it is tied off on the wheel.

Unless you have a very straight drop from the bell to the ringing room, it is much easier if two ropes are involved. For simplicity, we will call these the ‘new’ and ‘old’ ropes. You have a choice:

  • In the ringing room, tie the top of the new rope to the old rope’s tail end and pull the new one up using the old rope, or
  • Take the new rope up to the bell chamber, tie the bottom of the new rope to the top of the old rope and lower both ropes down.
Either option finishes with a whole bell rope in the bell chamber, with the risk of it getting tangled or dirty. (This is where an assistant in the bell chamber is valuable.) If this is an issue, you could consider obtaining a thinner plain feeding rope and using that to lower the old rope and then pull up the new one.

The top end of the new rope is then fed through the garter hole on the wheel and gently pulled up until the assistant in the ringing room stops the rope at the correct sally height.

There are various ways of establishing the correct sally height. One option is to keep a record of the correct distance between the bottom of each sally and the floor; another option is to have a wooden stick marked with the correct height for each sally. Pragmatically, if the assistant in the ringing room is an experienced ringer you could just rely on their judgement.

The rope is then tied off on the top spokes of the wheel, see Figure 8. Details are given in Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated.

Rope tied off on wheel

Figure 8: Rope tied off on the main spokes of the wheel

Rope Driers +#

This is a job for at least two people: one in the bell chamber and the other in the ringing room. The Health & Safety aspects described in Health & Safety must be considered. Ideally, two people in the bell chamber would be preferable – at the least, an assistant can hold the rope in position while it is tied off on the wheel.

Unless you have a very straight drop from the bell to the ringing room, it is much easier if two ropes are involved. For simplicity, we will call these the ‘new’ and ‘old’ ropes. You have a choice:

  • In the ringing room, tie the top of the new rope to the old rope’s tail end and pull the new one up using the old rope, or
  • Take the new rope up to the bell chamber, tie the bottom of the new rope to the top of the old rope and lower both ropes down.
Either option finishes with a whole bell rope in the bell chamber, with the risk of it getting tangled or dirty. (This is where an assistant in the bell chamber is valuable.) If this is an issue, you could consider obtaining a thinner plain feeding rope and using that to lower the old rope and then pull up the new one.

The top end of the new rope is then fed through the garter hole on the wheel and gently pulled up until the assistant in the ringing room stops the rope at the correct sally height.

There are various ways of establishing the correct sally height. One option is to keep a record of the correct distance between the bottom of each sally and the floor; another option is to have a wooden stick marked with the correct height for each sally. Pragmatically, if the assistant in the ringing room is an experienced ringer you could just rely on their judgement.

The rope is then tied off on the top spokes of the wheel, see Figure 8. Details are given in Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated.

Rope tied off on wheel

Figure 8: Rope tied off on the main spokes of the wheel

Rope stretch +#

A new rope – or even a spare rope that has not been in use for a while – may exhibit some stretch when first used. Just a little stretch makes a bell more difficult to ring. Even experts must pull harder to control the bell and learners may be put off.

When ropes were made of natural fibre, it was common to hang a weight on the tail end, with the bell down, for a few days to reduce or eliminate stretch. With most top ends now made of artificial fibre, this is often not thought necessary. But many new ropes will have some stretch in the sally and tail end. Also, a rope of uncertain provenance may have an artificial top end with some stretch.

The extent and source of any stretch can be checked as follows.

For safety, this should be carried out by experienced ringers, with others staying out of the way.
  • Set the bell at backstroke
  • Carefully pull the tail end and check how far your hands move before the bell just lifts off the stay. If this is around more than an inch or so you may have a problem.
  • At the same time, ask a helper to check how far the top of the sally moves. If this is more than an inch or so, there is stretch in the top end.

If there is any evidence of stretch, you should be able to improve the situation by hanging a weight of around 25kg on the tail end (with the bell down) for a few days, or longer if necessary. If the stretch is in an artificial fibre top end you should consider having that replaced.

Rope Driers #

Ropes may become stiff in damp unheated ringing rooms. It may be possible to install a dehumidifier in a small ringing room but this would not be effective in the average size room. Ringers have produced home-made electrically heated rope driers but there are concerns over a lack of guidance on the safety of these. Following discussion with interested parties, suggestions have been prepared and these are included as an Appendix to this chapter.

Image Credits #

FigureDetails
Title PictureRopes on a spider at St Germanus, St Germans, Cornwall. Front cover of The Ringing World , 12 November 2021. Used with permission. (Photo: James Wray)
1Parts of a ‘Hawser Laid’ (three strand) rope, from A Seaman’s Pocket Book, 1943. Public domain document, see here.
2Parts of a bell rope. (Photo: Robin Shipp)
3Example of whipping at end of a tail end rope. (Photo: Robin Shipp)
4Yorkshire tail ends. (Photo: Alison Hodge)
5A typical spider, at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp)
6Knot to prevent a spider dropping below head height. (Photo: Robin Shipp)
7Rope attacked by mice while stored in a cupboard. (Photo: Robin Shipp)
8Rope tied off on the main spokes of a wheel, at Wickwar, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp)
Next Chapter - Previous Chapter

Disclaimer -#

Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.

Version 1.1.2, March 2024

© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers

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Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.

Version 1.2.0, March 2024

© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers

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Rope Driers

Appendix: Rope Driers for Bell Towers - Some Suggestions diff --git a/docs/130-bells/index.html b/docs/130-bells/index.html index 41ca0cad..35c74407 100644 --- a/docs/130-bells/index.html +++ b/docs/130-bells/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Bells | Belfry Upkeep - +
Bells

Bells diff --git a/docs/150-maintenance-schedule/index.html b/docs/150-maintenance-schedule/index.html index 2e23233d..1e5ce4c1 100644 --- a/docs/150-maintenance-schedule/index.html +++ b/docs/150-maintenance-schedule/index.html @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Maintenance Schedule | Belfry Upkeep - +
Maintenance Schedule

Maintenance Schedule diff --git a/docs/160-fault-finding/index.html b/docs/160-fault-finding/index.html index cc53a3ee..c85d2a98 100644 --- a/docs/160-fault-finding/index.html +++ b/docs/160-fault-finding/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Fault Finding | Belfry Upkeep - +
Fault Finding

Fault Finding diff --git a/docs/170-glossary/index.html b/docs/170-glossary/index.html index 909d36aa..5ec2c947 100644 --- a/docs/170-glossary/index.html +++ b/docs/170-glossary/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Glossary | Belfry Upkeep - +
Glossary

Glossary diff --git a/docs/180-acks-and-sources/index.html b/docs/180-acks-and-sources/index.html index f63e9ffc..6e1ee826 100644 --- a/docs/180-acks-and-sources/index.html +++ b/docs/180-acks-and-sources/index.html @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ Acknowledgements # Production Software: Hugo Static Site Generator, Book Theme. For technical advice: Bryn Reimer, Mark Elvers, Lucas Williams and Graham John. For words, pictures, reviews, comments and general assistance: Tina Andrew, David Bagley, John Beresford, Marcus Booth, Will Bosworth, Keith Brown, Dave Clark, Graham Clifton, Tony Crabtree, Alan Frost, Alison Hodge, James Joynson, Roger Lawson, Ernie de Legh-Runciman, Julia Lysaght, Robin Milford, Alan Moult, Allen Nunley, John Payton, Chris Pickford, Chris Povey, Philip Pratt, Mark Regan, Simon Ridley, David Roskelly, Robin Shipp, Malcolm Taylor, Aveline Perez de Vera, Andrew Ward, Peter Woollam.">Acknowledgements & Sources | Belfry Upkeep - +
Acknowledgements & Sources

Acknowledgements & Sources diff --git a/docs/index.html b/docs/index.html index 62c0c24b..7ce0e540 100644 --- a/docs/index.html +++ b/docs/index.html @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Docs | Belfry Upkeep - +
Docs
\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/en.search-data.min.de2738b02a4e599f0e78c2f743d55a9a8d481beeea5c085196016ec242554013.json b/en.search-data.min.3191de5b13791aa64b3c5c0891a0438e495b9f226b4b2a797639575a4a9ddbc6.json similarity index 77% rename from en.search-data.min.de2738b02a4e599f0e78c2f743d55a9a8d481beeea5c085196016ec242554013.json rename to en.search-data.min.3191de5b13791aa64b3c5c0891a0438e495b9f226b4b2a797639575a4a9ddbc6.json index d5fc92d0..a20b6d49 100644 --- a/en.search-data.min.de2738b02a4e599f0e78c2f743d55a9a8d481beeea5c085196016ec242554013.json +++ b/en.search-data.min.3191de5b13791aa64b3c5c0891a0438e495b9f226b4b2a797639575a4a9ddbc6.json @@ -1 +1 @@ -[{"id":0,"href":"/docs/010-introduction/","title":"Introduction","section":"Docs","content":" Introduction # Details of a bell installation are out of sight and out of mind for a surprising number of ringers but will soon be obvious if their upkeep is neglected. At the least, the bells may become progressively more difficult to handle, leading to poor striking, discouraging ringers and frightening away learners. At worst, it could result in expensive damage to the installation.\nThis online document is addressed primarily at Steeple Keepers, who are responsible for carrying out the activities described here. Their role, appointment and experience levels are described here. We also provide a guide to finding your way around the whole document.\nThe Steeple Keeper # There are many different sorts of bell installations and many different types of Steeple Keeper. We will need to generalise: please use common sense where necessary to refer our words to your own case. Role # A Steeple Keeper (there may be alternative names) is someone who has been appointed to maintain a bell installation in a safe and effective working condition. The ways in which an appointment may be made are covered in Formal Requirements.\nThe role involves regular checks, responding to incidents, carrying out maintenance within the level of their experience, and referring problems to specialists (usually Bell Hangers) where necessary.\nA Steeple Keeper may be able to obtain help from their ringing society or association. Note the following announcement which appeared in the 26 January 2024 issue of The Ringing World.\nDo ringing societies have information about people in their area who are involved in belfry maintenance work? If so, would you be willing to share any data (anonymised) with the CCCBR Stewardship \u0026amp; Management Workgroup?\nWe hear that the number of people willing and able to do maintenance work in belfries seems to be reducing, and that their age profile is very high (mainly over 60). Their diversity is almost exclusively white male! Are these observations typical and how pervasive? This is what we hope to find out more rigorously and, if so, consider what are we doing as ringers to make sure that we will have people in future who are competent to help maintain the bells that we ring.\nIf you are willing and able to help, then please contact the Workgroup Leader, by email at smlead@cccbr.org.uk.\nExperience levels # This document is NOT intended to provide a qualification system for Steeple Keepers. Rather, we adopt the descriptive terms defined below in bold:\nA Novice Steeple Keeper is one learning the task. We hope this document will be helpful, but the main instruction will come from local experts, both in formal courses and one-to-one practical demonstrations, supported by wider reading and other information, often backed by technical and engineering knowledge and experience. A Typical Steeple Keeper will have carried out all the routine tasks relevant to their own tower under supervision and will then be capable of carrying them out without supervision; most importantly, they will be capable of recognising cases where they do need to seek guidance. Most Steeple Keepers will fall into this category. An Experienced Steeple Keeper will have experience of a wide range of installations and their potential problems (although they will never make the mistake of thinking they know it all). They will play a role in the task of aiding others in the transition from Novice to Typical Steeple Keeper. In some cases, we will identify tasks which must be carried out by a Specialist, often a Bell Hanger. The fittings and materials of a bell installation may not be familiar to a standard engineering contractor and care must be taken in selecting any other than a specialist Bell Hanger.\nIn this document, we are using the term ‘Bell Hanger’, be they an individual or a company, as having experience in bell installations and meeting the regulatory and insurance requirements to carry out this work. Finding Your Way Round this Document # Links to chapters are in the left-hand side navigation menu and links to sections within each chapter are in the right-hand navigation menu. If you are using a small screen you may need to click on the menu bars (three stacked horizontal lines) in the top left or right to access these menus.\nWithin the text, links to sections within the current chapter, to other chapters, and to external web references are shown in blue. Links shown in bold italic blue refer to entries in the \u0026lsquo;Glossary\u0026rsquo; chapter.\nEach chapter covers a major component part of a bell installation. The following points should be noted:\nThese are not intended as a complete historical description of the component. They provide enough background for the reader to recognise which of the many types of installation they may encounter and the problems which may occur. The basic checks which need to be carried out are described. The maintenance which a Typical Steeple Keeper can carry out is described, and activities that must be referred to a Specialist (usually a professional Bell Hanger) are clearly identified. Some chapters are common to all components of an installation. Please read them: they are important and some have legal implications. They are:\nFormal Requirements covers the need for ringers to recognise the authority responsible for the tower and its fittings, and the need to establish a good working relationship with them. Relevant regulations are described and outline descriptions are given of differences in jurisdictions other than the Church of England. Faculty Jurisdiction Rules covers the legally based rules which apply within Church of England jurisdiction, with specific guidance on those most relevant to ringers. Health \u0026amp; Safety provides guidance on the practical application of Health \u0026amp; Safety principles within the bell chamber. If You Are Just Starting Out # It may be that you have just ‘inherited’ a new tower – perhaps one where there has been no checking or maintenance for a number of years. Where do you start? For either a Novice or a Typical Steeple Keeper, we strongly recommend that you initiate a full inspection by an expert – ideally a Bell Hanger or a Belfry Adviser in your local Guild or Association. This will provide a baseline for drawing up a schedule for your own regular checking and maintenance (see Maintenance Schedule).\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Hawkesbury, Gloucestershire, new ring of 8 bells, cast by Allanconi in Italy, 2020, installed by Matthew Higby. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.2.2, January 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":1,"href":"/docs/020-permissions/","title":"Formal Requirements","section":"Docs","content":" Formal Requirements # With very few exceptions, the bell ringers do not own the bells. There will usually be what we will term an Authorising Body that will have a legal responsibility for the tower and its contents.\nThe Steeple Keeper should be formally appointed by the Authorising Body in a clear, democratic, and traceable way, probably for a defined period of time. Once appointed, the Steeple Keeper should maintain contact with the Authorising Body at frequent intervals. While this applies to all ringers, it is particularly important for the Steeple Keeper because the operation and needs of a bell installation may not be familiar to the average member of an Authorising Body.\nRequirements within the Church of England # Of the over 7000 rings of bells in the world, around 90% are within the jurisdiction of the Church of England (CoE). This document is aimed world-wide, however, and we also provide further information in Other Jurisdictions.\nThe ChurchCare website provides useful general information.\nAuthorising Body # Within the Church of England this role is usually filled by the Churchwardens and the Parochial Church Council (PCC). The legal ownership of the bells is vested in the Churchwardens. The PCC has a duty for the use, maintenance and insurance of the bells.\nRingers must remember that Churchwardens and PCC members are volunteers, with many responsibilities other than the bells. The Steeple Keeper (and other members of the band) should build up good relations with them. This should involve, at least:\nInforming them of all activities associated with the bell installation. Warning them of any problems with the installation. Involving them in important decisions. Being in a position to discuss any church restoration or alteration projects which may have implications for the bell installation. Useful guidance is here. Faculty Jurisdiction Rules # The Faculty Jurisdiction Rules, discussed in more detail here, cover the permissions required to carry out changes to a church. They are legal requirements, and the Church Wardens and PCC members are liable for action if they are not followed. Any changes to the bell installation must be discussed with the Church Wardens and PCC to establish what action may be needed under the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules.\nEcclesiastical Exemption # A Steeple Keeper is unlikely to be involved in the workings of the Ecclesiastical Exemption, but it is worth understanding the principle, as this drives the need for the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules.\nThe Ecclesiastical Exemption provides a mechanism for certain denominations to be exempted from the listed building consent systems administered by local planning authorities. In July 2010, the Department for Culture, Media and Sport issued revised Guidance on the Order covering the operation of the Ecclesiastical Exemption for places of worship in England. This is relevant to bell installations within the Church of England and the Roman Catholic Church in England.\nQuoting the Guidance: “The 2010 Order limits the Ecclesiastical Exemption to certain buildings within the care of specified denominations which have demonstrated that they operate acceptable internal procedures for dealing with proposed works to listed ecclesiastical buildings …”. The Faculty Jurisdiction Rules are the “acceptable internal procedures” for the Church of England. Arrangements for the other jurisdictions are covered in Other Jurisdictions.\nArchaeologically significant sites # When repairs or alterations to or in historic churches and/or churchyards are under consideration the potential for archaeological implications should always be borne in mind. A guide to church building works with archaeological implications is available here. For a bell installation, the most likely case would be the removal or modification of a historic bell frame. For this, the Church would need to produce a Statement of Significance and the Steeple Keeper would need to contribute their knowledge and experience to this.\nProtected wildlife # For a church tower, bats are the most likely case of protected wildlife – and this is a case where the Steeple Keeper may be the first to detect a possible problem. The Bat Conservation Trust provides useful information here.\nFigure 1: Nesting boxes for swifts installed in tower louvres\nThere may also be restrictions concerning certain species of birds in the nesting season. Churches can make a positive contribution by providing nest sites. Figure 1 shows nesting boxes installed for swifts – a species that is declining due to lack of suitable nest sites. The birds are flourishing and not bothered by the noise of the bells. Further information is given here.\nIf you have access to The Ringing World, Alistair Whybrow has two articles describing the installation of swift boxes at Kingsteignton, Devon: Bell chambers offer sanctuary for swifts, 7 December 2018 (p1224) and Swift boxes have success in second year!, 29 November 2019 (p1172). Other Jurisdictions # Differences between national laws (even within the devolved parts of the United Kingdom) and between various religious denominations complicate any simple guidance. The following sections provide an initial and incomplete summary which we hope to extend and refine.\nChurches Conservation Trust (CCT) # The online Edition of Dove’s Guide (as of 29 May 2022) records an overall total of 119 full circle rings of 3 or more bells in the care of the CCT, of which 69 are considered to be in a ringable condition. The Trust is striving to put their churches back at the hearts of the communities in which they stand. To this end, they are very encouraging for any groups to use them, and that includes bell ringing.\nCCT churches do not require a faculty in the same way as the Church of England; permission is obtained from the CCT area management. The CCT does not benefit from the Ecclesiastical Exemption, so major work will require listed building consent as appropriate. There may be differences in the approach of various CCT Regions but the general advice is to remain on good terms with the local and Area CCT staff.\nEnglish Cathedrals # Within the CoE jurisdiction, the legal process for cathedrals run parallel with parish church legislation passed by Synod via the Church Commissioners and Parliament. The Ecclesiastical Exemption covers all CoE buildings, fixtures and fittings. The amenity groups have a statutory right to be consulted.\nFor Cathedrals the Cathedrals Fabric Commission for England (CFCE) is the equivalent of the Church Buildings Council (CBC). There is more Government and amenity group involvement in the CFCE committees. Each of the cathedrals has its own Fabric Advisory Committee (FAC). This equates to each cathedral having its own Diocesan Advisory Committee. All the cathedrals and churches committees sit within the CBC.\nIreland # In the Church of Ireland (which includes churches in Northern Ireland), applications up to a specified amount are made through the incumbent and the Select Vestry (the equivalent of the PCC in England) to the appropriate Diocesan Council. Financial limits vary (in the Diocese of Limerick for example the limit is €10,000). For major works, applicants visit the Church of Ireland website and download the P5 form, which is self-explanatory.\nThe three RC churches in Ireland that have bells (Mount St Alphonsus, SS Augustine \u0026amp; John and Rowe Street) all come under different jurisdictions. Mount St Alphonsus \u0026ldquo;belongs to the Redemptorists and decisions regarding infrastructure would be made by our provincial council in consultation with the Rector of Mount St Alphonsus and with the advice of our buildings officer\u0026rdquo;. John\u0026rsquo;s Lane is an Augustinian church so it would be appropriate to apply through their priest to their Order. Rowe Street Wexford would follow the same procedure as the RC churches in England.\nThere is no Ecclesiastical Exemption in the Republic of Ireland. Bodies responsible for a place of worship included on the list of protected structures are required to gain agreement from the local authority for any works of alteration – both inside and out.\nFor Northern Island, a consultation on Ecclesiastical Exemption held in 2016 included views that the Exemption should be abandoned, as for the Republic. However, the Minister for Communities concluded that the Ecclesiastical Exemption should continue.\nIsle of Man # Although the Isle of Man is part of the Church of England (indeed the oldest established diocese in the CoE), and comes under the Archdiocese of York, it is not subject to UK domestic law. Hence, the UK Faculty Jurisdiction Rules and all other UK church law do not apply to the Isle of Man. However, the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules are copied into Manx Law with some minor differences.\nA fundamental difference is that the Ecclesiastical Exemption does not apply in the Isle of Man. For faculty applications that need civil planning approval, this must be obtained before any formal faculty application is made.\nScotland # Historic Environment Scotland provide guidance (pdf download) on the operation of the Ecclesiastical Exemption in Scotland.\nWales # The Faculty Procedure in the Church of Wales (CoW) is similar but not identical to that in the Church of England (CoE). For example, the CoE allow more works under their Lists A and B items than the CoW. The CoE also allow Archdeacons to approve List B items, while approval of the Diocesan Registrar is required in the CoW.\nA Faculty is required for works outside lists A and B. This needs to be approved by a Diocesan Chancellor (normally a secular judge) before the works can proceed.\nUnlike the Church of England, the Church in Wales owns its churches which are essentially held in trust (formally called the Representative Body of the Church in Wales).\nFollowing a consultation in 2018, Ecclesiastical Exemption broadly similar to that in the Church of England has been implemented in Wales.\nOutside the British Isles # We do not yet have detailed information from Australia/New Zealand, North America, or other towers outside the British Isles. Australia/New Zealand and North America have an increasing number of ringing towers, with a variety of religious denominations. Currently, we suggest you contact their ringing societies (both affiliated to the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers) for more information:\nAustralian and New Zealand Association of Bellringers North American Guild of Change Ringers (USA and Canada) Image Credits # Figure Details 1 Swift nesting boxes installed at Wingrave, Buckinghamshire. (Photo: Alison Hodge, used with permission from Alan Frost) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.3, March 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":2,"href":"/docs/030-faculty-rules/","title":"Faculty Jurisdiction Rules","section":"Docs","content":" Faculty Jurisdiction Rules # This chapter refers to activities carried out in churches within the jurisdiction of the Church of England. Ringers must remember that the Rules are set out in law, with possible penalties if they are not followed. Meeting the Rules is the responsibility of the Churchwardens and the Parochial Church Council, and ringers must use their specialist knowledge to assist the Church authorities in any application. Guidance should be sought from the Diocesan Secretary, The Diocesan Bell Advisor, and the local Guild or Association. Ringers are probably aware that a Faculty may be required prior to work being done in a Church of England Church. The faculty process exempts churches from listed building consent and conservation area consent that could apply elsewhere. When alterations are proposed, the parish must present the proposals to the archdeacon. For minor alterations, the archdeacon may authorise the work but more major projects will be judged by the Chancellor of the diocese, taking advice from specialists in the Diocesan Advisory Committee. The faculty is the legal authorisation of the work by the Chancellor.\nThe faculty system is a judicial system, so these notes reflect this style. Parishes and ringers intending do any work in their tower or on their bells must consider the full implications of the Rules.\nBackground # The Faculty Jurisdiction Rules 2015 were introduced with the intention of simplifying the faculty process and reducing the burden of administration, in particular for churchwardens and others in parishes with responsibility for church buildings. The major innovation of the 2015 Rules was the introduction of Lists A and B for items that could be undertaken without a faculty, subject to some general conditions stipulated in the Schedule.\nA useful guide to the application of Lists A and B contains the following advice:\nThe works in List A may be undertaken without faculty and without informing your archdeacon. They are to allow for the routine maintenance and inspection of bells that are in regular use and where there is a tower captain, or other person, who has sufficient skills and knowledge to ensure that the work is done with due regard to health and safety and the protection of historically significant parts of the installation. List A does not permit work requiring a bell to be lifted from its bearings or making alterations to an installation.\nWorks in List B require the Archdeacon to be consulted to confirm that a faculty is not needed. The Archdeacon will take advice from the DAC and its bells adviser before giving notice that the proposals may be undertaken without a faculty, or advising that they require a full faculty application.\nAs with List A, these works should only be carried out by persons with sufficient skills and knowledge to complete the work to a satisfactory standard, with due regard to Health and Safety and the protection of historically significant parts of the installation. This may require a bellhanger to carry out or oversee the works.\nAlthough a series of relatively minor works may be all that is necessary to bring an installation back into use, the provisions of List B are principally for bells in regular use. If an installation is being brought back into use after a period of over 5 years a professional bell hanger must be consulted to see that all aspects of the ring are fit for use.\nList B cannot be used for works that require the removal of the bell from the belfry or for works that involve drilling, tuning, or other work that would make a lasting change to the bell.\nThe Rules were amended in 2019 and again in 2022. The full version of the latest guidance is here.\nItems Most Likely to be of Relevance for Ringers # The extracts given below are from Scedule 1 of the (very long) document referenced above and are relevant to bells and associated fittings, and also to clocks. Church clocks are included here because they are typically housed in the church tower and in many cases use the ringing bells as clock bells. Selected items from the Church building section which may be relevant to a Steeple Keeper are also included.\nPlease note that, if you need to be involved in preparing a Faculty, the extracts below are not a substitute for the full document. List A # As stated above, items in List A may simply be undertaken (within the specified conditions) by a parish without a faculty and without the need for any form of consultation. The Steeple Keeper will work closely with the parish in discussions on these.\nA1. Church building, etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(4) The repair or like for like replacement of wire mesh window guards\rOnly non-corroding fixings are used and, where practicable, are fixed in mortar joints\r(5) The treatment of timber against beetle or fungal activity where the church is not a listed building\rThe works do not involve the replacement of timber\r(17) The installation of bat boxes as part of a bat management programme\r(19) The installation of bird netting to tower windows\rA3. Bells etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) The inspection and routine maintenance of bells, bell fittings and bell frames\rNo tonal alterations are made to any bell\nNo bell is lifted from its bearings\n(2) The repair and maintenance of clappers, crown staples (including re-bushing) and bell wheels\rWorks do not include the re-soling or re-rimming of a bell wheel\nNo bell is lifted from its bearings\n(3) The repair or replacement of bell stays, pulleys, bell ropes (including in Ellacombe apparatus), rope bosses, sliders or slider gear\rNo bell is lifted from its bearings\r(4) The repainting of metal bell frames and metal bell fittings\rNo bell is lifted from its bearings\rA4. Clocks # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) The inspection and routine maintenance of clocks and clock dials\rWorks do not include re-painting or re-gilding of clock dials or repainting clock movements\r(2) Maintenance and like-for-like repairs, without removing the clock from the church, of:\n(a) ratchets, clicks and click springs on flies\n(b)locking levers\n(c)pulleys\n(d)broken hands\n(e)clock hammers and their springs\n(3) Replacement of:\n(a)weight lines\n(b)suspension springs\n(c)fixings of clock dials\n(4) The reinstallation of disconnected hands and numerals\rWorks do not include re-painting or re-gilding of clock dials or repainting clock movements\r(5) Repairs to bell cranks and clock bell hammers\r(6) The upgrading of electrical control devices and programmers\rAny work to an electrical installation is carried out by a person whose work is subject to an accredited certification scheme (as defined in rule 3.1(6))\rList B # This table prescribes items which may, subject to any specified conditions, be undertaken without a faculty if the archdeacon has been consulted on the proposal to undertake the matter and has given notice in writing that the matter may be undertaken without a faculty. The archdeacon may impose additional conditions in the written notice. The Steeple Keeper will provide technical assistance in preparation of the proposal to the archdeacon.\nB1. Church building, etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(4) The treatment of timber against beetle or fungal activity where the church is not a listed building\rThe works do not involve the replacement of timber\r(19) The introduction of bird boxes\rB2. Bells etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) The lifting of a bell to allow the cleaning of bearings and housings\rRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(2) The like for like replacement of—\n(a)bearings and their housings\n(b)gudgeons\n(c)crown staple assembly\n(d)steel or cast iron headstocks\n(e)wheels\nRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nThe works do not involve the drilling or turning of the bell\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(3) The replacement of—\n(a)bell bolts\n(b)a wrought iron clapper shaft with a wooden-shafted clapper\nRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(4) The treatment of timber bell frames with preservative or insecticide materials\r(5) The re-pinning or re-facing of hammers in Ellacombe apparatus\rRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(6) The installation of an electric silent ringing device for the training of ringers\rAny work to an electrical installation or electrical equipment is carried out by a person whose work is subject to an accredited certification scheme (as defined in rule 3.1(6))\nThe device is installed in a location not normally visible to the public\nNo alteration is made to the fittings of the bells other than the installation of electric contacts and wires\nThe device does not adversely affect the church’s protection against lightning\n(7) The installation of louvres in a belfry as a sound control measure\rAny fixings are made into mortar\r(8) The introduction of peal boards in a location not normally visible to the public\rB3. Clocks # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) Alterations to striking trains to prevent striking at night\rNo part of the clock movement is affected\r(2) The repair or replacement of electrical or electronic clocks manufactured after 1950\rImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture St Swithun, Leonard Stanley, Gloucestershire. A Church of England building on a beautiful day - just to brighten up what might be a rather dry chapter. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.2.2, March 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":3,"href":"/docs/040-health-and-safety/","title":"Health \u0026 Safety","section":"Docs","content":" Health \u0026amp; Safety # Consideration of Health \u0026amp; Safety (H\u0026amp;S) is important for all activities within a tower. This chapter covers the specific aspects of H\u0026amp;S when carrying out routine checks and basic maintenance in the bell chamber, in any tower.\nNote that there will be an Authorising Body for work carried out in a tower. Within the Church of England this will be the Churchwardens and the Parochial Church Council; different arrangements may apply in other jurisdictions – see Formal Requirements. Members of this body may not be familiar with aspects of working on bell installations and the ringers must explain and agree their methods of working. Note that this does not detract from the ringers’ own responsibility for safe working. There is a range of legal requirements must be followed and guidance from the UK Health \u0026amp; Safety Executive is available here (pdf). While many of these requirements are written as if only for those in employment, most also apply to volunteers. We identify here general rules intended to help identify potential hazards and to reduce risks to those involved. We recognise that an appropriate balance must be achieved between making the activity achievable while reducing the level of risk to that which is as low as reasonably possible.\nTopics Relevant to Work in the Bell Chamber # Protecting workers in the bell chamber # Accidental or malicious interference with the bell ropes may present a hazard when work is being carried out in the Bell Chamber. The extent of risk depends on the accessibility of the Ringing Room – this is a particular problem for ground-floor rings. Possible solutions are:\nMaking sure that someone is present in the Ringing Room. This may not be possible unless routine checks and maintenance are being carried out on the same day as general tower housekeeping. Your expected time of completion is known by others and that they check that you return on schedule. Warning notices – an example is shown in the Title Figure (but do not rely on this alone). Hoisting the ropes on a spider. For ground-floor or otherwise accessible ringing rooms this may require a locking system for the spider. Hoisting the ropes up into a secure intermediate room, or even into the bell chamber. Consider security of the building while working upstairs – an open church and tower would enable unauthorised access and could pose risks to those working upstairs. A secured building could prevent access by help in an emergency. Could people upstairs be locked in accidentally by a well-meaning person who was unaware? Arrangements will have to be considered for the building in question, taking account of factors such as other users, access routes and key holders. Working conditions # Bell chambers present significant hazards when moving around. The following points should be noted:\nWhere possible, maintain three points of contact when making a move. Test any footholds before applying weight. Beware of damaged or rotten floorboards. Do not try to carry large and / or heavy items: Pull bags of tools, etc, up by rope rather than carrying them up ladders. Where possible, have assistants to pass items safely. Remember that bells, wheels and ropes will move if force is applied. Be aware of heavy weights. For example, be prepared to take a significant weight if you are supporting a clapper which is about to be removed. Some people may wish to bring a radio or listen to music or other media while working in a tower. This is not recommended (whether with headphones or stand-alone equipment) as people should be able to communicate with each other clearly, particularly if an emergency should arise. Ladders and working at heights # Very few towers were constructed with the working platforms, ladders and guard rails that would be built into a newly designed and constructed building. Not all tower staircases even have handrails. Anyone working in a tower must therefore consider how they will access and manoeuvre in and around the bell frame and installation. Remember that some timber – whether ladders, flooring, or other planks and boarding – may be rotten or decayed so not strong enough to take the weight of one or more people perhaps also with the additional weight of heavy items such as a clapper.\nHazardous materials # Where chemicals are used, the container must be checked for health warnings. For example, white spirit has traditionally been used for cleaning oil and grease spills. But white spirit is harmful to skin and the lungs, and is difficult to dispose of safely. Fortunately, safer materials with low volatile organic compounds (VOC) are now available and should be used instead.\nIf any repainting involves removal of old paint, be aware that this may contain lead. Get advice from an expert.\nAfter work is complete, any paints, chemicals and cleaning products, as well as brushes and rags used to apply them, must be removed from the tower. They should be stored if likely to be reused in appropriate clean dry conditions according to the manufacturers’ instructions, with empty containers and rubbish disposed of safely.\nBird or bat droppings can carry infections such as psittacosis from birds. If extensive, a specialist should be employed for cleaning. See the appendix to this chapter for further information, including the risk of Avian Flu.\nAlthough less likely in a church tower, there may be old asbestos boarding or lagging in towers. As a hint, if plumbing is or has been installed – for example water tanks and pipework – this may well have been lagged with materials that are now recognised as hazardous.\nPersonal protective equipment # Suitable personal protective equipment should be worn when working in the bell chamber:\nA boiler suit or, more often nowadays, reinforced workwear. Non-slip safety boots, with steel toecaps and good ankle support. Protective gloves suitable for the task undertaken. Face mask and eye protection, especially for when sanding or creating dust, cleaning up dust and debris, or drilling above head height. If work is being carried out at various levels, a hard hat should be worn to protect against falling objects; for working under bells a bump cap may be preferable (although this will not protect against falling objects). Examples of gloves, hard hat and bump cap, and safety boots are shown in Figure 1.\nFigure 1: Typical personal protective equipment\nFire protection # Naked flames and other heat sources should never be used in a tower; smoking is forbidden! Also remember that, when cutting or drilling, swarf and the hole being created may become hot. Swarf may even be hot enough to start a fire if it builds up in contact with other flammable substances.\nWorking alone # In general, you should NOT work alone in a bell chamber. The only possible relaxation is if someone else is in the tower and in contact with you: the most likely case is when you are fitting a new rope and the helper is in the ringing room holding the bottom end at the correct height.\nBell chambers offer many opportunities for slips, trips and falls. If one of those led to injury when working alone, how would you summon help? You might have a mobile phone – but that could be damaged or you might be unconscious. Will there even be a reliable signal and do you know who to call in an emergency? You might have told someone what you were doing – but how long would it take them to realise what had happened?\nMoving bells # It may be necessary to swing a bell through a small angle – for example, to listen for noise in the bearings. Remember that it is difficult, even impossible, to stop a moving bell. So be very careful where you place head, hands and feet when a bell is moving, even by a small amount. Make sure that co-workers are aware when a bell is to be moved by someone else.\nCan you work on bells when ‘up’? # In general, you should NOT carry out work in the bell chamber when any bell is ‘up’. Even moving past an ‘up’ bell to reach one that is ‘down’ may pose unacceptable risks.\nThe only likely relaxation is where it is necessary to observe a bell while a second person is ringing it – to check for rope handling problems, for example, or to check if a newly fitted Hastings stay is binding on the quadrant. Based on a risk assessment, the observer MUST position themself out of any danger (including consideration of the possibility of ejection of a broken clapper) and MUST wear ear protection. Most importantly, the observer MUST be able to contact the ringer immediately in case of any problem. Ideally another person should be present in the bell chamber, again well out of the way of danger.\nLighting and electrical equipment # This section concerns the bell chamber. General lighting issues throughout the tower are covered in Running a Tower. A good starting point is for the bell chamber to be well lit with professionally installed lighting. But that is not always available and, in any case, additional lighting may be needed: for example, when working under the bells. In the past, this usually required inspection lamps with trailing mains cables. But the availability of bright, portable, battery powered LED lights removes the risks of tripping and electrocution posed by mains lighting. An LED head torch is invaluable, especially when working in cramped conditions. Examples of an LED head torch and portable light are shown in Figure 2.\nFigure 2: Examples of portable LED lights\nIf there is no natural lighting in the bell chamber, then more than one light source should be always on. It is very easy to break a lamp or for batteries to fail, leaving those in the bell chamber in complete darkness. Remember that it may get dark while you are working in the tower later in the afternoon or evening!\nA general rule is that mains power tools with trailing leads should be avoided in the ringing chamber. If it is essential, a risk assessment must be carried out and great care exercised to make sure that the cables do not get damaged or add yet more trip hazards. Remember that portable battery power tools are available for almost all tasks likely to be carried out by a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nUsed of closed-circuit TV # Some churches have installed closed-circuit TV systems allowing a choice of views of (a) the interior of the church (checking for progress of a wedding) and (b) the bell chamber (useful for open day visits). The latter can also be useful in maintaining contact between the Ringing Room and the Bell Chamber during maintenance work.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Typical warning notice. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 1 Examples of typical protective wear: gloves, hard hat, bump cap, safety boots. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 2 Examples of LED lighting: head torch, portable light. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, November 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":4,"href":"/docs/050-bell-frames/","title":"Bell Frames","section":"Docs","content":" Bell Frames # The bell frame is the structure which supports the bells. It fulfils several main roles:\nIt provides rigidity with an economy of materials and compactness It transmits the vertical and horizontal forces arising from the movement of the bells to the tower walls It provides a fair circle of ropes in the ringing room The design of bell frames has developed over the years as the need changed from simple chiming to full circle ringing, and as newer materials became available. The history is fascinating but outside the remit of this document. Here, we will describe the types of frames most likely to be encountered and the care which a Typical Steeple Keeper can provide in each case.\nThe Title Picture identifies the parts of a timber frame and provides a good starting point. A more complete account of the development of bell frames is given in Chapter 4 of the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers Towers and Bells publication.\nTypes of Bell Frames # Timber frames # Figure 1: Timber frame, showing tie bolts (A) and bearings (B)\nThe frame shown in Figure 1 is dated c1899 but has modern fittings. Note the tie bolts (A) and the ball bearings (B) mounted on the frame-heads. Very early timber frames relied on morticed joints on the braces between the sills and frame-heads but, with shrinkage of the wood, these did not provide sufficient rigidity of the frame. Timber frames now rely on tie bolts for rigidity.\nThe excellent Title Picture shows vertical tie bolts although, unfortunately, they are not labelled. New timber frames are uncommon now but may still be supplied. In many cases, steel girders replace the timber foundation beams.\nComposite frames # Figure 2: Cast iron cross brace on a timber frame\nWith the availability of cast iron, composite frames were introduced with iron braces bolted to timber sills and frame-heads (Figure 2). Several of these are still in use and, if well maintained, provide rigid frames.\nIron and steel frames # Figure 3: Low-sided metal frame\nIron and steel frames may be ‘low-sided’ as shown in Figure 3, following the pattern of a timber frame but with the sill, frame-head and braces replaced by cast side-frames (arrowed) held together with steel girders.\nFigure 4: ‘H’ frame\nAn alternative is the ‘H’ frame, shown in Figure 4. As you can see, the top of the frame is above the bell, with the bearings at half-height. This arrangement is often used where space is limited and the bells are hung in two or more tiers (in this tower the lighter bells are hung in a higher tier) but ‘H’ frames all on one level are not uncommon.\nRadial frames # Figure 5: Radial frame at Washington Cathedral\nFor completeness, we should mention radial frames (Figure 5). The traditional design, with bells swinging at right angles, can result in torsional stress on the tower and this is minimised in the radial design. This design also provides a simple and precise rope circle. This is taken still further at Liverpool Cathedral, where the radial frame is constructed from reinforced concrete. But such frames take up much more space, usually in towers constructed for the purpose, and are unlikely to be encountered by a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nCare of Bell Frames # Well-built bell frames will last for years and it is all too easy to take them for granted. But all frames can be subject to long-term degradation and the Steeple Keeper – who probably has a closer contact with the frame than most – fulfils a vital role in their care.\nTimber frames # As said above, tie bolts are essential for maintaining the rigidity of a timber frame and a check on their tightness must be built into the maintenance schedule, preferably during a dry part of the year when shrinkage of the wood will be greatest.\nWhen tightening the nut on a tie bolt, you should attempt to slacken the nut first. This checks that the nut is not simply rusted into place or has bottomed-out on the thread. If the latter, add washers below the nut. Decay generally results from long-term dampness. In the lower part of the frame, this can be where timber foundation beams enter the tower wall or where there are accumulations of dust or rubbish. The Steeple Keeper must ensure that the areas around all timbers are kept clean with no obstacles to ventilation. Beetle attack is seldom found in dry timbers.\nDecay in the top members of the frame is usually due to a leaking roof or rain driving in through the louvres. This is a matter for the church authorities.\nBirds, usually pigeons or jackdaws, must be excluded ruthlessly from towers as their nests encourage damp and harbour fungus and insects. Note that Death Watch Beetles may be found in the dead hedgerow sticks favoured by jackdaws for their nests.\nAny cases of decay or beetle attack will require specialist treatment.\nIron and steel frames # Metal frames require little maintenance, although checks should be made for loose or missing fastenings (usually a rare occurrence). However, these frames need to be cleaned and repainted every 10 or 20 years. This is not a simple job, and the use of a Bell Hanger should be considered. Many girders may be located close to the walls, making their outer surface difficult to access, and vulnerable points where girders meet the tower walls may require the use of ladders or scaffolds.\nLightning protection on metal frames # Lightning strikes on high buildings like church towers are not unusual, and all towers should be protected by properly installed and regularly checked lighting conductors, which take the charge to earth (electrically and literally). While this is not the responsibility of the ringers, there is a \u0026lsquo;connection\u0026rsquo;, in that metal bell frames must be bonded to the lightning conductor system. An example is shown arrowed in Figure 6, where the bond is to the bottom of one of the main support girders. Details may vary on other installations.\nFigure 6: Bonding of a metal bell frame to the church lighting conductor\nThe reason for bonding is that lightning will take the path of least resistance to earth. For a strike on an unbonded metal frame, that path may be down damp ropes or clock hammer linkages. This could result in fires, damage to masonry, electric shocks and damage to electrical equipment in the church.\nA properly installed bond should not deteriorate but, as the Steeple Keeper is likely to see the bell frame more often than other church officials, it would be prudent to identify the site of the bonding point and include a check on it in the maintenance schedule. Any problem should, of course, be reported immediately to the church authorities.\nA more detailed description of lightning protection and bell frames can be found in this downloadable PDF file. Image Credits # Figure Details Title Picture The parts of a typical timber bell frame. (Drawing © the late J G M Scott, used with permission from his family) 1 Timber frame at Thame, Oxfordshire. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Stephen Hoar) 2 Cast iron cross brace in the composite frame by John Sully of Stogumber at Almondsbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Low-sided metal frame (Whitechapel 1996) at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 ‘H’ frame (John Taylor \u0026amp; Co, 1903) at Long Ashton, Somerset. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Will Rogers) 5 Radial Frame (Mears \u0026amp; Stainbank, 1962) at Washington Cathedral, USA. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Lian von Wantoch) 6 Bonding of the bell frame to the lightning conductor at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.1.1, February 2024\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":5,"href":"/docs/060-headstocks/","title":"Headstocks","section":"Docs","content":" Headstocks # A headstock is one of the major structural elements of any bell installation, with each bell being hung from a headstock mounted on bearings on the bell frame. Each headstock carries the full weight of the bell during its rotation through just over a full circle, so they must be maintained in good condition.\nSeveral other major parts of the installation are attached to the headstock:\nDetails of how the wheel and stay are attached will be found in the relevant chapters. Details of various ways in which the bell is attached are given in this chapter. We also include here details of the attachment of the gudgeons, which fit into the bearings to form the axle about which the bell rotates. Headstocks were traditionally made of timber but, since the early 20th century, metal has been the most common choice. For the former, elm was frequently chosen because of its durability, but other hardwoods have been used. Metal headstocks can be cast iron or fabricated from steel.\nTimber Headstocks # There are many possible types of timber headstock. Mainly, they depend on whether the bell is hung from canons or whether the canons have been removed (or the bell cast with a flat top). Further details on canons can be found in Bells.\nIn early designs, the gudgeons were inserted into bosses on the headstock bound with iron hoops to prevent splitting. This is not a satisfactory arrangement and other methods have been developed. The most common is for the gudgeons to be clamped or fitted to iron or steel plates which are then secured by bolts passing up through the headstock. We will see an example of this in Care of Headstocks below.\nBell hung from canons # Figure 1: Bell with canons mounted on timber headstock\nFigure 1 shows a bell (A) supported from its canons (just visible at B) by straps (C) bolted to plates on the headstock. Note that a slot is needed on the headstock to accommodate the canons – this can be a point of weakness.\nBell hung without canons # A bell without canons – either after their removal or cast as a flat-top bell – will be attached to a timber headstock using bolts passing through the crown of the bell.\nFigure 2: Bell drilled for support; canons present but not used\nFigure 2 shows an unusual variation on this. The canons are present but are not used for support. This is provided by the long bolts (A) passing through the crown. This is an unusual timber equivalent of a clapper-retaining headstock – of which more later.\nThis view also shows (at B) the top of the crown staple bolt, supporting the clapper, the nuts (C) supporting the gudgeon plate and a better view of the extent to which the headstock is slotted to accommodate the canons.\nMetal Headstocks # With due respect to history, metal headstocks are preferable to timber where possible. They are more stable and rigid than a timber headstock and provide a more positive attachment of the gudgeons, ensuring that they remain accurately in line. The main types of metal headstocks which you may find are:\nCast metal – usually cast iron, sometimes cast steel. Fabricated steel. Canon-retaining – designed to allow canons to be retained on bells of historic value. Cast metal # Figure 3: Cast metal headstock\nFigure 3 shows a typical cast iron design, one from the former Whitechapel foundry. Note the bolts (A) supporting the bell (two on each side of the headstock) – these attach to part of the headstock casting, avoiding the need for the long strapping or bolts usually required for a timber headstock. Also note the crown staple nut (B) on top of the headstock. Metal headstocks are shorter in height than a comparable timber one and the crown staple bolt can be shorter and easier to handle when being removed or replaced.\nA further point visible on Figure 3 is that metal headstocks can be shaped in order to ‘tuck up’ the bell. That means raising the centre of gravity of the bell compared to the axis of rotation.\nThe position of the line joining the gudgeons relative to the bell is of great importance as it determines the time of swing of the bell. It is necessary for ease of handling that these times are graded within each ring of bells. It is much easier to design this with the use of metal headstocks to vary the tucking up of each bell.\nThe dynamics of a ringing bell is a fascinating subject which is unfortunately beyond the scope of this document.\nFabricated metal # Figure 4: Fabricated metal headstock\nA fabricated metal headstock provides a cheaper and perfectly acceptable option for lighter bells. The example in Figure 4 is a hollow rectangular steel beam with various attachments welded on. Note particularly the bracket (A) holding the gudgeon, allowing the bell to be tucked up.\nMetal canon-retaining headstocks # Figure 5: Metal canon-retaining headstock\nAt one time, canons were accidentally (or deliberately) broken or cut off the crown and the bell was then secured to the headstock with bolts passing through the crown. The historical value of canons is now recognised and such bells can continue in use with canon-retaining headstocks – an unusual timber example of which was seen in Figure 2.\nNowadays, canon-retaining headstocks are often made of fabricated steel, as shown in Figure 5, although some are castings. This design in Figure 5 is attractive because the canons are reasonably visible. Some designs obscure the view of the canons – which is unfortunate for an item which has been retained because of its historical value.\nCare of Headstocks # Mainly because of its role in supporting the bell, a Typical Steeple Keeper is limited to just basic checks on the headstock. While these are vital, the resolution of any problems identified will almost always need to be left to a bell hanger, defined here as an individual or company having suitable equipment and experience in bell installations, and meeting the regulatory and insurance requirements to carry out such work.\nFor those within the jurisdiction of the Church of England, the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules also need to be considered. All the relevant items in List A (items that a parish can undertake without external consultation) specify “No bell is lifted from its bearings”. List B (items that may be undertaken without a faculty provided the archdeacon is consulted and has given written authorisation) allows more freedoms ranging from “lifting of a bell to allow the cleaning of bearings and housings” to “like for like replacement of steel or cast iron headstocks”. Interpretation of these Rules can be difficult and your Diocesan Bells Adviser should be able to help.\nCare of timber headstocks # An inherent challenge with a timber headstock is that wood is not a stable material: it can change size with changes in temperature and humidity, and it can degrade with time. The result is that fastenings may work loose and key items (mainly the gudgeons) may lack dimensional stability. The need for a slot to accommodate canons may also weaken the headstock, leading to cracking.\nAs a Typical Steeple Keeper, you may not be able to rectify all of these problems but you should be able to recognise when they occur.\nAs mentioned earlier, the fastenings for the wheel and stay are covered in those chapters. Bell nuts # For a bell with canons, these are the nuts at the top of the straps connected to the canons; for a flat topped bell, they are the nuts at the end of the long bolts through the crown of the bell, passing either through the headstock or up to a plate over the top of the headstock.\nProcedure to check tightness of bell nuts\nWork on each nut (usually four) separately. Working diagonally, check the tightness of the nut by slackening it a small amount then tightening. (This checks that the nut is not rusted solid.) Additional check for bell with canons # If canons are present, the bell may not fit snugly underneath the headstock and may move, either because of rough handling or incorrect tightening of the nuts. This can be checked as follows:\nProcedure to check bell hangs true on headstock\nTie off rope to remove its weight. If the bell is fitted with an independent clapper staple, slightly loosen the clapper staple nut on top of the headstock (B on Figure 2). With a long spirit level, check the lip of the bell is horizontal (with plain bearings, this may require a nudge to settle the bell at bottom centre). Using the spirit level, and taking care not to move the bell, check that headstock is vertical. If this is not the case, note the direction the bell is out of true. Attempt to correct this by CAREFULLY slackening the bell nuts on one side and tightening those on the other. Re-check and repeat step 6 if necessary. If this is not working, contact a Bell Hanger. Finally, re-tighten the clapper staple nut. Gudgeons # If your tower has old timber headstocks with the gudgeons inserted directly into the headstock, you have an interesting – but not very reliable – museum piece. For any problems here, you need to talk to a Bell Hanger.\nFigure 6: Attachment of gudgeon to a timber headstock\nA more common arrangement is shown in Figure 6, where the gudgeon is clamped to a plate beneath the headstock by bolts secured by nuts on top of the headstock – see Figure 2(C). Figure 6 clearly shows a recent restoration, judging by the finish on the metal parts and the headstock. Many examples of timber headstocks will not look as smart as this.\nYou will need to check the nuts securing the gudgeon plate for tightness following the procedure for bell bolts – work diagonally, loosen slightly then tighten. An indication of loose bolts might be revealed by checking the gap between the plate and the headstock (arrowed on Figure 6). This might be more noticeable when the bell is ‘up’ and hanging on the gudgeon clamps but that is NOT the time to be inspecting details on bell fittings. In any case, the gap may be difficult to determine on an old, rough headstock.\nMetalwork # The straps, threaded ends and nuts supporting the bell will all corrode with time, with the threads probably being most vulnerable. You should inspect all metalwork and identify any items badly affected. This is not something that a Typical Steeple Keeper can rectify but you will play a valuable role in identify the problem and referring it to an expert for a second opinion and, eventually, to a Bell Hanger for replacement.\nRot and beetles # Old timber headstocks may suffer from rot (particularly if the louvres in the Bell Chamber are not weather-proof. Headstocks, especially if damp, may also be attacked by Death Watch Beetle (holes of 2mm diameter or slightly larger) or Furniture beetle (smaller holes). You should check for early signs of any damage and report any beetle infestation to the church authorities. Even if damage is not detected, a preventative measure is to treat headstocks every ten to fifteen years with wood preservative. This is a job for a specialist.\nThe position on Faculty Jurisdiction Rules within the Church of England is not clear regarding the treatment of headstocks. List B includes “The treatment of timber bell frames with preservative or insecticide materials” but does not mention headstocks. The lack of reference to headstocks implies, by omission, that a faculty is required to treat these, which seems inconsistent. As always in difficult cases, consult your Diocesan Bells Adviser. Care of metal headstocks # Metal headstocks present far fewer challenges than timber ones: they are dimensionally stable and the material does not suffer degradation, apart from possible rusting.\nBell nuts # These should be checked for tightness in the same was as for timber headstocks – work diagonally, loosen slightly then tighten.\nGudgeons # These must be firmly fixed, either on a bracket attached to a fabricated headstock (A on Figure 4) or passing through a hollow cast metal headstock and secured by a bolt or riveted. It may be possible to detect a problem by swinging the bell through a small angle and looking and listening for anything unusual. But realistically, the bell will need to be removed from the headstock for a thorough inspection and possible repair. This is certainly a job for a Bell Hanger and would fall under List B of the Church of England Faculty Jurisdiction Rules.\nPainting # A fabricated headstock which has been galvanised should not normally require painting but, as for metal frames, cast metal headstocks will require cleaning and painting every 10 to 20 years. This should be done by a Bell Hanger, who will understand the need to avoid damage to the bells and other parts of the installation. This could be combined with painting of a metal frame.\nImage Credits # Figure Details 1 Ampton, Suffolk. Timber headstock and bell supported from canons with straps. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Neal Dodge) 2 Pakenham, Suffolk. Bell supported by drilling through crown; canons present but not used. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Neal Dodge) 3 Thornbury, Glos. Cast metal headstock. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Hawkesbury, Glos. Fabricated metal headstock on the Tenor bell. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: David Bagley) 5 Elkstone, Glos. Metal canon-retaining headstock. (Photo: Simon Ridley) 6 Pakenham, Suffolk. Attachment of a gudgeon to a timber headstock. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Neal Dodge) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.1, September 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":6,"href":"/docs/070-wheels/","title":"Wheels","section":"Docs","content":" Wheels # The basic design of bell wheels has changed little over the past 200 years. The arrangement of the spokes is both traditional and functional, although there may be some variations. A wheel is made in two parts to allow it to be fitted around the headstock. This has the bonus of making it easier to manoeuvre the parts up to the bell chamber.\nNaming of Parts # A typical wheel is constructed from eleven different components, some with different historic names. Figure 1 shows a typical wheel, viewed as it would be seen with the bell ‘down’. The names used in this chapter, with some alternatives in brackets, are identified on Figure 1 as follows:\nFigure 1: Parts of a bell wheel\nA.\tTransom (Long Spoke, Transome, Long Wheel Spoke)\nB.\tMain Spokes (High Rail)\nC.\tTop Spokes (High Spoke)\nD.\tMeeting Spokes (Meeting Rail)\nE.\tBottom Spokes (Leg Spoke)\nF.\tEye Piece\nG.\tHalving Bolts\nH.\tShroud (Cheeks, Shrouding, Rave, Siding)\nThe bell rope enters the wheel through a Garter Hole near the Top Spoke on the ground pulley side of the wheel, the exact location depending on the position of the ground pulley. (Ground Pulleys are discussed in Rope Routes.) This is shown in detail on Figure 2 as follows:\nFigure 2: Details around the garter hole\nA.\tShroud (Cheeks, Shrouding, Rave, Siding)\nB.\tSole (Sole Plate)\nC.\tGarter Hole (Fillet Hole, Gart-hole)\nD.\tWheel Bobbins (Half Bobbins)\nE.\tRope\nConstruction # Traditionally, bell wheels are constructed from three different types of wood. The spokes are made from oak, the sole from ash and the shrouds from elm. Nowadays, however, shrouds are usually made from marine plywood. Shrouds were formally nailed to the sole but there is a tendency for the nails to rust and nowadays small non-ferrous or stainless-steel screws are used. Sections of shrouding are keyed together by a thin piece of wood, termed a ‘Feather’. Historically, iron feathers were used but these are subject to rusting, causing the end of the shrouding to split.\nThe joint between the two parts of the wheel lies between the Transome (A) and the Meeting Spokes (D) with the two parts secured by the Halving Bolts (G) – all shown on Figure 1.\nAs shown on Figure 2, Wheel Bobbins (D) protect the rope from wear as it emerges from the Garter Hole (C). Within the wheel, the rope is tied off around the two Main Spokes (B on Figure 1) – this figure shows how the edges of the spokes may be chamfered to avoid damage to the rope. (The tying off of a rope can just be seen on the bell in the background of Figure 3.) Further information is provided in Ropes and Rope Routes.\nFigure 3: Fastenings to a steel headstock (A), and an angle brace (B)\nA wheel is usually attached to a wooden Headstock by long bolts through the main spokes and the headstock; cast iron or fabricated steel headstocks will usually have provision for a bracket to attach the wheel. An example is shown at (A) on Figure 3. That figure also shows at (B) a steel Angle Brace bolted (it may be screwed) diagonally on the inner face of the wheel to further strengthen the wheel. Wheels fitted to wooden headstocks may have Wheel Stays. These are metal rods fitted between wheel and headstock to brace the wheel (arrowed on Figure 4).\nFigure 4: Wheel stays (arrowed)\nChecks Required # Wheels are not for Climbing On\nWheels are strong in terms of their designed use, but weak if subjected to a sideways force. Never use a wheel as a climbing frame when moving around the bell frame. They are expensive items to replace.\nThe complexity of a wheel and the materials used mean that the amount of maintenance able to be carried out by a Typical Steeple Keeper is limited. But the regular checks described below are essential to spot (and possibly rectify) problems, and to identify problems needing assistance from a Bell Hanger before they become critical.\nWheel not running true # An initial check is to swing the bell (when down) through a small angle. Any obvious sideways movement of the rim of the wheel shows a wheel that is not running true. If this is substantial it could lead to the rope slipping wheel.\nThe cause may be some looseness in the fastenings, or possibly a bent wheel stay. The further checks described here may resolve the problem. If not, this is a job for a Bell Hanger.\nDamage to the wood # Any evidence of rot or beetle attack must be addressed immediately. While there are contractors who provide this service, the use of a Bell Hanger is to be preferred.\nGeneral advice is that wood should be treated with a preservative about every 10 years. Bearing in mind that the wheels need removal to do this thoroughly, the use of a Bell Hanger is preferable. It may be possible to combine this with a major overhaul.\nLoose fastenings # All fastenings on a wheel need to be checked regularly for tightness. This is particularly important for those involving wooden components, which may shrink with variations of temperature and humidity. A Typical Steeple Keeper should be competent to carry out these checks and any required tightening.\nRemember that the most reliable way of checking tightness is to first loosen the nut and then re-tighten. This ensures (a) that the nut is not just rusted in position and (b) that the thread has not bottomed out. Items to be checked are:\nThe halving bolts. These are often coach bolts, with the nuts underneath the transom, and easily missed. The fastenings between wheel and headstock, both on the wheel and headstock sides. Fastenings holding any reinforcing bars strengthening the wheels. For a wooden headstock, fastenings attaching wheel stays, if present. It may be prudent to prepare a check list of all fastenings, to ensure none are missed. Marking checked fastenings with chalk is another possibility.\nWear and damage # Items to be covered here are:\nShroud # Check for any damage. It is not unknown for contractors to cause accidental damage to a shroud while carrying out other work in the tower. If shrouds are nailed to the sole, check for rusting or missing nails. Check for splitting at joints between sections of shroud, possibly resulting from rusting of iron feathers. A skilled woodworker may be able to rectify any problems found but, considering the complexity of a wheel, and the cost of a new one, the Steeple Keeper should consider consulting a Bell Hanger in all but very minor cases of damage.\nSole # The sole is usually secured to the spokes by countersunk screws. These must be checked for tightness. If any part of a screw is proud it will rapidly wear the rope.\nBobbins and garter hole # These are unlikely to cause problems but should be checked to ensure that the rope path is smooth. Careful use of sandpaper should solve any problems.\nWheel stays # Wheel stays, as used to support the wheel with a wooden headstock, are relatively fragile and can easily be bent. In the extreme, this can cause the wheel to run untrue. If necessary, they can be carefully bent back to a straight line. If in doubt, contact a Bell Hanger.\nImage Credits # Figure Details 1 Wheel annotated to show component parts. (Photo: Graham Clifton, Whites of Appleton) 2 Details of garter hole and bobbins. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Showing bracket between wheel and cast iron headstock, and angle brace to strengthen the wheel. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Wheel stays on a wooden headstock at Borden, Kent. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the CCCBR Photographic Competition. Photo: Christopher J Cooper) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, December 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":7,"href":"/docs/080-stays-and-sliders/","title":"Stays \u0026 Sliders","section":"Docs","content":" Stays \u0026amp; Sliders # A Stay is a mechanism which allows a bell to be ‘parked’ (the ringing term is ‘Set’) with its mouth upwards. This is achieved by the stay engaging with a Slider, which allows the bell to go just past the point of balance in either direction.\nThe stay also acts as a ‘safety valve’. It is designed to break if the bell is set too violently, avoiding damage to other, more expensive, parts of the installation.\nIf the stay breaks the bell will continue to rotate, taking the rope upwards. Learners MUST be taught that this could happen and that, if it does, they must let go of the rope immediately. In this Chapter we will:\ndescribe various designs of stays and sliders, including some which may not often be encountered, explain how the stay interacts with the various types of sliders, set out the routine checks and maintenance needed to keep the installation operating smoothly, and identify cases where a Typical Steeple Keeper should seek expert advice. We have tried to separate the discussion on stays and sliders but this is not always possible because of the interaction between them. Please bear with us on this. Stays # The stay is fitted to the headstock on the end opposite to the wheel. There are various ways to attach a stay, depending on the type of headstock. The three main configurations are shown in Figure 1, and further details are given in the following sections.\nFigure 1: Typical types of stay and their fitting\nIn many (but not all) installations the stay is secured to the headstock using coach bolts. The heads of the bolts (arrowed on Figure 1) are next to the stay and the square section under the head of the bolt bites into the wood of the stay to secure the bolt.\nFigure 1a shows a curved stay bolted to a wooden headstock. This is likely to be found only on old installations. The curve is designed to put the end of the stay on the centreline of the headstock. Figure 1b shows a straight stay bolted to the side of a wooden headstock, although the same arrangement could be used for a hollow metal headstock. Figure 1c shows a straight stay in a metal ‘socket headstock’. This shows a ‘Hastings stay’ but the same arrangement is often used for a straight stay like the one in Figure 1b. A stay is made of straight-grained Ash timber, thickest at the top fixing or where it exits a socket (Figure 1c) and tapering towards the end which contacts the slider. This provides maximum strength at the point of maximum stress. You may, however, find plenty of stays without tapers.\nFigure 2: Profile of a curved stay\nTraditionally, it is likely that curved stays will have been steam-bent. Nowadays, they will be cut from a piece of Ash wide enough to provide the correct profile. An example is shown in Figure 2. If possible, the direction of the grain should follow the longest finished length.\nFixing to wooden headstocks # Figure 3: Stays attached to wooden headstocks\nThe stay will always be attached on the side of a wooden headstock, usually by bolts, arrowed on Figure 3a. In older installations, the top bolt may be replaced by a U-shaped fastening (arrowed on Figure 3b) secured with nuts and washers on the far side of the headstock.\nFixing to metal headstocks # Socket type # Figure 4: Socket fitting on a metal headstock\nA metal headstock may incorporate a socket to accommodate the stay (Figure 4). This keeps the stay on the centre line of the headstock but it requires careful fitting.\nFigure 5: Position of bolting on a socket stay\nFigure 5 is a composite showing both sides of a socket headstock. Here, the bolt heads are on side A, with holes large enough to allow the bolt head to be in contact with the stay. Being coach bolts, the square section under the head will dig into the wood to stop the bolt turning as it is tightened. The holes on side B are smaller – just big enough to take the shaft of the bolt. Washers and nuts are then screwed on to side B and tightened to draw the un-tapered side of the stay against side B. The stay must be sized to provide clearance on the other three sides of the socket.\nFixing on the side of a headstock # Nowadays the need for a stay to be on the centre line of a metal headstock is not considered essential (except where Hastings stays are fitted – see later). This is because metal headstocks tend to be narrower than wooden ones, and the position of the slider can be adjusted more easily in a modern installation. Many stays will now be found bolted on the side of the headstock. Figure 6 shows the stay (A), a hollow cast headstock (B) and the stay bolts (C) – note the heads of the coach bolts.\nFigure 6: Stay mounted on side of a metal headstock\nSliders # When the bell is mouth-up, the stay engages with the slider, which allows the bell to move just past the vertical position in either direction. Many installations use a traditional design, although the ‘Hastings’ design – and some others – may be encountered.\nTraditional design # Figure 7: Raised bell with a traditional stay and slider\nThe main parts are shown in Figure 7. The slider (A) is located under the bell. There is a pivot (B) on the wheel side and the other end sits on a runner board (not visible). As the bell nears top centre the stay (C) pushes the slider between two end stops on the runner board – this is shown in Figure 8.\nFigure 8: Operation of a traditional stay and slider\nThe slider is usually curved. This is because the pivot must be below the rim of the wheel, while it is usually convenient to locate the runner board higher on the frame. In some cases, the runner board may be located at the same height as the pivot, in which case a straight slider will be used. This will require a longer stay.\nThe pivot may be anything between an L-shaped iron rod hammered into a wooden frame, to a pin on an angled plate bolted to the frame. The slider has a hole which locates on the pivot. There will usually be some arrangement to stop the slider jumping off the pivot, for example a bolt or a split pin through a hole in the pivot. Whatever the arrangement, the slider must be able to move smoothly on the pivot.\nIn some cases, there is no means of retaining the slider on the pivot. This may be satisfactory if the installation is well-maintained and the slider moves smoothly – and it does allow the slider to be removed easily when working under the bell – but it does introduce a risk.\nBoth the tip of a curved stay on a wooden headstock and the stay on a metal socket headstock lie on the centre line of the headstock. In this case the centre of the runner board will be below the centre of the headstock. For a side-mounted stay, the runner board will usually be offset by about half the width of the headstock. A curved stay can be replaced with a straight one if the runner board can be moved but, depending on the design of the frame, this may be difficult or impossible. This is a job for a Bell Hanger. Hastings stay # This mechanism, invented by Rev Edward Hastings Horne, has been fitted to some installations by John Taylor and Co between 1890 and 1960. They will still fit Hastings stays if required or where space considerations mandate them. More information on Hastings stays is given in Further Reading.\nFigure 9: Hastings stay showing dingler and quadrant\nIn this system, shown in Figure 9, the slider under the bell is replaced by a metal quadrant (B) whose curvature matches the arc described by the tip of the stay. The ends of the quadrant bend out in opposite directions to form an elongated S-shape. The stay (A) has a pivoted metal peg, usually called a dingler (C), at its tip and the bends at either end of the quadrant direct the dingler to stop blocks on either side of the quadrant. The video in Figure 10 shows a Hastings stay in operation.\nFigure 10: Hastings stay in operation\nGillett \u0026amp; Johnston system # Gillett \u0026amp; Johnston sometimes used a system, shown in Figure 11, similar in some ways to the Hastings stay.\nFigure 11: Gillett \u0026amp; Johnston system with straight track\nIn this system, a Traveller (B) moves along a track (A). In this example, the track is straight, although it may be curved to match the arc of the moving stay. The stay pushes a tab (C) on top of the traveller along the track until it hits the stop block at either end. This avoids the need for a dingler on the end of the stay, but the length of the stay is critical – it must be long enough to engage the tab on the slider but without fouling the track.\nSteel stays \u0026amp; pendulum sliders # A very few light rings are fitted with steel stays, presumably on the argument that the bells are so light that there is no problem in not relying on the “weakest link” safeguard of a breakable stay. This is the case at Frenchay, Gloucestershire, which has six bells with a tenor of 217kg (just over 4cwt). The frame comprises a grillage of steel girders with the bearings on top of the frame and ‘pendulum’ sliders hung below.\nFigure 12: Steel stay in socket headstock (a) and pendulum sliders below (b)\nFigure 12a shows the steel stay in the socket headstock with supporting wooden blocks either side. 12b shows a pair of sliders with one bell set (on the right). The sliders are equipped with small springs to soften the impact as the bell is set – or over-pulled.\nSome light rings with traditional wooden stays may also be fitted with pendulum sliders.\nMini rings # Mini-rings are becoming common, both as fixed and portable installations – see here. Many of them have a tenor around 4.5kg (10lb) and these dispense with stays and sliders altogether. To set at hand stroke, the bell is allowed, under control, to continue past the balance, taking the rope up to the height of a normal back stroke set. These bells are light enough to be pulled back to the hand stroke set position before ringing.\nRoutine Checking # Except where noted, any actions arising from these checks can be rectified by a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nGeneral procedure for all types # The checking interval must be judged on the usage of the bells – both the number of learners being taught and the possibility of visitors finding difficulty with unfamiliar bells. Good ringers can recognise the early stages of cracking by noticing that a bell seems ‘soft’ when setting. With the bell ‘Down’, firmly push the end of the stay in both directions. Any movement will indicate loose stay bolts. Any springiness might indicate cracking. Tighten the stay bolts if necessary and check again. If cracking is noticed, the stay needs to be replaced – see Broken Stay. If the nut on the clapper crown staple bolt becomes loose, the clapper may drop slightly and hit the slider. This condition would normally have been detected in the routine checks of the clappers, but it may occur rapidly, particularly if the nut is not securely locked. This will usually result in a knocking noise which may be heard even from the ringing room. It can be confirmed by tell-tale marks on the top of the slider. The urgent remedial action to deal with loose crown staple bolts is covered in Clappers. Even if there is no suggestion of cracking or loose bolts, the stay bolts should be loosened and re-tightened periodically to check that the nuts have not rusted solid. This is particularly important for a socket headstock, where trapped dampness may cause the bottom of the stay to soften or rot. Trying to remove a rusted nut in this case may cause the head of the coach bolt to turn in the wood, making the bolt very difficult to remove.\nAdditional for traditional design # Clean the surfaces of the runner board and underside of the slider of any dirt or debris. Accumulations of oil or grease may suggest a problem with the bell bearings – see Bearings for rectification measures. Check for wear at the pivot pin (this would be unusual) and check that retaining locknuts (if fitted) on the pin are tight. Check the end stops on the runner board for damage, usually caused by prolonged poor handling. It may be possible to repair these using a competent local carpenter but, in extreme cases, this is a job for a Bell Hanger. (The longer-term solution is to improve the training of all ringers.) The surface of the running board should not require lubrication but, if necessary, use graphite powder. Do not use beeswax or furniture polish as this can attract dirt particles. Finally, check that the slider is moving smoothly and easily on the runner board, without sticking or scraping noises. Additional for Hastings stays # Check the dingler for free movement and tightness of the fixing screws. With extended use, the holes in a dingler may wear, leading to looseness of the peg. If needed, John Taylor and Co can provide replacement dingler assemblies. Check the edge of the dingler and the track for any signs of rubbing. This could result from incorrect setting up of the stay or looseness of the stay bolts. If necessary, reset the stay as described in Broken Stay. Apart from these points, a Hastings installation requires NO maintenance. The quadrant should not be lubricated, as this encourages a build-up of dirt. Additional for Gillett sliders # Check that the track is clean and the traveller moves smoothly. Lubricate the track sparingly with light oil. This is necessary because the frictional drag on the traveller is greater compared to that of the dingler on a Hastings stay. Additional for steel stays and pendulum sliders # Check tightness of all fastenings. Check free and smooth motion of the pendulums, lubricating sparingly as required. Broken Stay # A stay functions in a similar way to a safety valve or electrical fuse: it protects the installation from unusual occurrences. If a tower suffers from repeated broken stays, and if the stays have been properly maintained, then the fault lies most likely in the way that learners have been taught. For ringers, a broken stay will be an unexpected and possibly alarming event. As Steeple Keeper, you will be under pressure to get it fixed and you may be inundated with advice from ‘instant experts’. Your responsibility now is to keep calm and to plan your course of action, taking account of your own experience (and possible limitations) and the availability of materials, services, and advice from reliable experts. The main steps are:\nYour immediate actions Procuring a replacement stay Fitting the replacement Checking the work Immediate actions # Do not enter the bell chamber alone. Check the slider and surrounding equipment for any damage caused by the impact and the flying remains of the stay. Remove the part of the stay still attached to the headstock, keeping all bolts, nuts, and washers. For a side-mounted stay, mark the side of the headstock where the stay was mounted. (This may be obvious from markings on the headstock but better safe than sorry.) Do not dispose of the broken parts of the stay. A stay made of good quality straight-grained ash will usually break cleanly across the stay. With care, the two parts can be pushed together and will provide a template for making the replacement. This is critical for a curved stay as there is no ‘standard’ profile. The rope will have wound itself around the wheel: it may even have come off the wheel and be wound around the headstock or gudgeon. Pull the rope up into the bell chamber and check it for any damage, cleaning off any dirt or grease as necessary. Treat this like fitting a new rope – this will make it easier to reinstate the rope if the rope route is complex, possibly including a rope guide. Procuring a replacement stay # Several options are available here and the choice requires careful consideration.\nIn the last few years many ash trees have started to suffer from \u0026ldquo;ash die back\u0026rdquo; - a disease that leads to the death of the trees affected. Many ash trees are therefore being felled and ringers may anticipate plenty of ash being available for stays. However, one of the problems with the diseased ash is that it becomes very brittle and is therefore useless for making stays. Great caution is also required when felling diseased trees. Affected wood becomes marked from the centre with dark brown and black markings. Obtaining a replacement from the original bell hanger # The simplest and lowest risk option is to obtain a replacement stay from the original bell hanger. This is not the cheapest option but bear the following points in mind:\nThe wood will be Ash, of guaranteed quality. The stay will have been made using the correct tools, by qualified wood workers covered by insurance against any accidents. It will be made to records held by the original bell hanger. The stay should be delivered with fitting instructions, identifying at least the straight edge to be fitted against the headstock. You have a claim if the stay is not to standard. Obtaining a replacement from another bell hanger # The original bell hanger may no longer exist. If they have gone out of business recently, it may be worth checking if another bell hanger has taken over the business – and any records.\nIf records are not available, and if you have the parts of the original stay, then a bell hanger should be able to produce a replacement using the old stay as a template. The standard of work should still meet the standard expected of an original bell hanger.\nA word of caution here. How certain are you that the broken stay was of the correct size? And if this has happened in the past, is it possible that the size has gradually crept up because of over-caution about removing too much material? A badly over-sized stay is not doing its duty as a ‘safety valve’. If you do not have an adequate template, or if there is any doubt about the size, then you should arrange for a bell hanger to visit to assess the situation and take any required measurements.\nMaking a replacement stay yourself # Within the Church of England, ‘replacement of bell stays’ appears in List A of the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules. This means that it can be undertaken without external consultation but the responsibility still lies with the church authorities. Any decision they make will rely on your advice and their trust in you. (The situation will be similar in other jurisdictions). That is a heavy burden. If you really believe you can undertake this, ideally with the support of an Experienced Steeple Keeper, then go ahead. But you must consider:\nDo you have access to Ash of the required quality? Do you have access to the required wood working tools and are you experienced in their use? Do you understand all the Health \u0026amp; Safety implications of such work? Do you understand that if ‘your’ stay breaks and causes injury to a ringer, you might be held responsible for some or all of that injury if the workmanship was seen to be faulty? We will not provide further information on how to make a replacement stay on the assumption that anyone undertaking this work will be fully aware of what is required.\nRepairing the broken stay # Don’t even think about it.\nFitting the replacement # In what follows, we assume that replacement stay is an exact copy of the original, including the bolt holes. If the bolt holes have not been drilled, they will need to be marked up from the headstock and then drilled, preferably using a pillar drill to ensure they are at right angles to the flat side of the stay. If you do not feel capable of doing this, you should either call in the bell hanger or seek advice from an Expert Steeple Keeper. Assuming the replacement stay has been made to the required standard, a Typical Steeple Keeper should be capable of fitting it. As always when working in a bell chamber, an assistant is essential – and very useful. The Steeple Keeper is making a useful contribution here: the Bell Hanger is saved a journey to carry out a short job.\nSide-mounted stays # Procedure for a side-mounted stay\nMount the stay on the correct side of the headstock. This is why you marked the correct side when you removed the broken part. You did do that, didn’t you? Mount the un-tapered side against the headstock. Whoever made the stay should have marked that side. If you are using coach bolts, it helps to tap the head gently with a hammer to start the square section under the head biting into the wood. If you are using a bolt with a hexagonal head, you will need a second spanner to hold the head while you tighten the nut. This is where the assistant is useful. Socket headstocks # Procedure for a socket headstock\nMount the stay with the un-tapered side against the side of the socket with the smaller holes (Side B on Figure 5) and insert the bolts through the side with the larger holes (Side A on Figure 5). Coach bolts are essential here, as it will be impossible to reach a hexagonal bolt head with a spanner – probably even with a socket spanner. If coach bolts are replaced on an older socket headstock a problem may be encountered as some metric coach bolts have a larger diameter head than the imperial ones they replace. This means that the larger head may not fit through the hole in the headstock. The diameter of the bolt head can be reduced if you have access to a lathe or a grinder, but do not remove more material than necessary. The new stay should slide easily into the socket. If there is any indication of binding, remove the stay. Any areas that were binding should be obvious and can be carefully trimmed using a plane or wood file. Finally add washers and tighten the nuts on Side B. DO NOT under any circumstances attempt to force an over-sized stay into the socket. This can over-stress the socket and may break it, especially if it is made of cast iron. This does happen – see Figure 13. Figure 13: Cast iron headstock broken by over-sized stay\nHastings stays # The procedure for fitting a Hastings stay is similar to that for a plain socket stay except for the need to replace the dingler assembly. If unfamiliar with this, you should seek advice from a Bell Hanger or Expert Steeple Keeper.\nChecking the work # This will involve witnessing the operation of the stay and slider when the bell is rung up. This is potentially dangerous and you MUST take the following precautions:\nPlace yourself in a position where you can see the stay and slider but are not in the direct line in the unlikely event of the clapper breaking. A further person is in the Ringing Room ready to raise the bell. Ideally, a third person is with you in the Bell Chamber. Either tie the clapper, or all persons in the Bell Chamber wear hearing protection. A system of signals is agreed between the Ringing Room and the Bell Chamber. This could be jerking the rope on an adjacent bell. Signal to raise the bell and witness the interaction between stay and slider. If there is any problem, give the signal to immediately lower the bell. You would have had to do something very wrong for there to be a problem with a traditional stay and slider. A possible problem with a Hastings stay could be the dingler binding on one side of the quadrant (This should not happen if the stay has been made correctly). It may be possible to correct this by noting which side is binding, lowering the bell, slackening the stay bolts and attempting to move the stay slightly before repeating the check. If this does not work, or for any other problem, you must swallow your pride and seek expert help.\nSome bolts, particularly coach bolts, may take time to settle in. It would be prudent to check the bolt tightness after a week or so.\nFurther Reading # “Hastings Stays”, The Ringing World 2003 (4834/35): 1230-31, with follow-up letter 2004 (4837): 29.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture What you hope not to see: the remains of a broken stay. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 1 Typical types of stay and their fitting. From A Schedule of Regular Maintenance, Central Council Publication, 1991. (Drawing © Alan Frost) 2 Curved stay removed from Thornbury, Glos, during 1996 rehang. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Stays attached to wooden headstocks with (a) two bolts, (b) top clamp. (Photos: Chris Povey) 4 Socket fitting on a metal headstock at Temple Guiting, Glos. (Photo: Chris Povey) 5 Bolting on a socket stay. (Composite of photos by Chris Povey) 6 Stay mounted on the side of a metal headstock at Chipping Sodbury, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 7 Raised bell at All Saints, Loughborough, showing traditional stay and slider. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Roger Lawson) 8 Operation of a traditional stay and slider at Thornbury, Glos. (Video: James Joynson) 9 Hastings stay at All Saints, Loughborough, showing dingler and quadrant. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Roger Lawson) 10 Hastings stay in operation. (Video: Andrew Ward) 11 Gillett \u0026amp; Johnston system at Wickwar, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 12 Steel stay and pendulum sliders at Frenchay, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 13 Cast iron headstock broken by forcing in an over-sized stay. (Photo: Chris Povey) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, March 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":8,"href":"/docs/090-clappers/","title":"Clappers","section":"Docs","content":" Clappers # This chapter covers:\nBackground: The various types of clappers, how they are made and suspended within the bell Routine Checking: The ways in which clappers can be checked, both as part of a routine maintenance schedule and to investigate any problems Maintenance: The options for dealing with problems and the level of experience needed to carry them out Final sections cover: Other Information relevant to clappers and Further Reading Background # A clapper assembly comprises four main components:\nThe crown staple, from which the clapper is suspended The clapper ball, which strikes the bell The shaft, connecting the ball to the crown staple, via the top end of the clapper The flight, which adds mass below the ball to improve the dynamic behaviour of the clapper Types of clappers # There are three main types:\nTraditionally, clappers were made from wrought iron. This has a low carbon content with slag inclusions which form a fibrous structure as the material is forged (or \u0026lsquo;wrought\u0026rsquo;) into a finished product. This material is tough, malleable, ductile, corrosion resistant and easily forge welded. It is an ideal material for producing a clapper. Unfortunately, it is now difficult to source. Faced with the difficulty of obtaining wrought iron, ductile iron, also known as spheroidal graphitic (or \u0026lsquo;SG\u0026rsquo;) cast iron, became the material of use for clappers. This is iron containing a high level of carbon (around 3%). Unlike the more familiar form of cast iron, where the carbon forms inclusions in the shape of flakes, ductile iron includes alloying elements which result in the carbon forming nodular inclusions, giving a tougher material. Being cast, rather than forged, the shape of the casting pattern is important. Some early SG clappers had oversized shafts, balls and flights which could lead to handling and striking problems, as well as possible damage to the bell. It is possible to machine such clappers to a better profile but this must be done by a specialist. Steel clappers have been made but are not widely used. Since 2005, an increasing number of bells are fitted with wooden shafted clappers. If well designed, these may improve the handling of \u0026lsquo;awkward\u0026rsquo; bells and make it easier to raise large bells \u0026lsquo;right\u0026rsquo; \u0026ndash; see Wooden Shafted Clappers. \u0026lsquo;Composite clappers\u0026rsquo; are also available: these use a man-made material for the shaft. Clapper suspension \u0026ndash; historical # This section describes historical clapper designs to allow a Steeple Keeper to recognise them. The maintenance and repair of such clappers is a specialist task and advice should be sought from a bell hanger. Up until the mid-19th century, clappers were suspended from a U-shaped wrought iron staple, cast into the crown of a bell during its manufacture. Iron corrodes with time and the corroded staple expands in the crown of the bell, generating stresses which will ultimately lead to cracking of the bell. For this reason, cast-in crown staples must be removed if the bell is to be retained for ringing \u0026ndash; see Removal of a cast-in crown staple.\nThe clapper was usually suspended from a cast-in crown staple using a baldric (or \u0026lsquo;baldrick\u0026rsquo;). In the nineteenth century, in the absence (or after the removal) of a cast-in crown staple, a separate \u0026lsquo;centre bolt\u0026rsquo; would be passed up through the crown of the bell and headstock. The traditional suspension would be made from a stirrup at the bottom of this bolt, with a baldrick or using a wooden block arrangement \u0026ndash; for example, the \u0026lsquo;Rudhall wooden top\u0026rsquo; shown in Figure 1.\nFigure 1: Wrought iron clapper with Rudhall wooden top\nModern independent clapper assemblies # In modern installations, the clapper is suspended from an independent crown staple, with a centre bolt passing up through the crown of the bell and the headstock. The component parts, shown in Figure 2, are:\nFigure 2: Parts of an independent crown staple\nA fixing nut at the top of the headstock. There are several possibilities for this: The most common is a castellated nut held in place with a split pin, shown in Figure 2(b). Stainless steel split pins are preferred to avoid corrosion and they may need to be replaced after removal. A plain nut with a split pin above \u0026ndash; the nut may work loose but should not come off completely. A nut plus a locknut, shown at (A) on Figure 2(a). A nut with a sacrificial plastic insert \u0026ndash; this type must be replaced every time the nut is removed. Proprietary locking nuts with a metallic spring section that clamps to the thread. A steel washer between the nut and the top of the headstock (not included on Figure 2(a) but visible on Figure 2(b)). The part of the centre bolt within the headstock is often of square section. Under the crown of the bell is the crown staple washer, made of leather or fibre, (B) on Figure 2(a). When the centre bolt nut is tightened, this helps to lock the crown staple in position within the bell. This is particularly important where the inside of the crown of the bell is rough \u0026ndash; for example where the bell has been quarter turned. At the bottom of the crown staple is usually a clevis fitting, (C) on Figure 2(a), comprising a U-shaped yoke with a pivot pin supporting the clapper \u0026ndash; described in the following section. Pivot pin and clapper bushes # Some designs of wooden shafted clappers have a ball bearing suspension. This is outside the scope of this document. The U-shaped clevis has two holes to accommodate a pivot pin. Usually, one hole and one end of the pin are threaded. After insertion, the threaded end of the pin protrudes through the clevis and is secured by a locknut \u0026ndash; shown at (D) on Figure 2(a). The other end of the pin has a bolt head or machined flats to allow a spanner to hold the pin while the locknut is tightened. If a bolt head is present, care must be taken not to overtighten as this could crack a cast staple or bend a steel one.\nThe top end of the clapper has a hole through which the pivot pin passes, fitted with a replaceable bush. Various types of bushes may be encountered:\nTraditionally, clapper bushes were made of lignum vitae. This is a dense wood (it sinks in water) containing oils which provide some natural lubrication. It is ideal as a bearing material and has been used for bearings in hydro-electric plants and nuclear submarines. Unfortunately, the source trees are now regarded as \u0026lsquo;Near Threatened\u0026rsquo; making further use of this material unsustainable. If worn lignum vitae bushes are encountered, they must be replaced \u0026ndash; this is outside the scope of this document.\nClapper bushes made from lignum vitae require additional lubrication, either by a screw cap lubricator of the \u0026lsquo;Stauffer\u0026rsquo; type or a grease nipple. Although more modern types of metal or plastic bushes may require no lubrication some bell hangers still provide grease nipples or similar, as shown at (E) on Figure 2(a). On balance, a method of lubrication is preferred although the benefit of retrospective fitting may be small.\nModern types of clapper bush are made of:\nOil impregnated sintered phosphor bronze. Nylon. Experience with a problem of swelling when damp or at elevated temperature means such bushes are now rarely fitted. Existing nylon bushes need not be replaced if performing satisfactorily. If necessary, the swelling problem can be rectified by careful reaming. TUFNOL. This is a proprietary laminated material impregnated with phenolic resin. Bushes may be backed by a layer of rubber.\nClapper centring pins # Figure 3: Twiddle pin (A), and double crown staple locknut (B)\nWhile not strictly part of the clapper, it is appropriate to mention these here.\nMost modern rings of bells with cast iron or fabricated steel headstocks have clapper centring pins fitted \u0026ndash; usually known as \u0026lsquo;Twiddle Pins\u0026rsquo;. There is clearance where the crown staple passes through the bottom of the headstock and the crown of the bell: twiddle pins allow the crown staple to be positioned in the centre of the bell. There is a twiddle pin on either side of the headstock, one of which can be seen at (A) on Figure 3. Each pin comprises a machine screw which locates against the generally square section of the centre bolt. The crown staple can be positioned by slackening one pin and tightening the other. Locknuts on each pin allow the pins to be locked in place when the process is complete. (Figure 3 also shows (B) another example of double locknuts on the crown staple.)\nThe use of twiddle pins to correct an odd-struck bell is described in Odd-Struck Bells.\nChecking Clappers # This Section deals with initial and regular checks of clappers. Routine checks and maintenance should be carried out in accordance with a schedule - see Maintenance Schedule - and results of all checks, including issues raised and how they were resolved, should be recorded.\nFor both practical and safety reasons, the checking and any subsequent maintenance must be carried out by at least two people, taking account of Health \u0026amp; Safety Requirements. The checks described here can be carried out by a Typical Steeple Keeper and helpers on the more modern independent crown staple designs; checks on the older types of clapper suspension may require assistance from more experienced personnel.\nThe procedure for checking is as follows:\nFigure 4: Wooden shafted clapper - note bolts securing ball to shaft\nProcedure for checking a clapper\nStanding in the pit, swing the clapper to check for squealing or grinding noises. It should swing smoothly and noiselessly, for more than five swings. (Take care to avoid getting hit by the swiinging clapper!) If not, this could indicate problems with the clapper bush. If the clapper has provision for lubrication this should be used.\nCheck the clapper is swinging \u0026rsquo;true\u0026rsquo; \u0026ndash; that is, the axes of rotation of the bell and the clapper are parallel. This can be checked by loosely holding the clapper vertical while a helper swings the bell through a small angle. If the clapper is not true it will move slightly sideways as the bell swings. Correction of this problem is described in Clapper not swinging true.\nIf this is a first check, assess the extent of the clapper impact area on the inside of the bell. If elongated this indicates wear of the clapper bush.\nIf the bell has a wooden clapper, this is a good time to check the tightness of the bolts securing the shaft to the clapper ball (see Figure 4) and the top fitting. For all clapper types, also check the locknut on the pivot pin. These fittings are subject to vibration, especially if the bush is worn, and it is not unknown for the pivot pin to work its way out and lead to ejection of the clapper. The consequences of this are similar to those of a broken clapper.\nCheck the movement of the clapper by attempting to lift the clapper vertically while a helper holds the crown staple nut lightly (if twiddle pins are present, slacken one of them first). On a well-maintained bell, there should be no vertical movement of the crown staple nut. When finished, remember to re-tighten the twiddle pin.\nThere are two main reasons why movement might occur:\nThe nut may have worked loose. This is unlikely with a castellated nut and split pin or a proprietary type of locknut but might occur with other types of nuts. The corrective action is described in Correcting loose crown staple nut.\nThe crown staple washer may be damaged or have become compressed.\nWith the crown staple tight on the crown of the bell, there may still be some small vertical movement arising from play in the clapper bush. This can be investigated further by the sideways movement of the clapper \u0026ndash; sometimes termed \u0026ldquo;clapper roll\u0026rdquo;. This is a sensitive measurement as a small movement in the bush is magnified by the length of the clapper. Clapper roll is measured most easily by standing in front of the bell with the clapper pulled to touch the rim. The total extent (left to right) of sideways movement can then be measured. The amount of roll should be checked and recorded on each occasion to provide a history of bush wear and to give warning of the need for re-bushing. As a guide, clapper roll over 20mm is warning of a need to plan for re-bushing and over 50mm requires immediate attention. A sudden large increase in clapper roll may indicate breakage of the pivot pin.\nIf the bells have not been inspected for a long time, wear of the bush will also be revealed by an elongated impact area on the bell. It will be necessary to remove the clapper to investigate (a) noise from the swinging clapper, (b) excessive clapper roll, or (c) possible damage to the crown staple washer or pivot pin \u0026ndash; clapper removal is described in Removal and replacement of a clapper.\nMaintenance # Removal of a cast-in crown staple # Removal of a cast-in crown staple must be carried out by a professional Bell Hanger, commonly within their workshop. Note that, within the jurisdiction of the Church of England, this work will require a faculty.\nClapper not swinging true # When working under small bells it may be necessary to remove the slider (if present) to provide better access. You MUST check it has been replaced correctly when the work is complete. Correction of a clapper which is not swinging true is within the capability of a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nProcedure for correcting a clapper not swinging true\nSlacken off one twiddle pin if present. Helper just slackens the crown staple nut. Steeple Keeper loosely holds the clapper vertical and checks for sideways movement as the helper swings the bell through a small angle. The Steeple Keeper twists the clapper to correct the swing and repeats step 3 until satisfied that the clapper is swinging true. Steeple Keeper holds the clapper in the correct position against the edge of the bell while the helper tightens the crown staple nut and, if fitted, the twiddle pin. Repeat step 3 to check that the clapper is still swinging true \u0026ndash; over-enthusiastic re-tightening of the crown staple nut may rotate the crown staple. Record a note to repeat the check at the next maintenance session. The clapper will need removal for further investigation if the problem recurs.\nCorrecting loose crown staple nut # As in replacement of the clapper described below.\nRemoval and replacement of a clapper # Using local effort to remove and replace a clapper is valuable, since it saves a bell hanger the time and expense of travel to do this small part of the work. Removal and replacement of a clapper is within the capability of a Typical Steeple Keeper, even if rectification of any problems requires specialist services.\nProcedure for removal of a clapper\nRemove the split pin if present. Slightly loosen the crown staple nut, ideally using the correct size spanner, although a large adjustable spanner is a possible alternative. This may require some effort. If twiddle pins are present, slacken one. Alternatively, slacken both by the same number of turns. Using tape or a marker pen, mark the ground pulley side of the clapper and the crown staple. This is to ensure that the clapper is replaced in the original orientation. A helper stands in the pit ready to support the clapper while the Steeple Keeper removes the crown staple nut. The Steeple Keeper must warn the helper just before the nut comes off the thread. The nut and washer are replaced for safe keeping on the crown staple after removal. With the assembly removed, any problems with a worn bush, failure of a pivot pin or a damaged crown staple washer will usually be obvious. Any problems can be rectified either by a local engineering specialist or a Bell Hanger. If this involves disassembly of the clapper, the contractor must be required to replace it in the original orientation, using the marks made on the clapper and crown staple in item 3 above.\nNote that the traditional leather or fibre washers may compress gradually and be more easily damaged by movement. Harder materials are available and advice on this should be sought from a Bell Hanger.\nReplacement of the clapper follows the reverse procedure, ensuring that:\nThe clapper is replaced in the original orientation and is swinging true \u0026ndash; see Clapper not swinging true. The twiddle pin or pins, if present, is/are tightened. This is done with the crown staple nut just tight (\u0026ldquo;nipped up\u0026rdquo; seems to be the technical term). The crown staple nut is tightened. A rule of thumb is to use reasonable force applied to a 10 inch (25cm) spanner. A final check is carried out to ensure the clapper is swinging true. The precautions described above to replace the clapper in the same orientation should ensure that the clapper will not become odd-struck (assuming it was not originally odd-struck). If the clapper has not been marked or reassembled incorrectly it will be necessary to check the odd-struckness and correct as necessary \u0026ndash; see Odd-Struck Bells. Finally, details of the work carried out are recorded for future reference.\nIf you are working on a bell where the clapper has not been removed for some time, you may find that the crown staple nut and twiddle pins (if present) have become seized. The first step is to treat them with a penetrating oil, preferably overnight, and then attempt to use a large spanner or wrench. If this is not effective, some form of impact driver may be more successful. Trying to hammer the spanner or wrench is not preferred, as it may lead to damage, both to the installation and to yourself. If all else fails, don’t be afraid to call on outside help. To avoid this in the future, coat the threads with an anti-seize copper grease before replacing. Other Information # Odd-struck bells # Ideally, the time it takes for a bell to strike after being pulled off at handstroke should be equal to the time at backstroke. Many ringers will have visited towers where they are warned that a certain bell is \u0026ldquo;a bit slow at handstroke\u0026rdquo; or something similar. But this should not be the case for a modern bell with the clapper hanging in the centre of the bell at rest.\nWe are assuming here that all the checks and maintenance described above have been carried out. This should have eliminated problems caused by clappers not running freely, worn bushes, loose crown staples and so on. All of these could result in unpredictable odd-struckness. But, as a responsible Steeple Keeper, you will have already ruled out all of these. A bell that is noticeably odd-struck and has twiddle pins can be corrected as follows:\nProcedure for correcting odd-struckness\nWith the bell down, pull up the rope and secure it to take the weight of the rope off the wheel. The bell should now be at bottom dead centre of its rotation. If possible, check this with a straight edge and a spirit level across the mouth of the bell. (A bell on plain bearings may need nudging for it to settle at bottom dead centre.) Slightly loosen the crown staple nut. Standing facing the bell, touch the end of a tape measure against the striking surface on the clapper ball (taking care not to move the clapper) and read the measurement to the lip of the bell. Repeat this on the opposite side (it helps to have one person on each side). If the readings are different, slacken one twiddle pin and tighten the other. Repeat steps 3 to 5 until the two measurements are equal, ideally to within 1mm. Re-tighten the crown staple nut and twiddle pins, and re-instate the bell rope. If twiddle pins are not present, the recommendation is to place a tapered washer (or a half-washer) under the crown of the bell. Advice on this should be sought from a specialist.\nElectronic devices are available for measuring odd-struckness \u0026ndash; as described in Odd-struckness and swing periods. It may be possible to find someone able to offer this as a service \u0026ndash; perhaps in your local Guild or Association. Such a device can also offer useful data on the swing periods of bells and the comparison between all bells in the ring \u0026ndash; see also in Odd-struckness and swing periods. While outside the scope of this document, this may be worth investigating as a way of dealing with problems in striking for some rings of bells.\nClapper breakage # Figure 5: SG cast iron clapper broken at the top end\nThe consequences of a broken clapper (Figure 5) can be serious, with the flying clapper causing expensive damage - maybe even breaking another bell.\nIn the event of breakage, the steeple keeper must check all parts of the installation for any consequential damage. Failures such as that shown in Figure 5 usually occur in SG clappers and result from a fatigue crack initiated from a pre-existing defect, leading to failure when the crack reaches a critical size. This type of crack is almost impossible to detect before failure without the use of specialised equipment and certainly not with the clapper in place within the bell.\nBroken clappers, either SG or wrought iron, cannot be repaired by electric welding. For an SG clapper, the answer is a new clapper. Wrought iron clappers can be repaired by forge welding \u0026ndash; in fact, many wrought iron clappers are made in two parts which are then forge welded to the correct length. But this work must be carried out by a specialist.\nAnother possible cause of clapper failure is the pivot pin working loose and eventually falling out. This is something which should be detectable at an early stage and rectified during regular checks. In summary, any repairs or replacements for clappers must be carried out by a Bell Hanger. A Typical Steeple Keeper can play a part by removing the remains of the clapper and by installing the new or repaired one.\nWorn clapper ball # Wear on the striking face of the clapper ball should be checked during routine maintenance. If a substantial flat surface has developed this is a job for a Bell Hanger, although the Steeple Keeper can assist by removing and replacing the clapper. The Bell Hanger may be able to twist and re-forge the shaft of a wrought iron clapper to present a new striking face.\nBell going up wrong # Some bells, particularly those over 20 to 25 cwt, are prone to going up \u0026lsquo;wrong\u0026rsquo;. That is, the clapper is on the higher (wrong) side of the bell when it is set at handstroke after raising. For some bells, it may be difficult to set the bell when this occurs. This depends on the design of bell and clapper \u0026ndash; more specifically, on (a) the distance between the two axes of rotation of bell and clapper, and (b) the low amplitude swing periods of the bell and clapper. As a rough guide, the low amplitude swing period of the clapper should be at least 90% that of the bell.\nRectification is a job for specialists. Replacement with a wooden shafted clapper may help.\nFurther Reading # Wooden shafted clappers # Bernard Taylor provides a history of the development of wooden shafted clappers in: \u0026ldquo;Wheeler\u0026rsquo;s Wooden Wallopers\u0026rdquo;. The Ringing World 2020 (5721): 1258-1261. Several other suppliers now provide their own designs.\nOdd-struckness and swing periods # David Bagley describes a meter for measuring odd-struckness in \u0026ldquo;Oddstruckness \u0026ndash; What it is and how to measure it\u0026rdquo;, The Ringing World 2019 (5653): 840-841.\nBernard Taylor describes work on swing periods and the matching of bells within a ring in \u0026ldquo;Creating a well-balanced ring at Worcester\u0026rdquo;, The Ringing World 2019 (5686): 388-391, (5694): 582-585 and (5679): 652-653.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Bell and clapper in motion at Worcester Cathedral. Cropped from an entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Phillip George) 1 Rudhall \u0026lsquo;Wooden Top\u0026rsquo; clapper removed from 4th bell at Thornbury, South Glos, during rehanging in 1996. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 2(a) Clapper from Palmer, Houston, showing parts. (Photo: Allen Nunley) 2(b) Castellated nut and split pin on seventh bell at Chipping Sodbury. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Headstock of Tenor bell at Thornbury, South Glos, showing \u0026lsquo;Twiddle Pin\u0026rsquo; and crown staple secured by a nut and locknut. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Wooden shafted clapper installed by Whites of Appleton on Tenor bell at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 5 SG clapper broken at the top end. (Photo: Dave Clark) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.3, January 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":9,"href":"/docs/100-bearings/","title":"Bearings","section":"Docs","content":" Bearings # The main bearings are critical items: in any installation, they support the large mass of metal swinging through a full circle and their condition is fundamental to the ‘go’ of the bell. You may encounter the two types of bearing – plain bearings and ball bearings. We will describe both, but a Typical Steeple Keeper’s main task will be the important role of carrying out the checks described here. This will help identify any problems before they reach a critical stage.\nA Typical Steeple Keeper can only carry out basic maintenance on bearings: for example, lubrication of plain bearings. Major jobs will usually require the lifting of a bell, even by a small amount, and this is a job for Bell Hangers, who carry the necessary insurances and requirements of Health \u0026amp; Safety regulations. Also, within the jurisdiction of the Church of England, there may be a legal requirement to obtain a Certificate or faculty for such work. Further details are given in Formal Requirements, Faculty Jurisdiction Rules and Health \u0026amp; Safety. Ball Bearings # Description # Ball bearings started to be fitted to bells only in the early 1920s but their use since then is almost universal, so these are the ones you are most likely to experience.\nFigure 1: Ball bearing - the split for assembly is arrowed\nA ball bearing (Figure 1) is a sealed unit that should require no regular maintenance. The bearing consists of one (or possibly two) rings of hardened steel balls running between two hardened steel tracks. The inner ring is mounted on the gudgeon and the outer on the bearing housing, mounted on the frame. On assembly, the bearings are filled with grease which is retained by seals. The grease provides some lubrication to prevent fretting between the balls and the track, but its main use is to protect the components from rusting.\nDesigns vary, but the type of bearing shown in Figure 1 is split for assembly along the line arrowed. Do not try to separate the two halves during routine checks.\nThe ball bearings used for bell hanging are self-aligning, allowing for small movements of the bell frame – particularly important for wooden frames. Lateral movement, resulting from small movements between the two side frames, is accommodated by a small amount of lateral travel (often termed ‘end float’) on one bearing, usually the one on the wheel side.\nIn many engineering applications, ball bearings provide prolonged satisfactory operation. But the alternating direction of rotation of the bell when ringing is not ideal, and neither are impacts on the bell from clock or chiming hammers. Impacts from chiming hammers is particularly harmful, as the film of grease may not be replenished when the bell is stationary, leading to metal-to-metal contact between the balls and the track.\nRegular checks and maintenance # Unless you suspect a problem with ball bearings (see Problems with Bearings), the only checks you should undertake are:\nCheck the tightness of the bolts holding the bearing to the frame. Check for leakage of grease from the end seals. Check clearances at either side – a bell can ‘travel’ sideways slightly, especially when subjected to a heavy clock hammer. This is unusual but should be checked. These checks can be undertaken by a Typical Steeple Keeper; but points 2 and 3 can only be rectified by a Bell Hanger.\nSome older ball bearings may have a grease nipple. This does NOT mean they require the grease to be ‘topped up’ regularly – that is a certain way of damaging the seals. Do not use a grease gun on these. The results of over greasing can be seen in Figure 2.\nFigure 2: The unfortunate effect of forcing grease into a ball bearing\nAs noted above, ball bearings are not working in an ideal regime. Even if no problems are experienced, it may be prudent to seek advice from a Bell Hanger on ball bearings more than 10 to 15 years old, especially if the bells are heavily used.\nPlain Bearings # Description # A plain bearing (“journal bearing” in engineering parlance) comprises a shaft rotating within a journal. The shaft and journal are made of different materials and the bearing requires lubrication – wear is avoided by the shaft floating on a thin film of oil as it rotates. For a bell, the ‘shaft’ is the steel gudgeon attached to the headstock (the moving part) and the ‘journal’ is a ‘bearing brass’ (sometimes made of bronze) attached to the bell frame (the fixed part). A typical bearing brass, of a type used since the Middle Ages, is shown in Figure 3.\nFigure 3: Parts of a typical plain bearing brass\nThe bearing brass (A) is wedge shaped. Traditionally it was fitted directly into an oak frame; more recently it would be fitted into a metal bedplate attached to the frame. The gudgeon revolves in the groove (B), with a reservoir for the oil (C). The top edges of the groove (D) may be chamfered to conduct surplus oil back to the reservoir. There is a slot (E) for inserting a chisel to remove the bearing. This is a task for a bell hanger, not a Steeple Keeper.\nFigure 4: Parts of a plain bearing assembly\nFigure 4 shows bearings on two bedplates which would be attached to the frame by hold down bolts through the holes at (A). The bearing brass (B) is inserted into the bedplate and the slot for the oil reservoir can be seen at (C). In this design, a felt pad would be placed on top of the gudgeon before the lid (D) is closed. This helps to help distribute the oil around the gudgeon. Note that failure to close the lid leads to loss of lubricant and can cause a bearing to seize.\nFigure 5: Alternative plain bearing assembly with oil reservoir\nFigure 5 shows an alternative design. Again, the holes for hold down bolts and the bearing brass can be seen at A and B, respectively. In this design, the oil is supplied from above in the reservoir (C), which contains a felt wick. The oil can be topped up through the small hole in the top of the reservoir.\nIn most engineering applications, journal bearings will operate with a steady rotation maintaining the oil film. In full circle ringing, however, the bell comes to rest with mouth upwards then turns in the opposite direction. At this point the oil film compresses and this has a very marginal braking effect on the bell. Some ringers feel that this helps to control the bell near the balance. This may be a myth: you need to make up your own mind.\nMost plain bearings allow a small amount of end float, but they are not self-aligning. This means that the gudgeons must be accurately aligned on installation. This presents a problem for wooden frames which may distort with time. This can lead to ‘pinching’ resulting in sudden dropping of the bell. This should not be a problem for plain bearings correctly mounted on metal frames.\nRegular checks and maintenance # This describes the work which should be carried out regularly by a Typical Steeple Keeper. Dealing with more fundamental problems is described below in Problems with Bearings. The main routine task for plain bearings is lubrication. Traditionally, castor oil was used – more specifically the ‘veterinary grade’. This may be difficult to procure, and an alternative is the oil developed to lubricate the chain on chainsaws. This contains a component to enhance the ‘anti-fling’ property needed for chainsaws and this may help to maintain the lubrication of the bearing. During lubrication, it is important to keep the area around the bearing clean to avoid ingress of any abrasive particles, such as dust and grit from tower masonry.\nDo not use grease as a lubricant. It forms an arch over the revolving part and never reaches where it is needed.\nThe recommendation is to lubricate little and often, preferably before each ringing session. A Steeple Keeper may find this unduly onerous: this is probably the major objection to the use of plain bearings.\nDuring a routine inspection, the Steeple Keeper should carry out two other checks:\nWith the bearing cap open, check for any scoring on the gudgeon. This may indicate abrasive particles in the bearing. If it becomes severe it may be necessary to clean the bearing. This requires lifting the bell which, as noted earlier, is a job for a Bell Hanger. For a wooden frame, check that frame movement or damage has not caused the bearing to move. Again, if this is the case, it is a job for a Bell Hanger. Problems with Bearings # DANGER: Extreme care must be exercised when carrying out the tests described in this section and two people (at least) must be present. Even when swinging through a small angle a bell can cause considerable damage if clothing or body parts become trapped. Even if no obvious problems have been detected, the ‘go’ of one or more bells may have become worse, on either plain or ball bearings. Ultimately, this is a problem for a Bell Hanger, but a Typical Steeple Keeper can get some information by listening carefully as the bell is swung by a SMALL amount while DOWN. Any squeaking, grinding or rumbling may indicate a problem and will signal the need for an expert opinion.\nFor this to work, other extraneous noise must be minimised:\nThe clapper should be tied to remove any noise from the clapper bush. The rope should be tied clear to remove noise from pulleys, loose bosses and rope chutes, and the bell swung by hand. A further test would be to swing several bells by the same small amount and check the times taken for the bell to come to rest. A time much shorter than for bells of similar weight could indicate a bearing problem.\nA Final Warning # To reiterate what we have said above: a Steeple Keeper must NOT attempt to dismantle bearings, plain or ball, and must not undertake any work which involves lifting a bell, even by levering it up a small amount.\nImage Credits # Figure Details 1 Ball bearing on the Tenor bell at Gloucester Cathedral. (Photo: James Joynson) 2 The unfortunate result of forcing grease into a ball bearing. (Photo: Malcolm Taylor) 3 Component parts of a plain bearing brass. From \u0026ldquo;A Schedule of Regular Maintenance”, Central Council publication, 1991. (Drawing © Alan Frost) 4 Plain bearing assembly showing parts. (Photo: Alison Hodge) 5 Plain bearing with oil reservoir. (Photo: Alison Hodge) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, December 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":10,"href":"/docs/110-rope-route/","title":"Rope Routes","section":"Docs","content":" Rope Routes # The rope may encounter many obstacles between the bell and the ringer. The main reasons are:\nIt is difficult to design a traditional rectangular bell frame with all ropes falling in a perfect circle, especially with constraints on space and the possible need for a two-tier frame. There may be obstacles such as support girders, ladders and clock cases which limit the placement of ropes. Any obstacle to free movement of the rope will have an effect on the handling of the bell. In this chapter we describe situations which a Steeple Keeper may encounter and the implications for checking and fixing problems.\nObstacles to a Straight Drop # Pulleys # The term Pulley can be used to refer either to a wheel which rotates as a rope passes over it or to the whole assembly of the wheel within its mounting, called a Pulley Block. Here, we will use more traditional terms: referring to the wheel as a Roller and using Pulley for the whole assembly of the Roller and the Roller Box which supports it. Some ringers may use different names but please bear with us. The first major ‘obstacle’ in any installation is the Ground Pulley. This usually sits below the bell and accommodates the change of direction of the rope as the bell rotates. With the bell set at back stroke (or down), the rope rises straight up to the wheel with the pulley playing little part. When set at hand stroke, however, the rope is pulled under the wheel, running over the Ground Pulley Roller. A single pulley like this may be referred to as a Hand Stroke Roller.\nA rope moved from where it would naturally fall is said to be ‘drawn’. Thus, where a double ground pulley is used the rope is ‘drawn’ further under the bell. Figure 1: Movement of the rope over a double ground pulley\nThe video in Figure 1 shows the operation of a double ground pulley. Note that the hand stroke pulley has to cope with a change of direction as well as the forces involved as the bell changes direction. The wear on this pulley likely to be larger than on any other along the rope route.\nIn a tower with a very short draught the sally may pass up through the ground pulley. In this case a wider roller box should have been fitted to accommodate the sally without resistance. If this is not the case, a suitable roller box should be obtained from a Bell Hanger. We have been referring to the most common location for the ground pulley – sitting below the wheel. A possible alternative is to ‘top-rope’ the wheel, with the ground pulley placed level with the top of the wheel, as shown in Figure 2.\nFigure 2: Movement of the rope on a top-roped bell\nThis may be a way of re-routing a rope to provide a more direct fall where there is an obstacle below the bell. The arrangement is used on the Charmborough portable ring, mainly to save space, although it also avoids the need for the sally to pass through the ground pulley. Note that this is only possible where the bell frame extends above the bell – see the description of an H-frame in Bell Frames.\nTraditionally, rollers were turned up in wood and fitted to an axle with plain bearings, which were often of very crude design.\nFigure 3: Modern plastic rollers with the start of grooving (arrowed)\nToday, various types of plastic rollers (Figure 3) are used as well as wood. They are usually fitted with sealed ball bearings which give long trouble-free service and are virtually silent in operation. Note the dished face on which the rope runs. Note also that the smaller roller is just beginning to show signs of grooving from rope wear (arrowed).\nIntermediate chambers # We can see that a limited amount of rope draw is possible by varying the position of the ground pulley. Ideally, any draw below the ground pulley should be minimised but, in order to achieve a good rope circle, that may not be possible. An intermediate (or clock) chamber, if present, offers the possibility of drawing ropes.\nSmall amounts of draw can be accommodated by the rope running over Bosses (see below) in the ceiling and floor. “Small amounts” is difficult to define but a rule of thumb is up to 5cm horizontally per metre of height.\nFigure 4: Rope drawn in an intermediate chamber\nFor larger amounts of draw, single pulley blocks are required on the floor and ceiling of the chamber and possibly also boards with support rings. For a large draw, these boards avoid the rope dropping into a loop when slack and then snapping tight when force is applied. Figure 4 shows a top pulley, board, and support ring (left), with detail of the bottom pulley (right). The use of a board is preferred to an enclosed box section (usually called a ‘rope chute’) because this may channel excessive sound down into the ringing room and may hide rope wear. However, a rope passing through a clock case should be fully enclosed, to reduce the risk of rope fibres getting into the clock mechanism. This will also avoid a broken rope becoming entangled in the mechanism.\nRope bosses # A Rope Boss is a flange which protects the rope from wear as it passes through a floor or rope guide. The example is shown in Figure 5 is on the floor of a bell chamber, immediately below the ground pulley.\nFigure 5: Boss on a bell chamber floor\nBosses can be made of timber or metal:\nHardwood is popular because it maintains a smooth surface – softwood is also used but wears much faster than hardwood. Metal bosses can be made of cast iron, steel or aluminium. All of these corrode, even to a small extent, and this can lead to increased rope wear. Stainless steel does not corrode in a normal tower environment and a stainless-steel boss will retain a smooth polished surface. This is, however, an expensive option. Rope guides # Some ringing rooms can have very high ceilings. In this case, one or more rope guides may be fitted to control the fall of the ropes. Rope guides may also be used to draw the ropes into a better circle but the amount of draw should be kept to a minimum.\nFigure 6: Rope guide at St Mary Redcliffe\nFigure 6 shows the rope guide at St Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. This carries bosses for all 14 bells. Note the solid construction, which minimises movement and rope noise.\nIn contrast, the Title Picture shows the rope guide at Leonard Stanley, Glos – a ground floor ring, rung from the centre of the church. The rolled steel frame is suspended on rods, braced laterally with series of wires. It is reported to perform very well.\nThe height of the rope guide should be such that, when the Tenor bell is set at back stroke, the lower half of the sally is in the guide. But note that one of the reasons for fitting a guide is to assist the handling of smaller bells, which may be ‘flighty’. So, rope guides may be fitted on the front bells only.\nChecking and Fixing # Any problems with the rope route can lead to difficulties in handling a bell and wear on the rope. This chapter covers the checking and fixing of features in the rope route which may cause problems. Checking of the ropes themselves is covered in Ropes and, if possible, checks on the ropes and the rope routes should be combined.\nRollers and roller boxers # Procedure for checking rollers and roller boxes\nCheck that the roller box is securely mounted. Check for signs of rope wear on the sides of the roller box. Hold the rope away from the roller and spin it by hand. Check that the roller spins freely and quietly. Check that the roller is round and that any groove worn by the rope is less than a few mm deep. Problems identified in the procedure above should be dealt with as follows:\nRoller Box not securely mounted (1) # Check all fastenings securing the roller box and tighten as necessary.\nRope wear on the roller box (2) # Ideally, the rope should only contact the roller, not the side of the box. Signs of significant rope wear on the box will indicate a problem:\nFor a ground pulley, the most likely cause is that the bell wheel is not running true. Checks and remedies are given in Wheels. If the wheel is running true, it is possible that the ground pulley is not correctly aligned with the wheel. This may require assistance from a Bell Hanger, although an experienced Steeple Keeper may be able to correct this using packing pieces or modifications to the fixing points. For other pulleys used to draw a rope in the intermediate chamber, wear on the roller box is almost certainly due to misalignment. See Intermediate chambers, below. Roller not spinning freely and quietly (4) # This is unusual in a modern installation with sealed bearings on the roller. To check, remove the bolt from the axle and withdraw it. The roller should then drop out of the roller box and can be inspected in detail. The problem may be a seized or dirty bearing. A replacement should be obtained from a specialist bearing supplier or a Bell Hanger.\nFor older types of rollers with plain bearings, lubrication may solve the problem:\nIf the roller is fixed to its axle, the bearing is usually a metal plate fitted on each side of the box – a few drops of oil should be sufficient to stop any noise and permit free rotation. If the roller spins on an axle fixed to the box, run a few drops of oil down the inside face of the box, holding the roller to one side to facilitate this. This type of roller box often has a groove down each inside face to make this operation easier. The roller box may be fitted with ‘Stauffer’ type screw lubricators. An occasional turn of the cap will force sufficient grease into the bearing to last for some months. If the cap will screw down no further, remove it, fill with grease, and replace. Roller not round or grooved (5) # The face of a roller may develop a groove caused by wear from contact with the rope (see Figure 3). A small groove is acceptable but the roller should be replaced if the depth of the groove exceeds a few millimetres. With extensive use, rollers may become elliptical, with a deeper groove on one side. This is more likely for wooden rollers, particularly on the hand-stroke roller, with its heavier duty. In this case, the roller will need replacement.\nIntermediate chambers # Ropes dropping straight through an intermediate chamber should not present problems, although you should check that the assorted items that always seem to accumulate in these chambers are well away from the ropes.\nIf ropes are drawn, carry out the roller box and roller checks described above on the pulleys at both the floor and ceiling. Note that the ceiling check may require the use of a ladder – this is made much easier with modern telescopic ladders.\nIf you have recently taken over as steeple keeper, you should check that the pulleys on any drawn ropes are correctly aligned – with the axis of the pulley at right angles to the direction of drawing. Correcting this will require re-aligning the pulley. This may be possible using local labour; otherwise, contact a bell hanger.\nBosses and rope guides # Check all ceiling and rope guide bosses for signs of wear or looseness, particularly if they are used to draw ropes. Check metal bosses not made of stainless steel for corrosion, and polish if necessary. The height of a rope guide will make checking of these bosses difficult: binoculars may help, although a scaffold tower may be needed for a more thorough check.\nFigure 7: Detail of a boss on the rope guide at Redcliffe\nA problem which may be experienced with rope guides is that the sally develops an ‘hour-glass’ shape as it passes through the guide. This has been cured at Redcliffe by installing a longer boss (Figure 7). This comprises a stainless-steel boss below the rope guide and a 13cm wooden boss above, giving a 17cm tube in contact with the rope.\nRope bosses, whether on a floor or in a rope guide, can be noisy. This may be due to the floor or the rope guide structure being inadequately rigid. A Steeple Keeper can do little about this, although it might be worth considering if any alterations are planned for the floor or the guide.\nCeiling bosses may work loose with time, leading to rattling as the bell is rung. You may be able to deal with this by tightening screws or adding strengthening blocks on the floor above the boss.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Rope guide at Leonard Stanley, Glos. (Photo: Roger Bagley) 1 Rope moving over a double ground pulley, Thornbury, Glos. (Video: James Joynson) 2 Movement of the rope on a top-roped bell, St Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. (Video: Philip Pratt) 3 Modern plastic rollers. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Rope pulled in an intermediate chamber, Thornbury, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 5 Rope boss in a bell chamber floor, Thornbury, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 6 Rope guide at St Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. (Photo: Philip Pratt) 7 Detail of a boss on the rope guide at Redcliffe. (Photo: Philip Pratt) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.1, September 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":11,"href":"/docs/120-ropes/","title":"Ropes","section":"Docs","content":" Ropes # The rope forms the essential connection between the bell and the ringer. It is a two-way communication – the ringer uses the rope to control the movement of the bell, while the rope provides information on the position of the bell and how fast it is moving.\nThe rope may have to negotiate obstacles between the bell and the ringer, such as pulleys, rope guides, rope chutes and rope bosses. These are covered in Rope Routes.\nRope Construction # Ropes are built up in three stages: First, fibres are gathered and spun into yarns. For ropes made of natural fibres (such as hemp or flax), Rope Makers may buy yarns ready spun: they resemble string. A group of yarns is then twisted to form a strand and three (or possibly four) strands are twisted together to form a rope. At each stage, the direction of twist is reversed - this gives stability and strength to the final rope.\nIt is important to note that the fibres in a natural rope are not continuous: the yarn can easily be picked apart. The successive reverse twists provide friction to hold the fibres together. This is illustrated in Figure 1, taken from A Seaman’s Pocket Book, 1943. (‘Hawser-laid’ is a traditional term for a three-strand rope.)\nFigure 1: The components of a natural fibre rope\nSince the 1970s, polyester ropes have been used for top ends of bell ropes. Some people still refer to this as ‘Terylene’, a brand name of that era which is no longer used. Other man-made materials have been used, so we will just refer to ‘artificial fibre’ to avoid confusion. While these ropes are still made up from strands, the fibres making up the strands are continuous.\nArtificial ropes with a braided outer cover have been developed for nautical and climbing applications. An early example was Dyneema® and this name is commonly used, although other versions are available. These products have been used for the top ends of bell ropes because of their very low stretch and hard-wearing properties.\nParts of a bell rope # Figure 2: Parts of a bell rope\nThe demands are different on different parts of a bell rope, shown in Figure 2:\nThe top end (A) needs to resist the atmosphere in the bell chamber and the wear and flexing experienced on the route to the ringing room. Where a top end is made of artificial fibre, a splice (B) is used to join the artificial top end to the bottom end. There are two possibilities: When a new rope is made with an artificial top end, the natural fibre of the bottom end is combined with the artificial fibre during manufacture to produce a ‘machine splice’ with very little change in the diameter of the rope, as can be seen at (B). This can only be done by a Rope Maker. If the sally and tail end of an existing natural fibre rope are in good condition, an artificial fibre top end can be spliced on, usually with a short splice. This can be done, if needed, by a Steeple Keeper experienced in splicing. A suitable artificial fibre top end can be sourced from a Rope Maker. Top end rope, be it natural or artificial, is not kind on ringers’ hands and natural fibre, wound to give a softer rope, is used for the bottom end of the rope – that part handled by the ringer. The two areas where the rope is handled are: The Sally (C), handled at the handstroke, is made of wool fibres incorporated into the rope as it is made. The Tail End (D), handled at the backstroke, is doubled back and tucked in. This allows adjustment of the tail end length and makes it more comfortable to handle. The very end of the rope will be finished (the term is ‘whipped’) to prevent fraying and to assist in tucking in the rope, as shown in Figure 3. Figure 3: Example of whipping at end of a tail end rope\nNatural or artificial? # Most steeple keepers would nowadays accept the benefits of using artificial fibre for the top ends of bell ropes:\nIt resists damage from the damp atmosphere in a bell chamber. It resists stretching. It resists wear. It resists damage caused by the bending of the rope as it exits the garter hole. Yorkshire tail ends # Figure 4: Yorkshire tail ends\nIt would be remiss not to mention Yorkshire tail ends. These have a small sally (Figure 4) at the tail end, rather than a doubled-back rope. Most Rope Makers can provide them if required. The Whiting Society have an article on Yorkshire tail ends here.\nOrdering new ropes # As the details of towers may vary, we advise discussing your needs with a Rope Maker. Also consider consulting a Rope Maker if you have inherited a rope that needs replacing: if you don’t know the history, the old rope may not have optimum dimensions.\nSpiders # Figure 5: A typical spider\nA spider is a device usually used to hoist bell ropes up to the ceiling when not in use, as shown in the Title Picture and Figure 5. The spider is a wood or metal object (often decorative) with hooks for the ropes. It is suspended on a cord which passes over one or more pulleys before coming down to a fixing point in the ringing room.\nThe spider is not there just to make the ringing room look tidy – it may be necessary to use it to secure the ropes from unwanted tampering.\nThe spider needs to be heavy enough to descend easily and reliably without the weight of the ropes, remembering that the pully may become stiff with age – reaching a stuck spider in a most ringing chambers would not be easy. The spider should also stop above normal head height, to avoid possible injury if the cord is accidentally let go. This can usually be achieved by running the cord through an eyebolt or similar above the fixing point, with a knot (ideally a ‘Figure-eight’ knot) to catch the cord at a safe height, as shown (arrowed) in Figure 6.\nFigure 6: A knot (arrowed) prevents the spider dropping below head height\nSomeone who knows about such things has pointed out that the device arrowed in Figure 6 is actually a type of cleat which would stop the rope if it was let slip. Well maybe, but better safe than sorry. Checking # The condition of the ropes should be checked regularly at the following areas as set out in the Maintenance Schedule.\nGarter hole # This is the point where the rope emerges from the wheel. Here it will experience tight turns in both directions as the bell swings from handstroke to backstroke. This is an area of greatest wear and must be checked regularly. The garter hole and the bobbins, see Wheels, should also be checked for smoothness and possible loose screws.\nNatural fibre ropes are prone to this form of wear, and it is good practice to adjust the rope up and down a little to spread the wear. Artificial fibre ropes are usually more resistant to this type of wear but should still be checked at this point.\nPulleys, Bosses, Rope Chutes \u0026amp; Rope Guides # These areas are described in Rope Routes. A particular area of wear, possibly worse than that at the garter hole, is about 45cm (18 in) from the garter hole, where the rope passes over the ground pulley. The wear arises from the rope having to accelerate and decelerate the pulley at every stroke.\nUnless you are lucky enough to have straight drops from the ground pulley to the ringers there will be general wear resulting from other components which may rub against the rope or change its direction. But this will be distributed along a length of the rope and is not a major problem unless there is a ‘rogue component’ causing more local wear. This should be detected by the checks described in Rope Routes. Once again, the problem is minimised using artificial fibre top ends.\nSally # A sally might experience wear at its top if it passes through a rope guide or a boss in a low ceiling. There may also be wear within the length of a sally if it falls within a boss or rope guide at backstroke. Factors like this should be made known to a Rope Maker when ordering ropes as it may be possible to adjust the sally to compensate.\nIf woollen strands are sticking out from a sally you can carefully trim them off. Do not attempt to pull them out. However, if the sally is dropping wool or starting to come apart you should contact a Rope Maker as a repair may be possible.\nTail end # Tail ends are often the first part of a rope to need repair. There are two main causes:\nOn larger bells, with their bigger wheels, the rope may repeatedly hit the floor when the bell is rung. Ropes perform best in tension and the bottom of a loop hitting the floor horizontally may open the strands. This parts the fibres and loosens the rope structure, leading to wear at this point. There is a view that rope mats will help to avoid wear, so long as they are made of wool, rather than artificial fibre. Apart from that possibility, you can either live with this or install permanent boxes on affected bells. Ringers adjusting the tail end length. This may take two forms: Untucking and tucking the tail end, common before the start of a peal or quarter peal. This is acceptable, provided it is done carefully, using a wooden spike, known as a fid, to separate the strands. Metal spikes should not be used: the risk of damaging the strands is too great. Tying a knot – usually a ‘Figure-eight’ knot – to shorten a long rope. This is a short-term measure – perhaps just for one touch at a practice. This is acceptable so long as the knot is removed after use – if a knot is left in for too long it tightens, with possible damage to the rope when it is eventually untied. Also, knots should be removed before bells are lowered. Spider cord \u0026amp; pulleys # The spider cord will be of smaller diameter than a bell rope and the pulleys will probably be less sophisticated than bell pulleys. It is important to check for wear on the cord and free running of the pulleys.\nRepairs # If ropes are kept in a good condition, with regular checks for wear and other damage, a rope should not break during ringing. But a Steeple Keeper will need to be able to deal with wear or other damage before a breakage, or to replace a rope. Also, there may be an urgent need to deal with a broken rope when visiting a tower not fortunate enough to have a capable Steeple Keeper. Splicing # Most repairs to bell ropes involve splicing. With practice, this can be carried out by the Steeple Keeper. We do not discuss the details further here as excellent guidance from the late Frank Beech is available in ‘Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated’, available here. This includes details of how to splice an artifical fibre top end onto an exisisting sally.\nWith natural fibre top ends, splicing was often needed because of wear at the garter hole and over the ground pulley. There was a common recommendation to order ropes longer than required to provide extra rope for repairs, with the excess being tied off at the wheel. With the much better wear properties of artificial fibre top ends this is not necessary.\nThe need for repair of a tail end is more likely and this can be carried out by a Steeple Keeper competent in making a short splice. Note that this must be done using ‘tail end’ rope to provide suitably soft handling. Bell Hangers and Rope Makers can provide lengths of such rope, with one end finished with a whipping to prevent fraying (see Figure 3). Even if a tail end seems to be beyond repair, it is worth discussing this with a Rope Maker. There may be other options available which are cheaper than a new rope.\nSpare ropes # If a repair cannot be carried out quickly, it may be useful to have a spare rope available. There is no need to hold a complete set of spare ropes: that is a waste of space and money. Depending on the range of sizes between your Treble and Tenor, up to three spares should be adequate to provide a temporary replacement for any bell.\nSpare ropes should not be kept in a poorly ventilated cupboard. Ideally, they should be hung in a tidy coil in the ringing room, possibly in bags made of natural fibre to allow the ropes to \u0026lsquo;breathe\u0026rsquo;. This will also avoid the risk of attack by mice (Figure 7). Figure 7: Rope attacked by mice while stored in a cupboard\nFitting a new rope # This is a job for at least two people: one in the bell chamber and the other in the ringing room. The Health \u0026amp; Safety aspects described in Health \u0026amp; Safety must be considered. Ideally, two people in the bell chamber would be preferable – at the least, an assistant can hold the rope in position while it is tied off on the wheel.\nUnless you have a very straight drop from the bell to the ringing room, it is much easier if two ropes are involved. For simplicity, we will call these the ‘new’ and ‘old’ ropes. You have a choice:\nIn the ringing room, tie the top of the new rope to the old rope’s tail end and pull the new one up using the old rope, or Take the new rope up to the bell chamber, tie the bottom of the new rope to the top of the old rope and lower both ropes down. Either option finishes with a whole bell rope in the bell chamber, with the risk of it getting tangled or dirty. (This is where an assistant in the bell chamber is valuable.) If this is an issue, you could consider obtaining a thinner plain feeding rope and using that to lower the old rope and then pull up the new one. The top end of the new rope is then fed through the garter hole on the wheel and gently pulled up until the assistant in the ringing room stops the rope at the correct sally height.\nThere are various ways of establishing the correct sally height. One option is to keep a record of the correct distance between the bottom of each sally and the floor; another option is to have a wooden stick marked with the correct height for each sally. Pragmatically, if the assistant in the ringing room is an experienced ringer you could just rely on their judgement. The rope is then tied off on the top spokes of the wheel, see Figure 8. Details are given in Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated.\nFigure 8: Rope tied off on the main spokes of the wheel\nRope Driers # Ropes may become stiff in damp unheated ringing rooms. It may be possible to install a dehumidifier in a small ringing room but this would not be effective in the average size room. Ringers have produced home-made electrically heated rope driers but there are concerns over a lack of guidance on the safety of these. Following discussion with interested parties, suggestions have been prepared and these are included as an Appendix to this chapter.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Ropes on a spider at St Germanus, St Germans, Cornwall. Front cover of The Ringing World , 12 November 2021. Used with permission. (Photo: James Wray) 1 Parts of a ‘Hawser Laid’ (three strand) rope, from A Seaman’s Pocket Book, 1943. Public domain document, see here. 2 Parts of a bell rope. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Example of whipping at end of a tail end rope. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Yorkshire tail ends. (Photo: Alison Hodge) 5 A typical spider, at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 6 Knot to prevent a spider dropping below head height. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 7 Rope attacked by mice while stored in a cupboard. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 8 Rope tied off on the main spokes of a wheel, at Wickwar, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.1.2, March 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":12,"href":"/docs/130-bells/","title":"Bells","section":"Docs","content":" Bells # Bells are important as the public voice of the church – familiar to those living near or passing by. Made of cast bronze (an alloy of about 77% copper and 23% tin), they have been associated with English churches since at least the seventh century. The oldest surviving bells date from about the twelfth century, although these are rarely part of a ring of bells. However, it is not unusual to find a pre-reformation (pre-1534) bell still in use.\nAround the middle of the nineteenth century, some church bells were cast in steel, as a cheaper alternative to bronze. Manufacture was discontinued after about twenty years but some rings of steel bells are still in use.\nDevelopment of Bells # Figure 1: Parts of a bell\nFigure 1 shows a pre-reformation bell, cast around 1450, and illustrating the main parts of a bell:\n(A) Almost every bell cast before the end of the 19th century had loops cast into the crown of the bell called ‘canons’ (sometimes ‘cannons’), together with a taller central loop called the ‘argent’ (partly missing on this bell). These were used to suspend the bell from a headstock.\n(B) The top of the bell is termed the ‘crown’.\n(C) is the ‘shoulder’, for obvious reasons.\n(D) is the ‘inscription band’ – incorporated onto the bell during founding. On pre-reformation bells this is usually liturgical – ”SANCTE MICHAEL ORA PRO NOBIS” on this bell. On a modern bell this will usually give the founder’s name and a date.\n(E) is the ‘waist’ of the bell. Modern bells may have an inscription giving more information here.\n(F) is the ‘soundbow’ – the point where the clapper strikes the inside of the bell.\n(G) is the ‘lip’ of the bell.\nAt one time, canons were accidentally (or deliberately) broken or cut off the crown and the bell was then secured to the headstock with bolts passing through the crown. The historical value of canons is now recognised and such bells can continue in use with canon-retaining headstocks – see Headstocks for more details.\nFigure 2: Modern flat-topped bell\nFor over a hundred years, new bells have been cast with flat tops and bolted directly to the headstock with a wood or epoxy spacer, as shown in Figure 2. This bell was cast in 2000 by the Whitechapel Bell Foundry and installed by Whites of Appleton as the new treble during the augmentation to eight of the ring at Chipping Sodbury.\nChecking for Problems # There is little a Steeple Keeper can do in terms of maintenance of the bells, but regular checking will identify any problems, which may then require action.\nSurface finish # The shiny finish on a new bell will not remain for long: the patina which appears with age on a bronze bell is quite natural and there should be no attempts to remove it. The most that should be done is to remove any deposits or stains which may appear. The bells must also be protected when the frame, headstocks, or other parts of the installation are painted.\nStains on a bell may reveal problems elsewhere. For example:\nOil or grease stains may result from a leaking oil seal on a ball bearing or spillage from lubrication of a plain bearing. Evidence of either of these requires action, as described in Bearings. In earlier times, white spirit was widely used to remove oil or grease, but it is now recognised that this is harmful to health and difficult to dispose of safely. Low volatile organic compound (VOC) degreasers are now widely available and must be used for cleaning. See Health \u0026amp; Safety. Bird droppings will reveal the need to check the tower’s bird protection – possibly damaged netting on the louvres. Small amounts of bird droppings can be removed with a damp cloth, but extensive bird ingress requires specialist cleaning because of the risk of infection.\nWater stains may reveal problems with weather protection, or damage to the roof. This will require action by the church authorities.\nWear on the soundbow # Wear will result from the impact of the clapper on the inside of the soundbow. This normally results in a small area of bright metal.\nThe impact area may become elongated as a result of a worn clapper bush or a loose crown staple. But this should be detected by the checks described in Clappers. In time, the impact area will become deeper. If it becomes deeper than about 10% of the thickness, there is risk of the bell cracking. The extent of wear can be checked by a Steeple Keeper with the use of a pair of outside calipers.\nProcedure for measuring depth of impact area\nMeasure the thickness of the soundbow at its thinnest point using the calipers. Measure the thickness of the soundbow either side of the thinned area at the same distance from the lip of the bell as the centre of the thinned area and calculate the average unworn thickness. If the difference between the worn and unworn thickness is greater than about 10%, then the bell must be checked by a bell hanger. The usual remedy for excessive wear is to rehang the bell turned through 90° (termed ‘quarter turning’). This is definitely a job for a bell hanger and will require approval from the relevant authorities.\nCracking # Figure 3: Bell cracked and broken from a cast-in crown staple\nA cracked bell is a serious problem. Even a small crack may grow and result in a complete failure of the bell (Figure 3). Cracks may be found in the following places:\nThe most likely location is in the crown of a bell with a cast-in iron crown staple, or the remains of one. Iron corrodes with time and the corroded staple expands in the crown of the bell, generating stresses which will ultimately lead to cracking of the bell, as you can see in Figure 3. Given the difficulty of access and the likely surface condition it will be difficult to detect a crack in the crown visually. The only reliable safeguard is to remove all traces of a cast-in staple – see Clappers. Where a bell is hung by its canons, cracks may be found around the canons. This area should be inspected visually at regular intervals, although this inspection may not be reliable because of the surface condition and because cracks may be hidden by the headstock. The only reliable remedy is to avoid stress on the canons by rehanging the bell with a modern canon-retaining headstock. Cracked bells require the services of a bell hanger. A Steeple Keeper may, however, perform a valuable function by recognising the possibility of a problem, or even identifying a possible crack.\nSome cracked bells may be repaired by welding. If feasible, this allows a historic bell to be retained in use safely. But this is NOT routine welding and, currently, there is only one company known to provide the service. Damage from chiming hammers # Bells should be checked for damage if they are used as clock bells, for manual chiming, as part of a carillon or Ellacombe apparatus, or other systems in which hammers strike the bells.\nThe following precautions must be observed to avoid damage to the bells – and to the chiming mechanism:\nAny hammers must be capable of being pulled clear of the bells before full circle ringing. The mechanism for chiming the bells, be it a clock, manual chime or an Ellacombe apparatus, must be correctly installed and maintained in good condition. The mechanism for pulling the hammers clear must be checked regularly. The means for pulling hammers off must be clearly visible in the Ringing Room, and its status must be obvious. If the Ellacombe apparatus is not located in the Ringing Room, arrangement must be made to ensure that it is locked off when ringing is taking place. Ringers must exercise a culture of always ensuring all hammers are off before ringing starts – and restoring them when ringing finishes. The use of reversible notices saying “chimes on/off” is discouraged since their accuracy cannot be guaranteed and may discourage actual checks. Persons operating an Ellacombe apparatus (who may not be regular ringers) must be instructed in the use of the apparatus: over-enthusiastic use may damage the bells. Image Credits # Figure Details Title Picture The Treble bell at Derby Cathedral. (Photo: Roger Lawson) 1 Bell cast c1450, showing the main parts. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 2 Modern flat-topped bell. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Bell cracked and broken from a cast-in crown staple. (Photo: John Taylor \u0026amp; Co) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.1, September 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":13,"href":"/docs/150-maintenance-schedule/","title":"Maintenance Schedule","section":"Docs","content":" Maintenance Schedule # The maintenance schedule is an important document:\nIt defines what items need regular checking and how often. It includes provision for recording the results, including any remedial work carried out or still outstanding. It provides evidence that the schedule has been observed in case of any incidents. This chapter includes a model schedule and reporting sheets for download and modification to suit the needs of your tower, and guidance on how that modification can be carried out.\nFor convenience, the term “Church” is here used to mean the authorities responsible for the tower – the Church Wardens and PCC in the Church of England, or their equivalents in other denominations world-wide. It can also be taken to cover those responsible for non-religious buildings which include rings of bells – for example, the Town Council for a municipal ring. Model Schedule # A suggested model schedule – which also acts as a checklist – is here for you to download and save. This is not meant to be prescriptive. If you would prefer to produce the schedule in a different way that is fine. But we hope the information given here will be useful.\nThe model schedule is in .docx format, which can be read by most word processing programmes, including Microsoft Word and Libre Office Writer. You may need to tell your browser to accept downloads from Belfry Upkeep. Note that different browsers may handle downloads in different ways. The model schedule is three pages long so, to give an idea of the content, Figure 1 shows the top part of the first page and the bottom part of the third. When modified to suit your tower, this will be filled in when checks are carried out, with one sheet per year. Note that there is a space at the bottom of the last page to record the name(s) of those carrying out the checks.\nFigure 1: Screenshot of the beginning and end of the downloaded model schedule\nAll towers vary, so you will now need to modify the downloaded file to suit the needs of your own tower. How you do this is up to you, but we will provide some guidance. You may also be able to obtain advice from other local towers or your local Ringing Association.\nAs a start, you will need to enter details of your tower. You can personalise this as you wish: change the colour, add a photograph or whatever. Note that this document is set up to repeat the tower details at the top of each page.\nPlease remember that you must not become a slave to the schedule. A Steeple Keeper must always be ready for unexpected events: Did someone just bump a stay heavily? Is an experienced ringer complaining that a bell is not going as well as usual? In cases like this, a good Steeple Keeper will check as soon as possible, rather than waiting for the next scheduled inspection. You will see later that there are report sheets to cover such occasions. There are three main factors you need to consider as you personalise the schedule further, as set out below.\nRelationship with the Church # You should share and explain your schedule with the Church, remembering that they may not be familiar with all aspects of a bell installation. You should make it clear that your inspections and any remedial work you need to carry out, or commission from a Bell Hanger, aims to protect the church from a much more expensive outlay in the long run, and the possibility of damage, injury or both.\nSome items in the model schedule are the responsibility of the Church: portable appliance tests and checks on fire extinguishers, for example. Your responsibility here is to warn the Church if they are overdue in the tower – it is not unknown for contractors to forget about items ‘upstairs’. Most churches are subject to a Quinquennial Inspection, usually carried out by the church architect. You should work with the Church to ensure that this covers the tower (not always the case) and that the Steeple Keeper is able to liaise with the inspecting architect on matters associated with the bell installation.\nIt is possible that the Steeple Keeper may agree with the Church to accept responsibility for some of ‘their’ checks – maybe the checks on lighting if the responsible Churchwarden in unable to deal with the stairs. In these cases, you must agree a reporting format, sign off checks as they are done appropriately and ensure that the results are placed in the church records.\nSome areas within a tower will be shared with others: the clock winder or the person who puts up the flag, for example. In these cases, you need to be clear where your area of responsibility ends. Ground floor rings are very often shared spaces; ringers may share such space with the choir, cleaning equipment, flower arrangers, even equipment for maintaining the churchyard, and so on.\nContent of the schedule # This is where you remove the items not applicable to your installation or add ones peculiar to your tower which are not covered in the model schedule. Note that the items in the schedule follow the same order as the chapters in Belfry Upkeep. The relevant chapter provides details of the checks to be carried out. In addition, your local Guild or Association may be able to provide advice.\nThe items under ‘General’ may be more difficult – every tower is different and liaison with the Church may be essential. In many cases, these will be the responsibility of the Church and, as noted above, the Steeple Keeper will check that they have not been missed or will carry them out by agreement with the Church.\nTiming of the checks # The model schedule assumes four checks, at three-monthly intervals, with one sheet per year. While this is a good starting point, it may not be suitable for your tower. Almost certainly, you will not need to check everything on the list four times each year. You should be able to identify ‘Major’ and ‘Minor’ checks. Items not needed in Minor checks can be greyed-out on that box in the schedule. Major checks are best carried out in the Spring and Autumn, to avoid extremes of climate, and other checks may need to be carried out at certain times of the year. An example of this is checks on the tightness of fixings on wooden components, which are best carried out in the Autumn, on the optimistic assumption that Summer will be dry with the possibility of wood shrinking.\nIf usage of the bells is light – perhaps only Sundays and practice nights – you might judge that twice-yearly checks are adequate. For the reasons given above, a minor check in the Spring and a major one in the Autumn is probably the best choice.\nAnyone with a basic understanding of word processors should be able to convert the four columns in the model schedule to two columns. You should consider changing the checking frequency based on experience. Initially, to be on the safe side, you might check a component every three months. You could then consider extending the frequency to six months or longer if these checks show no change.\nDepending on the installation and usage of the bells, some checks may be required more frequently than quarterly. Some examples are:\nA monthly short functional check is a requirement for emergency lighting. If you are teaching learners, with frequent bumping of stays, a monthly check for cracking may be prudent (although you should perhaps also review the way you teach leaners). It may be wise to complete a check before a major event – for example, a striking competition, a peal or quarter peal marking a special occasion that you would not wish to lose as a consequence of inadequate prior checks Take the opportunity to undertake checks when putting on or removing muffles, when you will necessarily be climbing around the belfry We cannot cover all eventualities so, if this is an issue for you, you will need to devise your own check sheet covering more frequent checks.\nExample of schedule # To illustrate the points above, the first part of a (fictitious) example schedule is shown in Figure 2. Comparing it with Figure 1, you will see that this tower has a metal bell frame and traditional stays and sliders. Non-relevant items have been deleted and some inspection intervals have been ‘greyed-out’ where not considered necessary. (You may argue with these but, remember, it is just an example.) It also includes some example results needing action, which will be discussed in the next section.\nFigure 2: Example Schedule, with results\nRecording and Reporting # Recording # Optimistically, most items on the schedule will not require action after checking, so we have suggested small boxes for reporting each item. If no action is needed, these can be completed with a tick or ‘OK’. However, some items might need attention. Examples are:\nA minor problem that was corrected during the checking – for example, a loose nut was tightened. Something was noted which will need attention – for example, a rope might be showing signs of wear and will need repair or replacement. To deal with these, we suggest the use of ‘Action Tracking’ sheets, which are available here for you to modify.\nFigure 3 is a screenshot of this document.\nFigure 3: Screenshot of Action Tracking Sheet\nEach item needing attention should be shown by a consecutive number on the reporting sheet – in Figure 2 we suggest the year followed by a number. This is then used as the ‘Action Reference’ on the tracking sheet. The action sheet will also show the dates that the action was raised and when completed. To cover all possibilities the remainder of the tracking sheet is blank but the entry should indicate:\nThe urgency of the work: Was it carried out during the check? Does it indicate a progressive problem which needs monitoring? Is it serious enough to present a risk to personnel or the installation? In which case, immediate action will be required. Whether the work can be carried out by local effort or if assistance is needed, either from the local Guild or Association or from a bell hanger. The ‘Details’ column records the action(s) taken, with dates and the name(s) of those involved in the right hand column. Note that the lists of actions needed may extend over some time. The table is designed to expand, if necessary, over more than one page.\nIf a problem arises outside the normal checking schedule, a tracking sheet should be used to record it and the actions taken. Example of action tracking # To illustrate the use of the Action Tracking form, Figure 4 shows two example forms filled in with the actions from the example schedule in Figure 2.\nFigure 4: Examples of completed Action Tracking forms\nYou will see that Action 1 is a case where a lose stay bolt has immediately been rectified. Action 2 is a case where possibly increased clapper bush wear has been noted; immediate action has not been felt necessary but the situation needs to be checked at the next inspection, when the same tracking form will be updated.\nReporting # We cannot be dogmatic here about who should see the reports of checks and any resulting actions. This depends on the relationship between the ringers and the Church. Some points to consider are:\nThe easy way would be simply to copy reports to all personnel connected with the Church. That is also the easiest way to ensure that nobody will read them. A better way is to identify an individual within the Church who takes an interest and accepts the responsibility of maintaining contact with the ringers – in the Church of England, this might be one of the Churchwardens. Another way is for one of the ringers to be a member of the local Church organisation – the Parochial Church Council maybe. A further way is for the Steeple Keeper to present an annual report to the Church, preferably in person. Any major incidents would, of course, be reported at the time they occur. Whatever option is adopted, the records must be stored, electronically or on paper, in a form that can be recovered if the Steeple Keeper changes or is not available. Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 2.1, October 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":14,"href":"/docs/160-fault-finding/","title":"Fault Finding","section":"Docs","content":" Fault Finding # Common Problems with Bells # This downloadable PDF, originally produced as a separate document on the Central Council website, offers a way of identifying some of the more common faults with bells and indicates how they may be solved. The difficulty and urgency of each diagnosis is indicated by codes, along with a guide to permissions which may be required before work is carried out (based on the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules). Less experienced Steeple Keepers should consult the relevant chapter(s) in this document before attempting to carry out any work.\nNext Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, February 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":15,"href":"/docs/170-glossary/","title":"Glossary","section":"Docs","content":" Glossary # As with any technical subject, bell ringing and bell hanging has, over the years, developed specialist terms some of which are unique to ringing and others which have particular meaning when applied to ringing. Some other technical terms may not be familiar to ringers. We hope to have included all of these here. They are linked from the text in the various chapters. Items appearing elsewhere in the glossary are shown in Bold.\nArgent # The central boss on the crown of older bells, around which the Canons are grouped. These are used to attach the bell to the Headstock.\nBaldric (or Baldrick) # A U-shaped metal strap with leather lining, traditionally used to suspend clappers. The name originates from a belt worn over one shoulder to support a sword or bugle.\nBell Chamber # The space within a tower where the bells are situated. Sometime referred to as the \u0026ldquo;Belfry\u0026rdquo;.\nBobbins # Shaped blocks on the rim of a Wheel designed to reduce the radius of curvature as the rope emerges from the Garter Hole.\nCanons # (Sometimes \u0026lsquo;Cannons\u0026rsquo;). The loops cast onto the crown of older bells, by which the bell is suspended from the Headstock.\nClapper # The component suspended inside a bell which, when the bell is swung, strikes the bell to produce the note.\nCoach Bolts # Coach bolts (sometimes referred to as \u0026lsquo;Carriage Bolts\u0026rsquo;) are used in a bell installation for bolting a wooden component to either a metal or wooden component - most often to bolt a Stay onto a Headstock. The square section under the domed head bites into the wood, securing the head while the nut is tightened.\nDeath Watch Beetle # The Death Watch Beetle infests old damp oak and elm timbers – thus representing a threat to timber bell frames and headstocks. The adult beetle lays eggs in crevices and inside tunnels left by previous larvae. The larvae bore into the timber, feeding for up to ten years before pupating, later emerging from the wood as adult beetles. The adults attract mates by a tapping sound that can be heard in old buildings (such as churches) on quiet summer nights. The beetles can be killed by targeted use of insecticide, although a view has been expressed that prevention is better than cure.\nDiocesan Advisory Committee (DAC) # Within the Church of England, the DAC is the lead body in the diocese for advice on the care and development of church buildings; providing advice to parishes, Archdeacons, and the Diocesan Chancellor. It has a key role to promote good practice in the maintenance and development of church buildings. Before considering a faculty application, the Chancellor is obliged to take advice from the DAC. The DAC will appoint one or more DAC Bells Advisers. Towers will benefit by maintaining contact with their local Adviser.\nDrawing (ropes) # Where it is impossible to obtain a straight drop from the Ground Pulley to the ringer the rope may be ‘Drawn’ away from a straight fall. This may be accomplished by a double Ground Pulley or additional pulleys in an Intermediate Chamber.\nEllacombe Apparatus # A system intended for tune ringing, consisting of a set of hammers arranged to strike the inside of the bells, operated from the ringing room or lower in the tower by pulling sleeved ropes mounted in a frame, operated by one person. Arrangements MUST be in place to ensure that, when ringing is taking place, the hammers are pulled clear and the apparatus cannot be operated accidentally.\nFid # A pointed instrument made of wood, used to open up the strands of a bell rope for tucking in a Tail End, or to open a knot that has worked tight. A marlin spike is similar but is made of metal and should not be used on bell ropes to avoid damage to the rope. The smaller fid shown above was left at a tower as a \u0026rsquo;thank you present\u0026rsquo; by a visiting band, one of whose members is a skilled wood turner.\nFigure-eight Knot # A knot useful for temporary shortening of a Tail End or as a \u0026lsquo;stopper knot\u0026rsquo;, for example to prevent a Spider dropping too far if the cord is let slip. (The figure above shows the knot before it is pulled tight.)\nFretting # Fretting refers to wear damage of loaded surfaces in contact with little or no lubrication, encountering movement tangential to the surface. Fretting is caused by adhesion of surface asperities, which are then broken by the small movement.\nGarter Hole # A hole in the rim of a Wheel through which the rope passes in order to be secured to the spokes.\nGrease Nipple # Designs vary, but this is a device for lubricating a component with moving parts. A grease gun locks on to the nipple and grease can be pumped in. The picture above is of a grease nipple (arrowed) at the top end of a clapper, which allows lubrication of the clapper bush \u0026ndash; see Clappers. Grease nipples may be found on some ball bearing housings: these are used to charge the bearing with grease on manufacture and should not be pumped with grease during use. This is a sure way of damaging the seals on the bearing \u0026ndash; see Bearings.\nGround Pulley # A pulley in the bottom of the bell pit - the first pulley the rope passes through after leaving the Wheel. The rope passes round this pulley as the bell goes up to handstroke. If the rope does not drop vertically at backstroke there will be a second ground pulley in a double pulley block (sometimes called a \u0026lsquo;roller box\u0026rsquo;).\nGudgeons # The steel shafts fixed to the Headstock that form the axle about which the bell rotates.\nHeadstock # A wood or metal beam supporting the bell. The Wheel, Stay and Gudgeons are attached to the headstock.\nIntermediate Chamber # The space in most towers between the Ringing Rooom and the Bell Chamber. It often contains the church clock, when it may be called the \u0026ldquo;Clock Chamber\u0026rdquo;. The ropes pass through this chamber and may be drawn here to achieve a good rope circle. In many towers, this chamber is used a a general dumping ground for rubbish and this must be kept under control.\nOutside Caliper # A tool used to measure thickness. Used to check the depth of a clapper impact dent - see Bells.\nPsittacosis # Psittacosis is an infection of birds caused by the bacterium Chlamydia psittaci. Birds can transmit C. psittaci to humans; the resulting infection is also known as psittacosis or ornithosis.\nRinging Room # The space in a tower from where the bells are rung.\nSally # The tufted handgrip on a rope, used to pull at handstroke.\nSpider # A device with hooks on which bell ropes can be hung in order to be raised above head level when not in use.\nStauffer Lubricator # A screw cap lubricator used on older clapper bushes or roller box bearings. The cap is filled with grease and given a turn occasionally to force grease into the bearing. When fully turned, the cap is removed and re-filled with grease.\nStay # Wooden bar attached to a Headstock that under normal usage prevents a bell moving beyond the point of balance when set.\nTail End # The end of the rope, usually doubled back on itself (except for Yorkshire tail ends), used to pull at backstroke.\nTwiddle Pin # A threaded pin either side of a metal headstock, screwed in to contact the clapper staple. Slackening one and tightening the other allows the clapper to be moved to provide an even strike. Officially called \u0026lsquo;clapper adjustment screws\u0026rsquo; or \u0026lsquo;clapper centring pins\u0026rsquo;. See Clappers.\nWheel # A circular wooden component attached to the Headstock by which the rope is attached to the bell, permitting it to be rung full circle. See Wheels.\nImage Credits # Glossary Item Details Baldric Baldric clapper suspension at Stone, Glos. Photo: Andrew Ward Coach Bolts Photo: Robin Shipp Fid Photo: Robin Shipp Figure-eight Knot Photo: Robin Shipp Grease Nipple Enlarged from a photo by Allen Nunley Outside Caliper Photo: Robin Shipp Stauffer Lubricator From Manual of Belfry Maintenance, photographer unknown Last Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, September 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":16,"href":"/docs/180-acks-and-sources/","title":"Acknowledgements \u0026 Sources","section":"Docs","content":" Acknowledgements \u0026amp; Sources # This chapter lists the people who have contributed, in various ways, to this document, and the sources which have been consulted.\nAcknowledgements # Production Software: Hugo Static Site Generator, Book Theme.\nFor technical advice: Bryn Reimer, Mark Elvers, Lucas Williams and Graham John.\nFor words, pictures, reviews, comments and general assistance: Tina Andrew, David Bagley, John Beresford, Marcus Booth, Will Bosworth, Keith Brown, Dave Clark, Graham Clifton, Tony Crabtree, Alan Frost, Alison Hodge, James Joynson, Roger Lawson, Ernie de Legh-Runciman, Julia Lysaght, Robin Milford, Alan Moult, Allen Nunley, John Payton, Chris Pickford, Chris Povey, Philip Pratt, Mark Regan, Simon Ridley, David Roskelly, Robin Shipp, Malcolm Taylor, Aveline Perez de Vera, Andrew Ward, Peter Woollam.\nSources # Beech, F (2005) Splicing Bell Ropes Illustrated. Available from CC Shop.\nBrooke, C J (1994) The Archaeology of Bellframes – Recording \u0026amp; Preservation. Institute of Field Archaeologists Buildings Special Interest Group. ISBN0 900986 13 1.\nCattermole P, (1990) Church Bells and Bell-Ringing – A Norfolk profile. Boydell Press, Woodbridge. ISBN 978-1-84383-782-4.\nCBC/EH (2011) Church Bell Frames: guidance notes for identifying historic significance and preparing reports. Online here (pdf).\nCC Towers \u0026amp; Belfries Committee (2020) Manual of Belfry Maintenance. Available from CC Shop.\nCentral Council of Church Bell Ringers (1979) Maintenance Handbook. (Out of print).\nCentral Council of Church Bell Ringers (1991) A Schedule of Regular Maintenance. ISBN 0 900271 21 1. (Out of print).\nFrost, Alan J (Ed) (2006) Towers and Bells. Available from CC Shop.\nHarrison, John (Regularly updated) Glossary of Ringing Terms. Online here.\nJennings, T S (1991) The Development of British Bell Fittings. ISBN 0 9500076 4 1 (Out of print).\nPickford, C (Undated) Bellframes – A practical guide to inspection and recording. Privately published. Available online here (note copyright restrictions).\nPrevious Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, April 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":17,"href":"/docs/040-health-and-safety/avian-flu/","title":"Avian Influenza","section":"Health \u0026 Safety","content":" Appendix: Cleaning Bell Chambers Contaminated with Bird Waste or Carcasses # With reference to avian influenza / bird flu # Birds finding their way into towers, particularly bell chambers, has been an issue that ringers have had to deal with and try to prevent for as long as bells have been hung in towers. I find it interesting to think that back in the 1300\u0026rsquo;s some monastery servant, sexton or local labourer would have been tasked with climbing the tower with a sack and a shovel to remove sticks, nests and carcasses just as I have done. The sack would have been made of sackcloth not polyethylene, but otherwise it\u0026rsquo;s a shared human experience that links my life with one perhaps 30 generations ago.\nMusings aside though, the job of clearing the sticks, feathers and carcasses is an important one and is not without its risks. At present, with avian influenza cases at a high level and special precautions and restrictions in place to try to limit its spread, we need to be more careful than ever when undertaking this least pleasant of a steeple-keeper\u0026rsquo;s tasks.\nThe risks involved fall into two basic categories: the mechanical and the biological. The mechanical risks are those you would still be exposed to in a pristine, newly built tower with a new ring of bells installed; trips, falls, proximity to heavy machinery with the potential to move suddenly, etc. For the purposes of this article, I will take these as read and move on to the biological risks.\nAs biological risks go, handling dead birds is a fairly nasty prospect. Even the dust from the feathers of a live, healthy bird can carry bacteria which cause psittacosis or other diseases. Add to this the currently increased risk of contracting H5N1 or other variants of bird flu and the need for proper precautions becomes irrefutable. This is without even mentioning such delights as post-mortem decay or droppings laden with fungi and bacteria which can cause histoplasmosis, candidiasis, cryptococcosis, St. Louis encephalitis, E. Coli, or salmonella, to name a few.\nDue to these significant risks, there is a very strong case for contracting a specialist in cases where there is a great deal of contamination and this should be considered even in moderate cases.\nIf you need to do the work yourself, the best practice for dealing with bird waste, carcasses and nest material is fairly simple and the gist of it is to avoid any contact with the hazardous materials.\nBefore embarking on a cleaning mission in the tower you need to prepare your equipment. This will include:\nFFP3 (AKA P3) filtered face masks for everyone involved in the cleaning. Overalls (disposable ones are available if you don\u0026rsquo;t have your own). Disposable gloves. Disposable overshoes. A change of clothes and shoes in a plastic bag. A shovel. A dustpan and brush. Rags or newspaper for blocking rope holes. Sturdy rubbish bags or rubble sacks. Duct tape or suitable ties to seal the bags. An industrial vacuum cleaner (with suitable filters etc). These can be hired and are very strongly recommended. Before going to the tower, you need to try on and fit your mask correctly to check that everything is as it should be. FFP3 masks usually have replaceable filter units and to be effective they must seal completely to your face. If you already have a mask, the filters should, of course, be suitably new and not clogged with dust from a previous use.\nNow you\u0026rsquo;re ready to go and clean up. Put your spare clothes and shoes in their bag and leave these in a suitable location where you can change as soon as possible after you finish cleaning. Put on your overalls, gloves and overshoes and start cleaning. First, maximise the ventilation in the bell chamber to blow away any dust raised. If possible, shut the access to the rooms below and block the rope holes with rags or newspaper as well, to keep the dust and dirt out.\nDon\u0026rsquo;t forget that disturbing nesting birds, their eggs or their nests (when being built or used) is a criminal offence punishable by an unlimited fine and up to six months in prison. If you\u0026rsquo;re not sure about the status of a nest, it\u0026rsquo;s best to leave it alone.\nThe hazardous material is now carefully placed in the bags using the shovel, dustpan, and brush (with minimal dust being raised) and the bags sealed with ties or tape when full. Don\u0026rsquo;t overfill the bags either, you need to be able to get them down the tower! If a suitable vacuum cleaner is available then dust should be picked up with it at the earliest opportunity. The brush should be used only as a last resort and then sparingly and slowly.\nHaving completed your glamorous task, you now have to seal each bag of hazardous waste inside another clean bag. Then remove all the bags, cleaning equipment, and other detritus from the belfry to wherever is most suitable (definitely not the ringing room).\nThen vacuum (or go outside and brush) any debris from your overalls.\nNow retire to the churchyard and remove your overalls, overshoes, and finally gloves, placing each in a rubbish bag as you remove them and seal the bag. Now you need to wash your hands very thoroughly and then change your clothes for the spare set. Put the clothes you were wearing into the spare clothes bag and launder them at the first opportunity. Shoes should be cleaned in whatever way is most suitable.\nThe bags of waste cannot be put into domestic waste collections but must be taken to your local waste disposal site.\nAll of the above is, of course, procedure for the worst case scenario where your tower has a significant amount of hazardous material. If the mess is limited to a couple of deceased avian visitors and a whole lot of ordinary dust then you can simplify the drill very greatly although the mask, gloves and vacuum cleaner are always to be strongly recommended.\nYou might be tempted to skip all of the protective equipment but when it comes down to it, it\u0026rsquo;s your health that\u0026rsquo;s at risk and surely that\u0026rsquo;s worth a whole lot of trouble? Read about some of the diseases I mentioned earlier and you won\u0026rsquo;t need persuading.\nFurther information on the topic is available from various sources, some of which are below:\nRemoving and disposing of dead wild birds (HSE)\nWorking with highly pathogenic avian influenza virus(HSE)\nBird flu (avian influenza): latest situation in England (UK Government)\nBack to Health \u0026amp; Safety Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0, February 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":18,"href":"/docs/120-ropes/rope-driers/","title":"Rope Driers","section":"Ropes","content":" Appendix: Rope Driers for Bell Towers - Some Suggestions # Ringers may wish to use a ‘rope drier’ to reduce stiffness in bell ropes that become damp in an unheated ringing room. Driers are usually designed and assembled by volunteers. However, questions have been raised about some of the rope driers that have been seen during checks and inspections of churches and towers. For non-ringers, it is not immediately evident what the units are used for or how they are to be used. Being electrical equipment fitted with a mains power plug, the concern is reasonable.\nWe offer suggestions that should be considered when ringers are designing and constructing a rope drier. This is not a definitive guide; knowledgeable and experienced people should design the rope drier using appropriately specified parts, assembled according to manufacturers’ instructions.\nTechnical # A low wattage (typically 10-20W) heater of the type used for electronics cabinets (often referred to as an ‘enclosure heater’). Datasheets provided with such devices can be used to select the type of heater suitable for the volume of the rope drier Filament light bulbs should NOT be used as a heat source. The surface of the bulb gets very hot and, if broken, live wires are exposed. 13A power supply using UK standard 3 pin plug and appropriately rated flex Thermostat Timer to enable drier to be operated for a limited period before ringing On / off switch on the unit itself (as well as with mains socket) Warning pilot “on light” on the unit Over-temperature cut-out Residual current device Materials and parts used must not be combustible or flammable Adequate air flow to enable moisture to escape, not drip or condense particularly onto electrical parts Design # Dust and rope debris cannot build up on the heater Heater cannot be touched by people or the ropes while warm Easily cleaned inside and outside Easy to install ropes correctly and remove them Easy to disassemble and reassemble safely for portability Cannot be disassembled while electrically powered Compact for safe storage when not in use during ringing Stable when in use Documentation # Electrical and mechanical design and construction should be documented and retained with the unit Instructions for use and routine maintenance (including cleaning) should be available with the unit Unit should be labelled as to its function Drier should be included in register of electrical equipment for routine testing (PAT) Back to Ropes Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0, June 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"}] \ No newline at end of file +[{"id":0,"href":"/docs/010-introduction/","title":"Introduction","section":"Docs","content":" Introduction # Details of a bell installation are out of sight and out of mind for a surprising number of ringers but will soon be obvious if their upkeep is neglected. At the least, the bells may become progressively more difficult to handle, leading to poor striking, discouraging ringers and frightening away learners. At worst, it could result in expensive damage to the installation.\nThis online document is addressed primarily at Steeple Keepers, who are responsible for carrying out the activities described here. Their role, appointment and experience levels are described here. We also provide a guide to finding your way around the whole document.\nThe Steeple Keeper # There are many different sorts of bell installations and many different types of Steeple Keeper. We will need to generalise: please use common sense where necessary to refer our words to your own case. Role # A Steeple Keeper (there may be alternative names) is someone who has been appointed to maintain a bell installation in a safe and effective working condition. The ways in which an appointment may be made are covered in Formal Requirements.\nThe role involves regular checks, responding to incidents, carrying out maintenance within the level of their experience, and referring problems to specialists (usually Bell Hangers) where necessary.\nA Steeple Keeper may be able to obtain help from their ringing society or association. Note the following announcement which appeared in the 26 January 2024 issue of The Ringing World.\nDo ringing societies have information about people in their area who are involved in belfry maintenance work? If so, would you be willing to share any data (anonymised) with the CCCBR Stewardship \u0026amp; Management Workgroup?\nWe hear that the number of people willing and able to do maintenance work in belfries seems to be reducing, and that their age profile is very high (mainly over 60). Their diversity is almost exclusively white male! Are these observations typical and how pervasive? This is what we hope to find out more rigorously and, if so, consider what are we doing as ringers to make sure that we will have people in future who are competent to help maintain the bells that we ring.\nIf you are willing and able to help, then please contact the Workgroup Leader, by email at smlead@cccbr.org.uk.\nExperience levels # This document is NOT intended to provide a qualification system for Steeple Keepers. Rather, we adopt the descriptive terms defined below in bold:\nA Novice Steeple Keeper is one learning the task. We hope this document will be helpful, but the main instruction will come from local experts, both in formal courses and one-to-one practical demonstrations, supported by wider reading and other information, often backed by technical and engineering knowledge and experience. A Typical Steeple Keeper will have carried out all the routine tasks relevant to their own tower under supervision and will then be capable of carrying them out without supervision; most importantly, they will be capable of recognising cases where they do need to seek guidance. Most Steeple Keepers will fall into this category. An Experienced Steeple Keeper will have experience of a wide range of installations and their potential problems (although they will never make the mistake of thinking they know it all). They will play a role in the task of aiding others in the transition from Novice to Typical Steeple Keeper. In some cases, we will identify tasks which must be carried out by a Specialist, often a Bell Hanger. The fittings and materials of a bell installation may not be familiar to a standard engineering contractor and care must be taken in selecting any other than a specialist Bell Hanger.\nIn this document, we are using the term ‘Bell Hanger’, be they an individual or a company, as having experience in bell installations and meeting the regulatory and insurance requirements to carry out this work. Finding Your Way Round this Document # Links to chapters are in the left-hand side navigation menu and links to sections within each chapter are in the right-hand navigation menu. If you are using a small screen you may need to click on the menu bars (three stacked horizontal lines) in the top left or right to access these menus.\nWithin the text, links to sections within the current chapter, to other chapters, and to external web references are shown in blue. Links shown in bold italic blue refer to entries in the \u0026lsquo;Glossary\u0026rsquo; chapter.\nEach chapter covers a major component part of a bell installation. The following points should be noted:\nThese are not intended as a complete historical description of the component. They provide enough background for the reader to recognise which of the many types of installation they may encounter and the problems which may occur. The basic checks which need to be carried out are described. The maintenance which a Typical Steeple Keeper can carry out is described, and activities that must be referred to a Specialist (usually a professional Bell Hanger) are clearly identified. Some chapters are common to all components of an installation. Please read them: they are important and some have legal implications. They are:\nFormal Requirements covers the need for ringers to recognise the authority responsible for the tower and its fittings, and the need to establish a good working relationship with them. Relevant regulations are described and outline descriptions are given of differences in jurisdictions other than the Church of England. Faculty Jurisdiction Rules covers the legally based rules which apply within Church of England jurisdiction, with specific guidance on those most relevant to ringers. Health \u0026amp; Safety provides guidance on the practical application of Health \u0026amp; Safety principles within the bell chamber. If You Are Just Starting Out # It may be that you have just ‘inherited’ a new tower – perhaps one where there has been no checking or maintenance for a number of years. Where do you start? For either a Novice or a Typical Steeple Keeper, we strongly recommend that you initiate a full inspection by an expert – ideally a Bell Hanger or a Belfry Adviser in your local Guild or Association. This will provide a baseline for drawing up a schedule for your own regular checking and maintenance (see Maintenance Schedule).\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Hawkesbury, Gloucestershire, new ring of 8 bells, cast by Allanconi in Italy, 2020, installed by Matthew Higby. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.2.2, January 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":1,"href":"/docs/020-permissions/","title":"Formal Requirements","section":"Docs","content":" Formal Requirements # With very few exceptions, the bell ringers do not own the bells. There will usually be what we will term an Authorising Body that will have a legal responsibility for the tower and its contents.\nThe Steeple Keeper should be formally appointed by the Authorising Body in a clear, democratic, and traceable way, probably for a defined period of time. Once appointed, the Steeple Keeper should maintain contact with the Authorising Body at frequent intervals. While this applies to all ringers, it is particularly important for the Steeple Keeper because the operation and needs of a bell installation may not be familiar to the average member of an Authorising Body.\nRequirements within the Church of England # Of the over 7000 rings of bells in the world, around 90% are within the jurisdiction of the Church of England (CoE). This document is aimed world-wide, however, and we also provide further information in Other Jurisdictions.\nThe ChurchCare website provides useful general information.\nAuthorising Body # Within the Church of England this role is usually filled by the Churchwardens and the Parochial Church Council (PCC). The legal ownership of the bells is vested in the Churchwardens. The PCC has a duty for the use, maintenance and insurance of the bells.\nRingers must remember that Churchwardens and PCC members are volunteers, with many responsibilities other than the bells. The Steeple Keeper (and other members of the band) should build up good relations with them. This should involve, at least:\nInforming them of all activities associated with the bell installation. Warning them of any problems with the installation. Involving them in important decisions. Being in a position to discuss any church restoration or alteration projects which may have implications for the bell installation. Useful guidance is here. Faculty Jurisdiction Rules # The Faculty Jurisdiction Rules, discussed in more detail here, cover the permissions required to carry out changes to a church. They are legal requirements, and the Church Wardens and PCC members are liable for action if they are not followed. Any changes to the bell installation must be discussed with the Church Wardens and PCC to establish what action may be needed under the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules.\nEcclesiastical Exemption # A Steeple Keeper is unlikely to be involved in the workings of the Ecclesiastical Exemption, but it is worth understanding the principle, as this drives the need for the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules.\nThe Ecclesiastical Exemption provides a mechanism for certain denominations to be exempted from the listed building consent systems administered by local planning authorities. In July 2010, the Department for Culture, Media and Sport issued revised Guidance on the Order covering the operation of the Ecclesiastical Exemption for places of worship in England. This is relevant to bell installations within the Church of England and the Roman Catholic Church in England.\nQuoting the Guidance: “The 2010 Order limits the Ecclesiastical Exemption to certain buildings within the care of specified denominations which have demonstrated that they operate acceptable internal procedures for dealing with proposed works to listed ecclesiastical buildings …”. The Faculty Jurisdiction Rules are the “acceptable internal procedures” for the Church of England. Arrangements for the other jurisdictions are covered in Other Jurisdictions.\nArchaeologically significant sites # When repairs or alterations to or in historic churches and/or churchyards are under consideration the potential for archaeological implications should always be borne in mind. A guide to church building works with archaeological implications is available here. For a bell installation, the most likely case would be the removal or modification of a historic bell frame. For this, the Church would need to produce a Statement of Significance and the Steeple Keeper would need to contribute their knowledge and experience to this.\nProtected wildlife # For a church tower, bats are the most likely case of protected wildlife – and this is a case where the Steeple Keeper may be the first to detect a possible problem. The Bat Conservation Trust provides useful information here.\nFigure 1: Nesting boxes for swifts installed in tower louvres\nThere may also be restrictions concerning certain species of birds in the nesting season. Churches can make a positive contribution by providing nest sites. Figure 1 shows nesting boxes installed for swifts – a species that is declining due to lack of suitable nest sites. The birds are flourishing and not bothered by the noise of the bells. Further information is given here.\nIf you have access to The Ringing World, Alistair Whybrow has two articles describing the installation of swift boxes at Kingsteignton, Devon: Bell chambers offer sanctuary for swifts, 7 December 2018 (p1224) and Swift boxes have success in second year!, 29 November 2019 (p1172). Other Jurisdictions # Differences between national laws (even within the devolved parts of the United Kingdom) and between various religious denominations complicate any simple guidance. The following sections provide an initial and incomplete summary which we hope to extend and refine.\nChurches Conservation Trust (CCT) # The online Edition of Dove’s Guide (as of 29 May 2022) records an overall total of 119 full circle rings of 3 or more bells in the care of the CCT, of which 69 are considered to be in a ringable condition. The Trust is striving to put their churches back at the hearts of the communities in which they stand. To this end, they are very encouraging for any groups to use them, and that includes bell ringing.\nCCT churches do not require a faculty in the same way as the Church of England; permission is obtained from the CCT area management. The CCT does not benefit from the Ecclesiastical Exemption, so major work will require listed building consent as appropriate. There may be differences in the approach of various CCT Regions but the general advice is to remain on good terms with the local and Area CCT staff.\nEnglish Cathedrals # Within the CoE jurisdiction, the legal process for cathedrals run parallel with parish church legislation passed by Synod via the Church Commissioners and Parliament. The Ecclesiastical Exemption covers all CoE buildings, fixtures and fittings. The amenity groups have a statutory right to be consulted.\nFor Cathedrals the Cathedrals Fabric Commission for England (CFCE) is the equivalent of the Church Buildings Council (CBC). There is more Government and amenity group involvement in the CFCE committees. Each of the cathedrals has its own Fabric Advisory Committee (FAC). This equates to each cathedral having its own Diocesan Advisory Committee. All the cathedrals and churches committees sit within the CBC.\nIreland # In the Church of Ireland (which includes churches in Northern Ireland), applications up to a specified amount are made through the incumbent and the Select Vestry (the equivalent of the PCC in England) to the appropriate Diocesan Council. Financial limits vary (in the Diocese of Limerick for example the limit is €10,000). For major works, applicants visit the Church of Ireland website and download the P5 form, which is self-explanatory.\nThe three RC churches in Ireland that have bells (Mount St Alphonsus, SS Augustine \u0026amp; John and Rowe Street) all come under different jurisdictions. Mount St Alphonsus \u0026ldquo;belongs to the Redemptorists and decisions regarding infrastructure would be made by our provincial council in consultation with the Rector of Mount St Alphonsus and with the advice of our buildings officer\u0026rdquo;. John\u0026rsquo;s Lane is an Augustinian church so it would be appropriate to apply through their priest to their Order. Rowe Street Wexford would follow the same procedure as the RC churches in England.\nThere is no Ecclesiastical Exemption in the Republic of Ireland. Bodies responsible for a place of worship included on the list of protected structures are required to gain agreement from the local authority for any works of alteration – both inside and out.\nFor Northern Island, a consultation on Ecclesiastical Exemption held in 2016 included views that the Exemption should be abandoned, as for the Republic. However, the Minister for Communities concluded that the Ecclesiastical Exemption should continue.\nIsle of Man # Although the Isle of Man is part of the Church of England (indeed the oldest established diocese in the CoE), and comes under the Archdiocese of York, it is not subject to UK domestic law. Hence, the UK Faculty Jurisdiction Rules and all other UK church law do not apply to the Isle of Man. However, the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules are copied into Manx Law with some minor differences.\nA fundamental difference is that the Ecclesiastical Exemption does not apply in the Isle of Man. For faculty applications that need civil planning approval, this must be obtained before any formal faculty application is made.\nScotland # Historic Environment Scotland provide guidance (pdf download) on the operation of the Ecclesiastical Exemption in Scotland.\nWales # The Faculty Procedure in the Church of Wales (CoW) is similar but not identical to that in the Church of England (CoE). For example, the CoE allow more works under their Lists A and B items than the CoW. The CoE also allow Archdeacons to approve List B items, while approval of the Diocesan Registrar is required in the CoW.\nA Faculty is required for works outside lists A and B. This needs to be approved by a Diocesan Chancellor (normally a secular judge) before the works can proceed.\nUnlike the Church of England, the Church in Wales owns its churches which are essentially held in trust (formally called the Representative Body of the Church in Wales).\nFollowing a consultation in 2018, Ecclesiastical Exemption broadly similar to that in the Church of England has been implemented in Wales.\nOutside the British Isles # We do not yet have detailed information from Australia/New Zealand, North America, or other towers outside the British Isles. Australia/New Zealand and North America have an increasing number of ringing towers, with a variety of religious denominations. Currently, we suggest you contact their ringing societies (both affiliated to the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers) for more information:\nAustralian and New Zealand Association of Bellringers North American Guild of Change Ringers (USA and Canada) Image Credits # Figure Details 1 Swift nesting boxes installed at Wingrave, Buckinghamshire. (Photo: Alison Hodge, used with permission from Alan Frost) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.3, March 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":2,"href":"/docs/030-faculty-rules/","title":"Faculty Jurisdiction Rules","section":"Docs","content":" Faculty Jurisdiction Rules # This chapter refers to activities carried out in churches within the jurisdiction of the Church of England. Ringers must remember that the Rules are set out in law, with possible penalties if they are not followed. Meeting the Rules is the responsibility of the Churchwardens and the Parochial Church Council, and ringers must use their specialist knowledge to assist the Church authorities in any application. Guidance should be sought from the Diocesan Secretary, The Diocesan Bell Advisor, and the local Guild or Association. Ringers are probably aware that a Faculty may be required prior to work being done in a Church of England Church. The faculty process exempts churches from listed building consent and conservation area consent that could apply elsewhere. When alterations are proposed, the parish must present the proposals to the archdeacon. For minor alterations, the archdeacon may authorise the work but more major projects will be judged by the Chancellor of the diocese, taking advice from specialists in the Diocesan Advisory Committee. The faculty is the legal authorisation of the work by the Chancellor.\nThe faculty system is a judicial system, so these notes reflect this style. Parishes and ringers intending do any work in their tower or on their bells must consider the full implications of the Rules.\nBackground # The Faculty Jurisdiction Rules 2015 were introduced with the intention of simplifying the faculty process and reducing the burden of administration, in particular for churchwardens and others in parishes with responsibility for church buildings. The major innovation of the 2015 Rules was the introduction of Lists A and B for items that could be undertaken without a faculty, subject to some general conditions stipulated in the Schedule.\nA useful guide to the application of Lists A and B contains the following advice:\nThe works in List A may be undertaken without faculty and without informing your archdeacon. They are to allow for the routine maintenance and inspection of bells that are in regular use and where there is a tower captain, or other person, who has sufficient skills and knowledge to ensure that the work is done with due regard to health and safety and the protection of historically significant parts of the installation. List A does not permit work requiring a bell to be lifted from its bearings or making alterations to an installation.\nWorks in List B require the Archdeacon to be consulted to confirm that a faculty is not needed. The Archdeacon will take advice from the DAC and its bells adviser before giving notice that the proposals may be undertaken without a faculty, or advising that they require a full faculty application.\nAs with List A, these works should only be carried out by persons with sufficient skills and knowledge to complete the work to a satisfactory standard, with due regard to Health and Safety and the protection of historically significant parts of the installation. This may require a bellhanger to carry out or oversee the works.\nAlthough a series of relatively minor works may be all that is necessary to bring an installation back into use, the provisions of List B are principally for bells in regular use. If an installation is being brought back into use after a period of over 5 years a professional bell hanger must be consulted to see that all aspects of the ring are fit for use.\nList B cannot be used for works that require the removal of the bell from the belfry or for works that involve drilling, tuning, or other work that would make a lasting change to the bell.\nThe Rules were amended in 2019 and again in 2022. The full version of the latest guidance is here.\nItems Most Likely to be of Relevance for Ringers # The extracts given below are from Scedule 1 of the (very long) document referenced above and are relevant to bells and associated fittings, and also to clocks. Church clocks are included here because they are typically housed in the church tower and in many cases use the ringing bells as clock bells. Selected items from the Church building section which may be relevant to a Steeple Keeper are also included.\nPlease note that, if you need to be involved in preparing a Faculty, the extracts below are not a substitute for the full document. List A # As stated above, items in List A may simply be undertaken (within the specified conditions) by a parish without a faculty and without the need for any form of consultation. The Steeple Keeper will work closely with the parish in discussions on these.\nA1. Church building, etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(4) The repair or like for like replacement of wire mesh window guards\rOnly non-corroding fixings are used and, where practicable, are fixed in mortar joints\r(5) The treatment of timber against beetle or fungal activity where the church is not a listed building\rThe works do not involve the replacement of timber\r(17) The installation of bat boxes as part of a bat management programme\r(19) The installation of bird netting to tower windows\rA3. Bells etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) The inspection and routine maintenance of bells, bell fittings and bell frames\rNo tonal alterations are made to any bell\nNo bell is lifted from its bearings\n(2) The repair and maintenance of clappers, crown staples (including re-bushing) and bell wheels\rWorks do not include the re-soling or re-rimming of a bell wheel\nNo bell is lifted from its bearings\n(3) The repair or replacement of bell stays, pulleys, bell ropes (including in Ellacombe apparatus), rope bosses, sliders or slider gear\rNo bell is lifted from its bearings\r(4) The repainting of metal bell frames and metal bell fittings\rNo bell is lifted from its bearings\rA4. Clocks # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) The inspection and routine maintenance of clocks and clock dials\rWorks do not include re-painting or re-gilding of clock dials or repainting clock movements\r(2) Maintenance and like-for-like repairs, without removing the clock from the church, of:\n(a) ratchets, clicks and click springs on flies\n(b)locking levers\n(c)pulleys\n(d)broken hands\n(e)clock hammers and their springs\n(3) Replacement of:\n(a)weight lines\n(b)suspension springs\n(c)fixings of clock dials\n(4) The reinstallation of disconnected hands and numerals\rWorks do not include re-painting or re-gilding of clock dials or repainting clock movements\r(5) Repairs to bell cranks and clock bell hammers\r(6) The upgrading of electrical control devices and programmers\rAny work to an electrical installation is carried out by a person whose work is subject to an accredited certification scheme (as defined in rule 3.1(6))\rList B # This table prescribes items which may, subject to any specified conditions, be undertaken without a faculty if the archdeacon has been consulted on the proposal to undertake the matter and has given notice in writing that the matter may be undertaken without a faculty. The archdeacon may impose additional conditions in the written notice. The Steeple Keeper will provide technical assistance in preparation of the proposal to the archdeacon.\nB1. Church building, etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(4) The treatment of timber against beetle or fungal activity where the church is not a listed building\rThe works do not involve the replacement of timber\r(19) The introduction of bird boxes\rB2. Bells etc # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) The lifting of a bell to allow the cleaning of bearings and housings\rRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(2) The like for like replacement of—\n(a)bearings and their housings\n(b)gudgeons\n(c)crown staple assembly\n(d)steel or cast iron headstocks\n(e)wheels\nRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nThe works do not involve the drilling or turning of the bell\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(3) The replacement of—\n(a)bell bolts\n(b)a wrought iron clapper shaft with a wooden-shafted clapper\nRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(4) The treatment of timber bell frames with preservative or insecticide materials\r(5) The re-pinning or re-facing of hammers in Ellacombe apparatus\rRegard is had to any guidance issued by the Church Buildings Council\nNo modification is made to the manner in which any bell may be sounded\nNo historic material is modified or removed\n(6) The installation of an electric silent ringing device for the training of ringers\rAny work to an electrical installation or electrical equipment is carried out by a person whose work is subject to an accredited certification scheme (as defined in rule 3.1(6))\nThe device is installed in a location not normally visible to the public\nNo alteration is made to the fittings of the bells other than the installation of electric contacts and wires\nThe device does not adversely affect the church’s protection against lightning\n(7) The installation of louvres in a belfry as a sound control measure\rAny fixings are made into mortar\r(8) The introduction of peal boards in a location not normally visible to the public\rB3. Clocks # Matter\rSpecified conditions\r(1) Alterations to striking trains to prevent striking at night\rNo part of the clock movement is affected\r(2) The repair or replacement of electrical or electronic clocks manufactured after 1950\rImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture St Swithun, Leonard Stanley, Gloucestershire. A Church of England building on a beautiful day - just to brighten up what might be a rather dry chapter. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.2.2, March 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":3,"href":"/docs/040-health-and-safety/","title":"Health \u0026 Safety","section":"Docs","content":" Health \u0026amp; Safety # Consideration of Health \u0026amp; Safety (H\u0026amp;S) is important for all activities within a tower. This chapter covers the specific aspects of H\u0026amp;S when carrying out routine checks and basic maintenance in the bell chamber, in any tower.\nNote that there will be an Authorising Body for work carried out in a tower. Within the Church of England this will be the Churchwardens and the Parochial Church Council; different arrangements may apply in other jurisdictions – see Formal Requirements. Members of this body may not be familiar with aspects of working on bell installations and the ringers must explain and agree their methods of working. Note that this does not detract from the ringers’ own responsibility for safe working. There is a range of legal requirements must be followed and guidance from the UK Health \u0026amp; Safety Executive is available here (pdf). While many of these requirements are written as if only for those in employment, most also apply to volunteers. We identify here general rules intended to help identify potential hazards and to reduce risks to those involved. We recognise that an appropriate balance must be achieved between making the activity achievable while reducing the level of risk to that which is as low as reasonably possible.\nTopics Relevant to Work in the Bell Chamber # Protecting workers in the bell chamber # Accidental or malicious interference with the bell ropes may present a hazard when work is being carried out in the Bell Chamber. The extent of risk depends on the accessibility of the Ringing Room – this is a particular problem for ground-floor rings. Possible solutions are:\nMaking sure that someone is present in the Ringing Room. This may not be possible unless routine checks and maintenance are being carried out on the same day as general tower housekeeping. Your expected time of completion is known by others and that they check that you return on schedule. Warning notices – an example is shown in the Title Figure (but do not rely on this alone). Hoisting the ropes on a spider. For ground-floor or otherwise accessible ringing rooms this may require a locking system for the spider. Hoisting the ropes up into a secure intermediate room, or even into the bell chamber. Consider security of the building while working upstairs – an open church and tower would enable unauthorised access and could pose risks to those working upstairs. A secured building could prevent access by help in an emergency. Could people upstairs be locked in accidentally by a well-meaning person who was unaware? Arrangements will have to be considered for the building in question, taking account of factors such as other users, access routes and key holders. Working conditions # Bell chambers present significant hazards when moving around. The following points should be noted:\nWhere possible, maintain three points of contact when making a move. Test any footholds before applying weight. Beware of damaged or rotten floorboards. Do not try to carry large and / or heavy items: Pull bags of tools, etc, up by rope rather than carrying them up ladders. Where possible, have assistants to pass items safely. Remember that bells, wheels and ropes will move if force is applied. Be aware of heavy weights. For example, be prepared to take a significant weight if you are supporting a clapper which is about to be removed. Some people may wish to bring a radio or listen to music or other media while working in a tower. This is not recommended (whether with headphones or stand-alone equipment) as people should be able to communicate with each other clearly, particularly if an emergency should arise. Ladders and working at heights # Very few towers were constructed with the working platforms, ladders and guard rails that would be built into a newly designed and constructed building. Not all tower staircases even have handrails. Anyone working in a tower must therefore consider how they will access and manoeuvre in and around the bell frame and installation. Remember that some timber – whether ladders, flooring, or other planks and boarding – may be rotten or decayed so not strong enough to take the weight of one or more people perhaps also with the additional weight of heavy items such as a clapper.\nHazardous materials # Where chemicals are used, the container must be checked for health warnings. For example, white spirit has traditionally been used for cleaning oil and grease spills. But white spirit is harmful to skin and the lungs, and is difficult to dispose of safely. Fortunately, safer materials with low volatile organic compounds (VOC) are now available and should be used instead.\nIf any repainting involves removal of old paint, be aware that this may contain lead. Get advice from an expert.\nAfter work is complete, any paints, chemicals and cleaning products, as well as brushes and rags used to apply them, must be removed from the tower. They should be stored if likely to be reused in appropriate clean dry conditions according to the manufacturers’ instructions, with empty containers and rubbish disposed of safely.\nBird or bat droppings can carry infections such as psittacosis from birds. If extensive, a specialist should be employed for cleaning. See the appendix to this chapter for further information, including the risk of Avian Flu.\nAlthough less likely in a church tower, there may be old asbestos boarding or lagging in towers. As a hint, if plumbing is or has been installed – for example water tanks and pipework – this may well have been lagged with materials that are now recognised as hazardous.\nPersonal protective equipment # Suitable personal protective equipment should be worn when working in the bell chamber:\nA boiler suit or, more often nowadays, reinforced workwear. Non-slip safety boots, with steel toecaps and good ankle support. Protective gloves suitable for the task undertaken. Face mask and eye protection, especially for when sanding or creating dust, cleaning up dust and debris, or drilling above head height. If work is being carried out at various levels, a hard hat should be worn to protect against falling objects; for working under bells a bump cap may be preferable (although this will not protect against falling objects). Examples of gloves, hard hat and bump cap, and safety boots are shown in Figure 1.\nFigure 1: Typical personal protective equipment\nFire protection # Naked flames and other heat sources should never be used in a tower; smoking is forbidden! Also remember that, when cutting or drilling, swarf and the hole being created may become hot. Swarf may even be hot enough to start a fire if it builds up in contact with other flammable substances.\nWorking alone # In general, you should NOT work alone in a bell chamber. The only possible relaxation is if someone else is in the tower and in contact with you: the most likely case is when you are fitting a new rope and the helper is in the ringing room holding the bottom end at the correct height.\nBell chambers offer many opportunities for slips, trips and falls. If one of those led to injury when working alone, how would you summon help? You might have a mobile phone – but that could be damaged or you might be unconscious. Will there even be a reliable signal and do you know who to call in an emergency? You might have told someone what you were doing – but how long would it take them to realise what had happened?\nMoving bells # It may be necessary to swing a bell through a small angle – for example, to listen for noise in the bearings. Remember that it is difficult, even impossible, to stop a moving bell. So be very careful where you place head, hands and feet when a bell is moving, even by a small amount. Make sure that co-workers are aware when a bell is to be moved by someone else.\nCan you work on bells when ‘up’? # In general, you should NOT carry out work in the bell chamber when any bell is ‘up’. Even moving past an ‘up’ bell to reach one that is ‘down’ may pose unacceptable risks.\nThe only likely relaxation is where it is necessary to observe a bell while a second person is ringing it – to check for rope handling problems, for example, or to check if a newly fitted Hastings stay is binding on the quadrant. Based on a risk assessment, the observer MUST position themself out of any danger (including consideration of the possibility of ejection of a broken clapper) and MUST wear ear protection. Most importantly, the observer MUST be able to contact the ringer immediately in case of any problem. Ideally another person should be present in the bell chamber, again well out of the way of danger.\nLighting and electrical equipment # This section concerns the bell chamber. General lighting issues throughout the tower are covered in Running a Tower. A good starting point is for the bell chamber to be well lit with professionally installed lighting. But that is not always available and, in any case, additional lighting may be needed: for example, when working under the bells. In the past, this usually required inspection lamps with trailing mains cables. But the availability of bright, portable, battery powered LED lights removes the risks of tripping and electrocution posed by mains lighting. An LED head torch is invaluable, especially when working in cramped conditions. Examples of an LED head torch and portable light are shown in Figure 2.\nFigure 2: Examples of portable LED lights\nIf there is no natural lighting in the bell chamber, then more than one light source should be always on. It is very easy to break a lamp or for batteries to fail, leaving those in the bell chamber in complete darkness. Remember that it may get dark while you are working in the tower later in the afternoon or evening!\nA general rule is that mains power tools with trailing leads should be avoided in the ringing chamber. If it is essential, a risk assessment must be carried out and great care exercised to make sure that the cables do not get damaged or add yet more trip hazards. Remember that portable battery power tools are available for almost all tasks likely to be carried out by a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nUsed of closed-circuit TV # Some churches have installed closed-circuit TV systems allowing a choice of views of (a) the interior of the church (checking for progress of a wedding) and (b) the bell chamber (useful for open day visits). The latter can also be useful in maintaining contact between the Ringing Room and the Bell Chamber during maintenance work.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Typical warning notice. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 1 Examples of typical protective wear: gloves, hard hat, bump cap, safety boots. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 2 Examples of LED lighting: head torch, portable light. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, November 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":4,"href":"/docs/050-bell-frames/","title":"Bell Frames","section":"Docs","content":" Bell Frames # The bell frame is the structure which supports the bells. It fulfils several main roles:\nIt provides rigidity with an economy of materials and compactness It transmits the vertical and horizontal forces arising from the movement of the bells to the tower walls It provides a fair circle of ropes in the ringing room The design of bell frames has developed over the years as the need changed from simple chiming to full circle ringing, and as newer materials became available. The history is fascinating but outside the remit of this document. Here, we will describe the types of frames most likely to be encountered and the care which a Typical Steeple Keeper can provide in each case.\nThe Title Picture identifies the parts of a timber frame and provides a good starting point. A more complete account of the development of bell frames is given in Chapter 4 of the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers Towers and Bells publication.\nTypes of Bell Frames # Timber frames # Figure 1: Timber frame, showing tie bolts (A) and bearings (B)\nThe frame shown in Figure 1 is dated c1899 but has modern fittings. Note the tie bolts (A) and the ball bearings (B) mounted on the frame-heads. Very early timber frames relied on morticed joints on the braces between the sills and frame-heads but, with shrinkage of the wood, these did not provide sufficient rigidity of the frame. Timber frames now rely on tie bolts for rigidity.\nThe excellent Title Picture shows vertical tie bolts although, unfortunately, they are not labelled. New timber frames are uncommon now but may still be supplied. In many cases, steel girders replace the timber foundation beams.\nComposite frames # Figure 2: Cast iron cross brace on a timber frame\nWith the availability of cast iron, composite frames were introduced with iron braces bolted to timber sills and frame-heads (Figure 2). Several of these are still in use and, if well maintained, provide rigid frames.\nIron and steel frames # Figure 3: Low-sided metal frame\nIron and steel frames may be ‘low-sided’ as shown in Figure 3, following the pattern of a timber frame but with the sill, frame-head and braces replaced by cast side-frames (arrowed) held together with steel girders.\nFigure 4: ‘H’ frame\nAn alternative is the ‘H’ frame, shown in Figure 4. As you can see, the top of the frame is above the bell, with the bearings at half-height. This arrangement is often used where space is limited and the bells are hung in two or more tiers (in this tower the lighter bells are hung in a higher tier) but ‘H’ frames all on one level are not uncommon.\nRadial frames # Figure 5: Radial frame at Washington Cathedral\nFor completeness, we should mention radial frames (Figure 5). The traditional design, with bells swinging at right angles, can result in torsional stress on the tower and this is minimised in the radial design. This design also provides a simple and precise rope circle. This is taken still further at Liverpool Cathedral, where the radial frame is constructed from reinforced concrete. But such frames take up much more space, usually in towers constructed for the purpose, and are unlikely to be encountered by a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nCare of Bell Frames # Well-built bell frames will last for years and it is all too easy to take them for granted. But all frames can be subject to long-term degradation and the Steeple Keeper – who probably has a closer contact with the frame than most – fulfils a vital role in their care.\nTimber frames # As said above, tie bolts are essential for maintaining the rigidity of a timber frame and a check on their tightness must be built into the maintenance schedule, preferably during a dry part of the year when shrinkage of the wood will be greatest.\nWhen tightening the nut on a tie bolt, you should attempt to slacken the nut first. This checks that the nut is not simply rusted into place or has bottomed-out on the thread. If the latter, add washers below the nut. Decay generally results from long-term dampness. In the lower part of the frame, this can be where timber foundation beams enter the tower wall or where there are accumulations of dust or rubbish. The Steeple Keeper must ensure that the areas around all timbers are kept clean with no obstacles to ventilation. Beetle attack is seldom found in dry timbers.\nDecay in the top members of the frame is usually due to a leaking roof or rain driving in through the louvres. This is a matter for the church authorities.\nBirds, usually pigeons or jackdaws, must be excluded ruthlessly from towers as their nests encourage damp and harbour fungus and insects. Note that Death Watch Beetles may be found in the dead hedgerow sticks favoured by jackdaws for their nests.\nAny cases of decay or beetle attack will require specialist treatment.\nIron and steel frames # Metal frames require little maintenance, although checks should be made for loose or missing fastenings (usually a rare occurrence). However, these frames need to be cleaned and repainted every 10 or 20 years. This is not a simple job, and the use of a Bell Hanger should be considered. Many girders may be located close to the walls, making their outer surface difficult to access, and vulnerable points where girders meet the tower walls may require the use of ladders or scaffolds.\nLightning protection on metal frames # Lightning strikes on high buildings like church towers are not unusual, and all towers should be protected by properly installed and regularly checked lighting conductors, which take the charge to earth (electrically and literally). While this is not the responsibility of the ringers, there is a \u0026lsquo;connection\u0026rsquo;, in that metal bell frames must be bonded to the lightning conductor system. An example is shown arrowed in Figure 6, where the bond is to the bottom of one of the main support girders. Details may vary on other installations.\nFigure 6: Bonding of a metal bell frame to the church lighting conductor\nThe reason for bonding is that lightning will take the path of least resistance to earth. For a strike on an unbonded metal frame, that path may be down damp ropes or clock hammer linkages. This could result in fires, damage to masonry, electric shocks and damage to electrical equipment in the church.\nA properly installed bond should not deteriorate but, as the Steeple Keeper is likely to see the bell frame more often than other church officials, it would be prudent to identify the site of the bonding point and include a check on it in the maintenance schedule. Any problem should, of course, be reported immediately to the church authorities.\nA more detailed description of lightning protection and bell frames can be found in this downloadable PDF file. Image Credits # Figure Details Title Picture The parts of a typical timber bell frame. (Drawing © the late J G M Scott, used with permission from his family) 1 Timber frame at Thame, Oxfordshire. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Stephen Hoar) 2 Cast iron cross brace in the composite frame by John Sully of Stogumber at Almondsbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Low-sided metal frame (Whitechapel 1996) at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 ‘H’ frame (John Taylor \u0026amp; Co, 1903) at Long Ashton, Somerset. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Will Rogers) 5 Radial Frame (Mears \u0026amp; Stainbank, 1962) at Washington Cathedral, USA. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Lian von Wantoch) 6 Bonding of the bell frame to the lightning conductor at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.1.1, February 2024\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":5,"href":"/docs/060-headstocks/","title":"Headstocks","section":"Docs","content":" Headstocks # A headstock is one of the major structural elements of any bell installation, with each bell being hung from a headstock mounted on bearings on the bell frame. Each headstock carries the full weight of the bell during its rotation through just over a full circle, so they must be maintained in good condition.\nSeveral other major parts of the installation are attached to the headstock:\nDetails of how the wheel and stay are attached will be found in the relevant chapters. Details of various ways in which the bell is attached are given in this chapter. We also include here details of the attachment of the gudgeons, which fit into the bearings to form the axle about which the bell rotates. Headstocks were traditionally made of timber but, since the early 20th century, metal has been the most common choice. For the former, elm was frequently chosen because of its durability, but other hardwoods have been used. Metal headstocks can be cast iron or fabricated from steel.\nTimber Headstocks # There are many possible types of timber headstock. Mainly, they depend on whether the bell is hung from canons or whether the canons have been removed (or the bell cast with a flat top). Further details on canons can be found in Bells.\nIn early designs, the gudgeons were inserted into bosses on the headstock bound with iron hoops to prevent splitting. This is not a satisfactory arrangement and other methods have been developed. The most common is for the gudgeons to be clamped or fitted to iron or steel plates which are then secured by bolts passing up through the headstock. We will see an example of this in Care of Headstocks below.\nBell hung from canons # Figure 1: Bell with canons mounted on timber headstock\nFigure 1 shows a bell (A) supported from its canons (just visible at B) by straps (C) bolted to plates on the headstock. Note that a slot is needed on the headstock to accommodate the canons – this can be a point of weakness.\nBell hung without canons # A bell without canons – either after their removal or cast as a flat-top bell – will be attached to a timber headstock using bolts passing through the crown of the bell.\nFigure 2: Bell drilled for support; canons present but not used\nFigure 2 shows an unusual variation on this. The canons are present but are not used for support. This is provided by the long bolts (A) passing through the crown. This is an unusual timber equivalent of a clapper-retaining headstock – of which more later.\nThis view also shows (at B) the top of the crown staple bolt, supporting the clapper, the nuts (C) supporting the gudgeon plate and a better view of the extent to which the headstock is slotted to accommodate the canons.\nMetal Headstocks # With due respect to history, metal headstocks are preferable to timber where possible. They are more stable and rigid than a timber headstock and provide a more positive attachment of the gudgeons, ensuring that they remain accurately in line. The main types of metal headstocks which you may find are:\nCast metal – usually cast iron, sometimes cast steel. Fabricated steel. Canon-retaining – designed to allow canons to be retained on bells of historic value. Cast metal # Figure 3: Cast metal headstock\nFigure 3 shows a typical cast iron design, one from the former Whitechapel foundry. Note the bolts (A) supporting the bell (two on each side of the headstock) – these attach to part of the headstock casting, avoiding the need for the long strapping or bolts usually required for a timber headstock. Also note the crown staple nut (B) on top of the headstock. Metal headstocks are shorter in height than a comparable timber one and the crown staple bolt can be shorter and easier to handle when being removed or replaced.\nA further point visible on Figure 3 is that metal headstocks can be shaped in order to ‘tuck up’ the bell. That means raising the centre of gravity of the bell compared to the axis of rotation.\nThe position of the line joining the gudgeons relative to the bell is of great importance as it determines the time of swing of the bell. It is necessary for ease of handling that these times are graded within each ring of bells. It is much easier to design this with the use of metal headstocks to vary the tucking up of each bell.\nThe dynamics of a ringing bell is a fascinating subject which is unfortunately beyond the scope of this document.\nFabricated metal # Figure 4: Fabricated metal headstock\nA fabricated metal headstock provides a cheaper and perfectly acceptable option for lighter bells. The example in Figure 4 is a hollow rectangular steel beam with various attachments welded on. Note particularly the bracket (A) holding the gudgeon, allowing the bell to be tucked up.\nMetal canon-retaining headstocks # Figure 5: Metal canon-retaining headstock\nAt one time, canons were accidentally (or deliberately) broken or cut off the crown and the bell was then secured to the headstock with bolts passing through the crown. The historical value of canons is now recognised and such bells can continue in use with canon-retaining headstocks – an unusual timber example of which was seen in Figure 2.\nNowadays, canon-retaining headstocks are often made of fabricated steel, as shown in Figure 5, although some are castings. This design in Figure 5 is attractive because the canons are reasonably visible. Some designs obscure the view of the canons – which is unfortunate for an item which has been retained because of its historical value.\nCare of Headstocks # Mainly because of its role in supporting the bell, a Typical Steeple Keeper is limited to just basic checks on the headstock. While these are vital, the resolution of any problems identified will almost always need to be left to a bell hanger, defined here as an individual or company having suitable equipment and experience in bell installations, and meeting the regulatory and insurance requirements to carry out such work.\nFor those within the jurisdiction of the Church of England, the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules also need to be considered. All the relevant items in List A (items that a parish can undertake without external consultation) specify “No bell is lifted from its bearings”. List B (items that may be undertaken without a faculty provided the archdeacon is consulted and has given written authorisation) allows more freedoms ranging from “lifting of a bell to allow the cleaning of bearings and housings” to “like for like replacement of steel or cast iron headstocks”. Interpretation of these Rules can be difficult and your Diocesan Bells Adviser should be able to help.\nCare of timber headstocks # An inherent challenge with a timber headstock is that wood is not a stable material: it can change size with changes in temperature and humidity, and it can degrade with time. The result is that fastenings may work loose and key items (mainly the gudgeons) may lack dimensional stability. The need for a slot to accommodate canons may also weaken the headstock, leading to cracking.\nAs a Typical Steeple Keeper, you may not be able to rectify all of these problems but you should be able to recognise when they occur.\nAs mentioned earlier, the fastenings for the wheel and stay are covered in those chapters. Bell nuts # For a bell with canons, these are the nuts at the top of the straps connected to the canons; for a flat topped bell, they are the nuts at the end of the long bolts through the crown of the bell, passing either through the headstock or up to a plate over the top of the headstock.\nProcedure to check tightness of bell nuts\nWork on each nut (usually four) separately. Working diagonally, check the tightness of the nut by slackening it a small amount then tightening. (This checks that the nut is not rusted solid.) Additional check for bell with canons # If canons are present, the bell may not fit snugly underneath the headstock and may move, either because of rough handling or incorrect tightening of the nuts. This can be checked as follows:\nProcedure to check bell hangs true on headstock\nTie off rope to remove its weight. If the bell is fitted with an independent clapper staple, slightly loosen the clapper staple nut on top of the headstock (B on Figure 2). With a long spirit level, check the lip of the bell is horizontal (with plain bearings, this may require a nudge to settle the bell at bottom centre). Using the spirit level, and taking care not to move the bell, check that headstock is vertical. If this is not the case, note the direction the bell is out of true. Attempt to correct this by CAREFULLY slackening the bell nuts on one side and tightening those on the other. Re-check and repeat step 6 if necessary. If this is not working, contact a Bell Hanger. Finally, re-tighten the clapper staple nut. Gudgeons # If your tower has old timber headstocks with the gudgeons inserted directly into the headstock, you have an interesting – but not very reliable – museum piece. For any problems here, you need to talk to a Bell Hanger.\nFigure 6: Attachment of gudgeon to a timber headstock\nA more common arrangement is shown in Figure 6, where the gudgeon is clamped to a plate beneath the headstock by bolts secured by nuts on top of the headstock – see Figure 2(C). Figure 6 clearly shows a recent restoration, judging by the finish on the metal parts and the headstock. Many examples of timber headstocks will not look as smart as this.\nYou will need to check the nuts securing the gudgeon plate for tightness following the procedure for bell bolts – work diagonally, loosen slightly then tighten. An indication of loose bolts might be revealed by checking the gap between the plate and the headstock (arrowed on Figure 6). This might be more noticeable when the bell is ‘up’ and hanging on the gudgeon clamps but that is NOT the time to be inspecting details on bell fittings. In any case, the gap may be difficult to determine on an old, rough headstock.\nMetalwork # The straps, threaded ends and nuts supporting the bell will all corrode with time, with the threads probably being most vulnerable. You should inspect all metalwork and identify any items badly affected. This is not something that a Typical Steeple Keeper can rectify but you will play a valuable role in identify the problem and referring it to an expert for a second opinion and, eventually, to a Bell Hanger for replacement.\nRot and beetles # Old timber headstocks may suffer from rot (particularly if the louvres in the Bell Chamber are not weather-proof. Headstocks, especially if damp, may also be attacked by Death Watch Beetle (holes of 2mm diameter or slightly larger) or Furniture beetle (smaller holes). You should check for early signs of any damage and report any beetle infestation to the church authorities. Even if damage is not detected, a preventative measure is to treat headstocks every ten to fifteen years with wood preservative. This is a job for a specialist.\nThe position on Faculty Jurisdiction Rules within the Church of England is not clear regarding the treatment of headstocks. List B includes “The treatment of timber bell frames with preservative or insecticide materials” but does not mention headstocks. The lack of reference to headstocks implies, by omission, that a faculty is required to treat these, which seems inconsistent. As always in difficult cases, consult your Diocesan Bells Adviser. Care of metal headstocks # Metal headstocks present far fewer challenges than timber ones: they are dimensionally stable and the material does not suffer degradation, apart from possible rusting.\nBell nuts # These should be checked for tightness in the same was as for timber headstocks – work diagonally, loosen slightly then tighten.\nGudgeons # These must be firmly fixed, either on a bracket attached to a fabricated headstock (A on Figure 4) or passing through a hollow cast metal headstock and secured by a bolt or riveted. It may be possible to detect a problem by swinging the bell through a small angle and looking and listening for anything unusual. But realistically, the bell will need to be removed from the headstock for a thorough inspection and possible repair. This is certainly a job for a Bell Hanger and would fall under List B of the Church of England Faculty Jurisdiction Rules.\nPainting # A fabricated headstock which has been galvanised should not normally require painting but, as for metal frames, cast metal headstocks will require cleaning and painting every 10 to 20 years. This should be done by a Bell Hanger, who will understand the need to avoid damage to the bells and other parts of the installation. This could be combined with painting of a metal frame.\nImage Credits # Figure Details 1 Ampton, Suffolk. Timber headstock and bell supported from canons with straps. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Neal Dodge) 2 Pakenham, Suffolk. Bell supported by drilling through crown; canons present but not used. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Neal Dodge) 3 Thornbury, Glos. Cast metal headstock. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Hawkesbury, Glos. Fabricated metal headstock on the Tenor bell. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: David Bagley) 5 Elkstone, Glos. Metal canon-retaining headstock. (Photo: Simon Ridley) 6 Pakenham, Suffolk. Attachment of a gudgeon to a timber headstock. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Neal Dodge) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.1, September 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":6,"href":"/docs/070-wheels/","title":"Wheels","section":"Docs","content":" Wheels # The basic design of bell wheels has changed little over the past 200 years. The arrangement of the spokes is both traditional and functional, although there may be some variations. A wheel is made in two parts to allow it to be fitted around the headstock. This has the bonus of making it easier to manoeuvre the parts up to the bell chamber.\nNaming of Parts # A typical wheel is constructed from eleven different components, some with different historic names. Figure 1 shows a typical wheel, viewed as it would be seen with the bell ‘down’. The names used in this chapter, with some alternatives in brackets, are identified on Figure 1 as follows:\nFigure 1: Parts of a bell wheel\nA.\tTransom (Long Spoke, Transome, Long Wheel Spoke)\nB.\tMain Spokes (High Rail)\nC.\tTop Spokes (High Spoke)\nD.\tMeeting Spokes (Meeting Rail)\nE.\tBottom Spokes (Leg Spoke)\nF.\tEye Piece\nG.\tHalving Bolts\nH.\tShroud (Cheeks, Shrouding, Rave, Siding)\nThe bell rope enters the wheel through a Garter Hole near the Top Spoke on the ground pulley side of the wheel, the exact location depending on the position of the ground pulley. (Ground Pulleys are discussed in Rope Routes.) This is shown in detail on Figure 2 as follows:\nFigure 2: Details around the garter hole\nA.\tShroud (Cheeks, Shrouding, Rave, Siding)\nB.\tSole (Sole Plate)\nC.\tGarter Hole (Fillet Hole, Gart-hole)\nD.\tWheel Bobbins (Half Bobbins)\nE.\tRope\nConstruction # Traditionally, bell wheels are constructed from three different types of wood. The spokes are made from oak, the sole from ash and the shrouds from elm. Nowadays, however, shrouds are usually made from marine plywood. Shrouds were formally nailed to the sole but there is a tendency for the nails to rust and nowadays small non-ferrous or stainless-steel screws are used. Sections of shrouding are keyed together by a thin piece of wood, termed a ‘Feather’. Historically, iron feathers were used but these are subject to rusting, causing the end of the shrouding to split.\nThe joint between the two parts of the wheel lies between the Transome (A) and the Meeting Spokes (D) with the two parts secured by the Halving Bolts (G) – all shown on Figure 1.\nAs shown on Figure 2, Wheel Bobbins (D) protect the rope from wear as it emerges from the Garter Hole (C). Within the wheel, the rope is tied off around the two Main Spokes (B on Figure 1) – this figure shows how the edges of the spokes may be chamfered to avoid damage to the rope. (The tying off of a rope can just be seen on the bell in the background of Figure 3.) Further information is provided in Ropes and Rope Routes.\nFigure 3: Fastenings to a steel headstock (A), and an angle brace (B)\nA wheel is usually attached to a wooden Headstock by long bolts through the main spokes and the headstock; cast iron or fabricated steel headstocks will usually have provision for a bracket to attach the wheel. An example is shown at (A) on Figure 3. That figure also shows at (B) a steel Angle Brace bolted (it may be screwed) diagonally on the inner face of the wheel to further strengthen the wheel. Wheels fitted to wooden headstocks may have Wheel Stays. These are metal rods fitted between wheel and headstock to brace the wheel (arrowed on Figure 4).\nFigure 4: Wheel stays (arrowed)\nChecks Required # Wheels are not for Climbing On\nWheels are strong in terms of their designed use, but weak if subjected to a sideways force. Never use a wheel as a climbing frame when moving around the bell frame. They are expensive items to replace.\nThe complexity of a wheel and the materials used mean that the amount of maintenance able to be carried out by a Typical Steeple Keeper is limited. But the regular checks described below are essential to spot (and possibly rectify) problems, and to identify problems needing assistance from a Bell Hanger before they become critical.\nWheel not running true # An initial check is to swing the bell (when down) through a small angle. Any obvious sideways movement of the rim of the wheel shows a wheel that is not running true. If this is substantial it could lead to the rope slipping wheel.\nThe cause may be some looseness in the fastenings, or possibly a bent wheel stay. The further checks described here may resolve the problem. If not, this is a job for a Bell Hanger.\nDamage to the wood # Any evidence of rot or beetle attack must be addressed immediately. While there are contractors who provide this service, the use of a Bell Hanger is to be preferred.\nGeneral advice is that wood should be treated with a preservative about every 10 years. Bearing in mind that the wheels need removal to do this thoroughly, the use of a Bell Hanger is preferable. It may be possible to combine this with a major overhaul.\nLoose fastenings # All fastenings on a wheel need to be checked regularly for tightness. This is particularly important for those involving wooden components, which may shrink with variations of temperature and humidity. A Typical Steeple Keeper should be competent to carry out these checks and any required tightening.\nRemember that the most reliable way of checking tightness is to first loosen the nut and then re-tighten. This ensures (a) that the nut is not just rusted in position and (b) that the thread has not bottomed out. Items to be checked are:\nThe halving bolts. These are often coach bolts, with the nuts underneath the transom, and easily missed. The fastenings between wheel and headstock, both on the wheel and headstock sides. Fastenings holding any reinforcing bars strengthening the wheels. For a wooden headstock, fastenings attaching wheel stays, if present. It may be prudent to prepare a check list of all fastenings, to ensure none are missed. Marking checked fastenings with chalk is another possibility.\nWear and damage # Items to be covered here are:\nShroud # Check for any damage. It is not unknown for contractors to cause accidental damage to a shroud while carrying out other work in the tower. If shrouds are nailed to the sole, check for rusting or missing nails. Check for splitting at joints between sections of shroud, possibly resulting from rusting of iron feathers. A skilled woodworker may be able to rectify any problems found but, considering the complexity of a wheel, and the cost of a new one, the Steeple Keeper should consider consulting a Bell Hanger in all but very minor cases of damage.\nSole # The sole is usually secured to the spokes by countersunk screws. These must be checked for tightness. If any part of a screw is proud it will rapidly wear the rope.\nBobbins and garter hole # These are unlikely to cause problems but should be checked to ensure that the rope path is smooth. Careful use of sandpaper should solve any problems.\nWheel stays # Wheel stays, as used to support the wheel with a wooden headstock, are relatively fragile and can easily be bent. In the extreme, this can cause the wheel to run untrue. If necessary, they can be carefully bent back to a straight line. If in doubt, contact a Bell Hanger.\nImage Credits # Figure Details 1 Wheel annotated to show component parts. (Photo: Graham Clifton, Whites of Appleton) 2 Details of garter hole and bobbins. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Showing bracket between wheel and cast iron headstock, and angle brace to strengthen the wheel. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Wheel stays on a wooden headstock at Borden, Kent. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the CCCBR Photographic Competition. Photo: Christopher J Cooper) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, December 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":7,"href":"/docs/080-stays-and-sliders/","title":"Stays \u0026 Sliders","section":"Docs","content":" Stays \u0026amp; Sliders # A Stay is a mechanism which allows a bell to be ‘parked’ (the ringing term is ‘Set’) with its mouth upwards. This is achieved by the stay engaging with a Slider, which allows the bell to go just past the point of balance in either direction.\nThe stay also acts as a ‘safety valve’. It is designed to break if the bell is set too violently, avoiding damage to other, more expensive, parts of the installation.\nIf the stay breaks the bell will continue to rotate, taking the rope upwards. Learners MUST be taught that this could happen and that, if it does, they must let go of the rope immediately. In this Chapter we will:\ndescribe various designs of stays and sliders, including some which may not often be encountered, explain how the stay interacts with the various types of sliders, set out the routine checks and maintenance needed to keep the installation operating smoothly, and identify cases where a Typical Steeple Keeper should seek expert advice. We have tried to separate the discussion on stays and sliders but this is not always possible because of the interaction between them. Please bear with us on this. Stays # The stay is fitted to the headstock on the end opposite to the wheel. There are various ways to attach a stay, depending on the type of headstock. The three main configurations are shown in Figure 1, and further details are given in the following sections.\nFigure 1: Typical types of stay and their fitting\nIn many (but not all) installations the stay is secured to the headstock using coach bolts. The heads of the bolts (arrowed on Figure 1) are next to the stay and the square section under the head of the bolt bites into the wood of the stay to secure the bolt.\nFigure 1a shows a curved stay bolted to a wooden headstock. This is likely to be found only on old installations. The curve is designed to put the end of the stay on the centreline of the headstock. Figure 1b shows a straight stay bolted to the side of a wooden headstock, although the same arrangement could be used for a hollow metal headstock. Figure 1c shows a straight stay in a metal ‘socket headstock’. This shows a ‘Hastings stay’ but the same arrangement is often used for a straight stay like the one in Figure 1b. A stay is made of straight-grained Ash timber, thickest at the top fixing or where it exits a socket (Figure 1c) and tapering towards the end which contacts the slider. This provides maximum strength at the point of maximum stress. You may, however, find plenty of stays without tapers.\nFigure 2: Profile of a curved stay\nTraditionally, it is likely that curved stays will have been steam-bent. Nowadays, they will be cut from a piece of Ash wide enough to provide the correct profile. An example is shown in Figure 2. If possible, the direction of the grain should follow the longest finished length.\nFixing to wooden headstocks # Figure 3: Stays attached to wooden headstocks\nThe stay will always be attached on the side of a wooden headstock, usually by bolts, arrowed on Figure 3a. In older installations, the top bolt may be replaced by a U-shaped fastening (arrowed on Figure 3b) secured with nuts and washers on the far side of the headstock.\nFixing to metal headstocks # Socket type # Figure 4: Socket fitting on a metal headstock\nA metal headstock may incorporate a socket to accommodate the stay (Figure 4). This keeps the stay on the centre line of the headstock but it requires careful fitting.\nFigure 5: Position of bolting on a socket stay\nFigure 5 is a composite showing both sides of a socket headstock. Here, the bolt heads are on side A, with holes large enough to allow the bolt head to be in contact with the stay. Being coach bolts, the square section under the head will dig into the wood to stop the bolt turning as it is tightened. The holes on side B are smaller – just big enough to take the shaft of the bolt. Washers and nuts are then screwed on to side B and tightened to draw the un-tapered side of the stay against side B. The stay must be sized to provide clearance on the other three sides of the socket.\nFixing on the side of a headstock # Nowadays the need for a stay to be on the centre line of a metal headstock is not considered essential (except where Hastings stays are fitted – see later). This is because metal headstocks tend to be narrower than wooden ones, and the position of the slider can be adjusted more easily in a modern installation. Many stays will now be found bolted on the side of the headstock. Figure 6 shows the stay (A), a hollow cast headstock (B) and the stay bolts (C) – note the heads of the coach bolts.\nFigure 6: Stay mounted on side of a metal headstock\nSliders # When the bell is mouth-up, the stay engages with the slider, which allows the bell to move just past the vertical position in either direction. Many installations use a traditional design, although the ‘Hastings’ design – and some others – may be encountered.\nTraditional design # Figure 7: Raised bell with a traditional stay and slider\nThe main parts are shown in Figure 7. The slider (A) is located under the bell. There is a pivot (B) on the wheel side and the other end sits on a runner board (not visible). As the bell nears top centre the stay (C) pushes the slider between two end stops on the runner board – this is shown in Figure 8.\nFigure 8: Operation of a traditional stay and slider\nThe slider is usually curved. This is because the pivot must be below the rim of the wheel, while it is usually convenient to locate the runner board higher on the frame. In some cases, the runner board may be located at the same height as the pivot, in which case a straight slider will be used. This will require a longer stay.\nThe pivot may be anything between an L-shaped iron rod hammered into a wooden frame, to a pin on an angled plate bolted to the frame. The slider has a hole which locates on the pivot. There will usually be some arrangement to stop the slider jumping off the pivot, for example a bolt or a split pin through a hole in the pivot. Whatever the arrangement, the slider must be able to move smoothly on the pivot.\nIn some cases, there is no means of retaining the slider on the pivot. This may be satisfactory if the installation is well-maintained and the slider moves smoothly – and it does allow the slider to be removed easily when working under the bell – but it does introduce a risk.\nBoth the tip of a curved stay on a wooden headstock and the stay on a metal socket headstock lie on the centre line of the headstock. In this case the centre of the runner board will be below the centre of the headstock. For a side-mounted stay, the runner board will usually be offset by about half the width of the headstock. A curved stay can be replaced with a straight one if the runner board can be moved but, depending on the design of the frame, this may be difficult or impossible. This is a job for a Bell Hanger. Hastings stay # This mechanism, invented by Rev Edward Hastings Horne, has been fitted to some installations by John Taylor and Co between 1890 and 1960. They will still fit Hastings stays if required or where space considerations mandate them. More information on Hastings stays is given in Further Reading.\nFigure 9: Hastings stay showing dingler and quadrant\nIn this system, shown in Figure 9, the slider under the bell is replaced by a metal quadrant (B) whose curvature matches the arc described by the tip of the stay. The ends of the quadrant bend out in opposite directions to form an elongated S-shape. The stay (A) has a pivoted metal peg, usually called a dingler (C), at its tip and the bends at either end of the quadrant direct the dingler to stop blocks on either side of the quadrant. The video in Figure 10 shows a Hastings stay in operation.\nFigure 10: Hastings stay in operation\nGillett \u0026amp; Johnston system # Gillett \u0026amp; Johnston sometimes used a system, shown in Figure 11, similar in some ways to the Hastings stay.\nFigure 11: Gillett \u0026amp; Johnston system with straight track\nIn this system, a Traveller (B) moves along a track (A). In this example, the track is straight, although it may be curved to match the arc of the moving stay. The stay pushes a tab (C) on top of the traveller along the track until it hits the stop block at either end. This avoids the need for a dingler on the end of the stay, but the length of the stay is critical – it must be long enough to engage the tab on the slider but without fouling the track.\nSteel stays \u0026amp; pendulum sliders # A very few light rings are fitted with steel stays, presumably on the argument that the bells are so light that there is no problem in not relying on the “weakest link” safeguard of a breakable stay. This is the case at Frenchay, Gloucestershire, which has six bells with a tenor of 217kg (just over 4cwt). The frame comprises a grillage of steel girders with the bearings on top of the frame and ‘pendulum’ sliders hung below.\nFigure 12: Steel stay in socket headstock (a) and pendulum sliders below (b)\nFigure 12a shows the steel stay in the socket headstock with supporting wooden blocks either side. 12b shows a pair of sliders with one bell set (on the right). The sliders are equipped with small springs to soften the impact as the bell is set – or over-pulled.\nSome light rings with traditional wooden stays may also be fitted with pendulum sliders.\nMini rings # Mini-rings are becoming common, both as fixed and portable installations – see here. Many of them have a tenor around 4.5kg (10lb) and these dispense with stays and sliders altogether. To set at hand stroke, the bell is allowed, under control, to continue past the balance, taking the rope up to the height of a normal back stroke set. These bells are light enough to be pulled back to the hand stroke set position before ringing.\nRoutine Checking # Except where noted, any actions arising from these checks can be rectified by a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nGeneral procedure for all types # The checking interval must be judged on the usage of the bells – both the number of learners being taught and the possibility of visitors finding difficulty with unfamiliar bells. Good ringers can recognise the early stages of cracking by noticing that a bell seems ‘soft’ when setting. With the bell ‘Down’, firmly push the end of the stay in both directions. Any movement will indicate loose stay bolts. Any springiness might indicate cracking. Tighten the stay bolts if necessary and check again. If cracking is noticed, the stay needs to be replaced – see Broken Stay. If the nut on the clapper crown staple bolt becomes loose, the clapper may drop slightly and hit the slider. This condition would normally have been detected in the routine checks of the clappers, but it may occur rapidly, particularly if the nut is not securely locked. This will usually result in a knocking noise which may be heard even from the ringing room. It can be confirmed by tell-tale marks on the top of the slider. The urgent remedial action to deal with loose crown staple bolts is covered in Clappers. Even if there is no suggestion of cracking or loose bolts, the stay bolts should be loosened and re-tightened periodically to check that the nuts have not rusted solid. This is particularly important for a socket headstock, where trapped dampness may cause the bottom of the stay to soften or rot. Trying to remove a rusted nut in this case may cause the head of the coach bolt to turn in the wood, making the bolt very difficult to remove.\nAdditional for traditional design # Clean the surfaces of the runner board and underside of the slider of any dirt or debris. Accumulations of oil or grease may suggest a problem with the bell bearings – see Bearings for rectification measures. Check for wear at the pivot pin (this would be unusual) and check that retaining locknuts (if fitted) on the pin are tight. Check the end stops on the runner board for damage, usually caused by prolonged poor handling. It may be possible to repair these using a competent local carpenter but, in extreme cases, this is a job for a Bell Hanger. (The longer-term solution is to improve the training of all ringers.) The surface of the running board should not require lubrication but, if necessary, use graphite powder. Do not use beeswax or furniture polish as this can attract dirt particles. Finally, check that the slider is moving smoothly and easily on the runner board, without sticking or scraping noises. Additional for Hastings stays # Check the dingler for free movement and tightness of the fixing screws. With extended use, the holes in a dingler may wear, leading to looseness of the peg. If needed, John Taylor and Co can provide replacement dingler assemblies. Check the edge of the dingler and the track for any signs of rubbing. This could result from incorrect setting up of the stay or looseness of the stay bolts. If necessary, reset the stay as described in Broken Stay. Apart from these points, a Hastings installation requires NO maintenance. The quadrant should not be lubricated, as this encourages a build-up of dirt. Additional for Gillett sliders # Check that the track is clean and the traveller moves smoothly. Lubricate the track sparingly with light oil. This is necessary because the frictional drag on the traveller is greater compared to that of the dingler on a Hastings stay. Additional for steel stays and pendulum sliders # Check tightness of all fastenings. Check free and smooth motion of the pendulums, lubricating sparingly as required. Broken Stay # A stay functions in a similar way to a safety valve or electrical fuse: it protects the installation from unusual occurrences. If a tower suffers from repeated broken stays, and if the stays have been properly maintained, then the fault lies most likely in the way that learners have been taught. For ringers, a broken stay will be an unexpected and possibly alarming event. As Steeple Keeper, you will be under pressure to get it fixed and you may be inundated with advice from ‘instant experts’. Your responsibility now is to keep calm and to plan your course of action, taking account of your own experience (and possible limitations) and the availability of materials, services, and advice from reliable experts. The main steps are:\nYour immediate actions Procuring a replacement stay Fitting the replacement Checking the work Immediate actions # Do not enter the bell chamber alone. Check the slider and surrounding equipment for any damage caused by the impact and the flying remains of the stay. Remove the part of the stay still attached to the headstock, keeping all bolts, nuts, and washers. For a side-mounted stay, mark the side of the headstock where the stay was mounted. (This may be obvious from markings on the headstock but better safe than sorry.) Do not dispose of the broken parts of the stay. A stay made of good quality straight-grained ash will usually break cleanly across the stay. With care, the two parts can be pushed together and will provide a template for making the replacement. This is critical for a curved stay as there is no ‘standard’ profile. The rope will have wound itself around the wheel: it may even have come off the wheel and be wound around the headstock or gudgeon. Pull the rope up into the bell chamber and check it for any damage, cleaning off any dirt or grease as necessary. Treat this like fitting a new rope – this will make it easier to reinstate the rope if the rope route is complex, possibly including a rope guide. Procuring a replacement stay # Several options are available here and the choice requires careful consideration.\nIn the last few years many ash trees have started to suffer from \u0026ldquo;ash die back\u0026rdquo; - a disease that leads to the death of the trees affected. Many ash trees are therefore being felled and ringers may anticipate plenty of ash being available for stays. However, one of the problems with the diseased ash is that it becomes very brittle and is therefore useless for making stays. Great caution is also required when felling diseased trees. Affected wood becomes marked from the centre with dark brown and black markings. Obtaining a replacement from the original bell hanger # The simplest and lowest risk option is to obtain a replacement stay from the original bell hanger. This is not the cheapest option but bear the following points in mind:\nThe wood will be Ash, of guaranteed quality. The stay will have been made using the correct tools, by qualified wood workers covered by insurance against any accidents. It will be made to records held by the original bell hanger. The stay should be delivered with fitting instructions, identifying at least the straight edge to be fitted against the headstock. You have a claim if the stay is not to standard. Obtaining a replacement from another bell hanger # The original bell hanger may no longer exist. If they have gone out of business recently, it may be worth checking if another bell hanger has taken over the business – and any records.\nIf records are not available, and if you have the parts of the original stay, then a bell hanger should be able to produce a replacement using the old stay as a template. The standard of work should still meet the standard expected of an original bell hanger.\nA word of caution here. How certain are you that the broken stay was of the correct size? And if this has happened in the past, is it possible that the size has gradually crept up because of over-caution about removing too much material? A badly over-sized stay is not doing its duty as a ‘safety valve’. If you do not have an adequate template, or if there is any doubt about the size, then you should arrange for a bell hanger to visit to assess the situation and take any required measurements.\nMaking a replacement stay yourself # Within the Church of England, ‘replacement of bell stays’ appears in List A of the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules. This means that it can be undertaken without external consultation but the responsibility still lies with the church authorities. Any decision they make will rely on your advice and their trust in you. (The situation will be similar in other jurisdictions). That is a heavy burden. If you really believe you can undertake this, ideally with the support of an Experienced Steeple Keeper, then go ahead. But you must consider:\nDo you have access to Ash of the required quality? Do you have access to the required wood working tools and are you experienced in their use? Do you understand all the Health \u0026amp; Safety implications of such work? Do you understand that if ‘your’ stay breaks and causes injury to a ringer, you might be held responsible for some or all of that injury if the workmanship was seen to be faulty? We will not provide further information on how to make a replacement stay on the assumption that anyone undertaking this work will be fully aware of what is required.\nRepairing the broken stay # Don’t even think about it.\nFitting the replacement # In what follows, we assume that replacement stay is an exact copy of the original, including the bolt holes. If the bolt holes have not been drilled, they will need to be marked up from the headstock and then drilled, preferably using a pillar drill to ensure they are at right angles to the flat side of the stay. If you do not feel capable of doing this, you should either call in the bell hanger or seek advice from an Expert Steeple Keeper. Assuming the replacement stay has been made to the required standard, a Typical Steeple Keeper should be capable of fitting it. As always when working in a bell chamber, an assistant is essential – and very useful. The Steeple Keeper is making a useful contribution here: the Bell Hanger is saved a journey to carry out a short job.\nSide-mounted stays # Procedure for a side-mounted stay\nMount the stay on the correct side of the headstock. This is why you marked the correct side when you removed the broken part. You did do that, didn’t you? Mount the un-tapered side against the headstock. Whoever made the stay should have marked that side. If you are using coach bolts, it helps to tap the head gently with a hammer to start the square section under the head biting into the wood. If you are using a bolt with a hexagonal head, you will need a second spanner to hold the head while you tighten the nut. This is where the assistant is useful. Socket headstocks # Procedure for a socket headstock\nMount the stay with the un-tapered side against the side of the socket with the smaller holes (Side B on Figure 5) and insert the bolts through the side with the larger holes (Side A on Figure 5). Coach bolts are essential here, as it will be impossible to reach a hexagonal bolt head with a spanner – probably even with a socket spanner. If coach bolts are replaced on an older socket headstock a problem may be encountered as some metric coach bolts have a larger diameter head than the imperial ones they replace. This means that the larger head may not fit through the hole in the headstock. The diameter of the bolt head can be reduced if you have access to a lathe or a grinder, but do not remove more material than necessary. The new stay should slide easily into the socket. If there is any indication of binding, remove the stay. Any areas that were binding should be obvious and can be carefully trimmed using a plane or wood file. Finally add washers and tighten the nuts on Side B. DO NOT under any circumstances attempt to force an over-sized stay into the socket. This can over-stress the socket and may break it, especially if it is made of cast iron. This does happen – see Figure 13. Figure 13: Cast iron headstock broken by over-sized stay\nHastings stays # The procedure for fitting a Hastings stay is similar to that for a plain socket stay except for the need to replace the dingler assembly. If unfamiliar with this, you should seek advice from a Bell Hanger or Expert Steeple Keeper.\nChecking the work # This will involve witnessing the operation of the stay and slider when the bell is rung up. This is potentially dangerous and you MUST take the following precautions:\nPlace yourself in a position where you can see the stay and slider but are not in the direct line in the unlikely event of the clapper breaking. A further person is in the Ringing Room ready to raise the bell. Ideally, a third person is with you in the Bell Chamber. Either tie the clapper, or all persons in the Bell Chamber wear hearing protection. A system of signals is agreed between the Ringing Room and the Bell Chamber. This could be jerking the rope on an adjacent bell. Signal to raise the bell and witness the interaction between stay and slider. If there is any problem, give the signal to immediately lower the bell. You would have had to do something very wrong for there to be a problem with a traditional stay and slider. A possible problem with a Hastings stay could be the dingler binding on one side of the quadrant (This should not happen if the stay has been made correctly). It may be possible to correct this by noting which side is binding, lowering the bell, slackening the stay bolts and attempting to move the stay slightly before repeating the check. If this does not work, or for any other problem, you must swallow your pride and seek expert help.\nSome bolts, particularly coach bolts, may take time to settle in. It would be prudent to check the bolt tightness after a week or so.\nFurther Reading # “Hastings Stays”, The Ringing World 2003 (4834/35): 1230-31, with follow-up letter 2004 (4837): 29.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture What you hope not to see: the remains of a broken stay. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 1 Typical types of stay and their fitting. From A Schedule of Regular Maintenance, Central Council Publication, 1991. (Drawing © Alan Frost) 2 Curved stay removed from Thornbury, Glos, during 1996 rehang. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Stays attached to wooden headstocks with (a) two bolts, (b) top clamp. (Photos: Chris Povey) 4 Socket fitting on a metal headstock at Temple Guiting, Glos. (Photo: Chris Povey) 5 Bolting on a socket stay. (Composite of photos by Chris Povey) 6 Stay mounted on the side of a metal headstock at Chipping Sodbury, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 7 Raised bell at All Saints, Loughborough, showing traditional stay and slider. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Roger Lawson) 8 Operation of a traditional stay and slider at Thornbury, Glos. (Video: James Joynson) 9 Hastings stay at All Saints, Loughborough, showing dingler and quadrant. Entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Roger Lawson) 10 Hastings stay in operation. (Video: Andrew Ward) 11 Gillett \u0026amp; Johnston system at Wickwar, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 12 Steel stay and pendulum sliders at Frenchay, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 13 Cast iron headstock broken by forcing in an over-sized stay. (Photo: Chris Povey) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, March 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":8,"href":"/docs/090-clappers/","title":"Clappers","section":"Docs","content":" Clappers # This chapter covers:\nBackground: The various types of clappers, how they are made and suspended within the bell Routine Checking: The ways in which clappers can be checked, both as part of a routine maintenance schedule and to investigate any problems Maintenance: The options for dealing with problems and the level of experience needed to carry them out Final sections cover: Other Information relevant to clappers and Further Reading Background # A clapper assembly comprises four main components:\nThe crown staple, from which the clapper is suspended The clapper ball, which strikes the bell The shaft, connecting the ball to the crown staple, via the top end of the clapper The flight, which adds mass below the ball to improve the dynamic behaviour of the clapper Types of clappers # There are three main types:\nTraditionally, clappers were made from wrought iron. This has a low carbon content with slag inclusions which form a fibrous structure as the material is forged (or \u0026lsquo;wrought\u0026rsquo;) into a finished product. This material is tough, malleable, ductile, corrosion resistant and easily forge welded. It is an ideal material for producing a clapper. Unfortunately, it is now difficult to source. Faced with the difficulty of obtaining wrought iron, ductile iron, also known as spheroidal graphitic (or \u0026lsquo;SG\u0026rsquo;) cast iron, became the material of use for clappers. This is iron containing a high level of carbon (around 3%). Unlike the more familiar form of cast iron, where the carbon forms inclusions in the shape of flakes, ductile iron includes alloying elements which result in the carbon forming nodular inclusions, giving a tougher material. Being cast, rather than forged, the shape of the casting pattern is important. Some early SG clappers had oversized shafts, balls and flights which could lead to handling and striking problems, as well as possible damage to the bell. It is possible to machine such clappers to a better profile but this must be done by a specialist. Steel clappers have been made but are not widely used. Since 2005, an increasing number of bells are fitted with wooden shafted clappers. If well designed, these may improve the handling of \u0026lsquo;awkward\u0026rsquo; bells and make it easier to raise large bells \u0026lsquo;right\u0026rsquo; \u0026ndash; see Wooden Shafted Clappers. \u0026lsquo;Composite clappers\u0026rsquo; are also available: these use a man-made material for the shaft. Clapper suspension \u0026ndash; historical # This section describes historical clapper designs to allow a Steeple Keeper to recognise them. The maintenance and repair of such clappers is a specialist task and advice should be sought from a bell hanger. Up until the mid-19th century, clappers were suspended from a U-shaped wrought iron staple, cast into the crown of a bell during its manufacture. Iron corrodes with time and the corroded staple expands in the crown of the bell, generating stresses which will ultimately lead to cracking of the bell. For this reason, cast-in crown staples must be removed if the bell is to be retained for ringing \u0026ndash; see Removal of a cast-in crown staple.\nThe clapper was usually suspended from a cast-in crown staple using a baldric (or \u0026lsquo;baldrick\u0026rsquo;). In the nineteenth century, in the absence (or after the removal) of a cast-in crown staple, a separate \u0026lsquo;centre bolt\u0026rsquo; would be passed up through the crown of the bell and headstock. The traditional suspension would be made from a stirrup at the bottom of this bolt, with a baldrick or using a wooden block arrangement \u0026ndash; for example, the \u0026lsquo;Rudhall wooden top\u0026rsquo; shown in Figure 1.\nFigure 1: Wrought iron clapper with Rudhall wooden top\nModern independent clapper assemblies # In modern installations, the clapper is suspended from an independent crown staple, with a centre bolt passing up through the crown of the bell and the headstock. The component parts, shown in Figure 2, are:\nFigure 2: Parts of an independent crown staple\nA fixing nut at the top of the headstock. There are several possibilities for this: The most common is a castellated nut held in place with a split pin, shown in Figure 2(b). Stainless steel split pins are preferred to avoid corrosion and they may need to be replaced after removal. A plain nut with a split pin above \u0026ndash; the nut may work loose but should not come off completely. A nut plus a locknut, shown at (A) on Figure 2(a). A nut with a sacrificial plastic insert \u0026ndash; this type must be replaced every time the nut is removed. Proprietary locking nuts with a metallic spring section that clamps to the thread. A steel washer between the nut and the top of the headstock (not included on Figure 2(a) but visible on Figure 2(b)). The part of the centre bolt within the headstock is often of square section. Under the crown of the bell is the crown staple washer, made of leather or fibre, (B) on Figure 2(a). When the centre bolt nut is tightened, this helps to lock the crown staple in position within the bell. This is particularly important where the inside of the crown of the bell is rough \u0026ndash; for example where the bell has been quarter turned. At the bottom of the crown staple is usually a clevis fitting, (C) on Figure 2(a), comprising a U-shaped yoke with a pivot pin supporting the clapper \u0026ndash; described in the following section. Pivot pin and clapper bushes # Some designs of wooden shafted clappers have a ball bearing suspension. This is outside the scope of this document. The U-shaped clevis has two holes to accommodate a pivot pin. Usually, one hole and one end of the pin are threaded. After insertion, the threaded end of the pin protrudes through the clevis and is secured by a locknut \u0026ndash; shown at (D) on Figure 2(a). The other end of the pin has a bolt head or machined flats to allow a spanner to hold the pin while the locknut is tightened. If a bolt head is present, care must be taken not to overtighten as this could crack a cast staple or bend a steel one.\nThe top end of the clapper has a hole through which the pivot pin passes, fitted with a replaceable bush. Various types of bushes may be encountered:\nTraditionally, clapper bushes were made of lignum vitae. This is a dense wood (it sinks in water) containing oils which provide some natural lubrication. It is ideal as a bearing material and has been used for bearings in hydro-electric plants and nuclear submarines. Unfortunately, the source trees are now regarded as \u0026lsquo;Near Threatened\u0026rsquo; making further use of this material unsustainable. If worn lignum vitae bushes are encountered, they must be replaced \u0026ndash; this is outside the scope of this document.\nClapper bushes made from lignum vitae require additional lubrication, either by a screw cap lubricator of the \u0026lsquo;Stauffer\u0026rsquo; type or a grease nipple. Although more modern types of metal or plastic bushes may require no lubrication some bell hangers still provide grease nipples or similar, as shown at (E) on Figure 2(a). On balance, a method of lubrication is preferred although the benefit of retrospective fitting may be small.\nModern types of clapper bush are made of:\nOil impregnated sintered phosphor bronze. Nylon. Experience with a problem of swelling when damp or at elevated temperature means such bushes are now rarely fitted. Existing nylon bushes need not be replaced if performing satisfactorily. If necessary, the swelling problem can be rectified by careful reaming. TUFNOL. This is a proprietary laminated material impregnated with phenolic resin. Bushes may be backed by a layer of rubber.\nClapper centring pins # Figure 3: Twiddle pin (A), and double crown staple locknut (B)\nWhile not strictly part of the clapper, it is appropriate to mention these here.\nMost modern rings of bells with cast iron or fabricated steel headstocks have clapper centring pins fitted \u0026ndash; usually known as \u0026lsquo;Twiddle Pins\u0026rsquo;. There is clearance where the crown staple passes through the bottom of the headstock and the crown of the bell: twiddle pins allow the crown staple to be positioned in the centre of the bell. There is a twiddle pin on either side of the headstock, one of which can be seen at (A) on Figure 3. Each pin comprises a machine screw which locates against the generally square section of the centre bolt. The crown staple can be positioned by slackening one pin and tightening the other. Locknuts on each pin allow the pins to be locked in place when the process is complete. (Figure 3 also shows (B) another example of double locknuts on the crown staple.)\nThe use of twiddle pins to correct an odd-struck bell is described in Odd-Struck Bells.\nChecking Clappers # This Section deals with initial and regular checks of clappers. Routine checks and maintenance should be carried out in accordance with a schedule - see Maintenance Schedule - and results of all checks, including issues raised and how they were resolved, should be recorded.\nFor both practical and safety reasons, the checking and any subsequent maintenance must be carried out by at least two people, taking account of Health \u0026amp; Safety Requirements. The checks described here can be carried out by a Typical Steeple Keeper and helpers on the more modern independent crown staple designs; checks on the older types of clapper suspension may require assistance from more experienced personnel.\nThe procedure for checking is as follows:\nFigure 4: Wooden shafted clapper - note bolts securing ball to shaft\nProcedure for checking a clapper\nStanding in the pit, swing the clapper to check for squealing or grinding noises. It should swing smoothly and noiselessly, for more than five swings. (Take care to avoid getting hit by the swiinging clapper!) If not, this could indicate problems with the clapper bush. If the clapper has provision for lubrication this should be used.\nCheck the clapper is swinging \u0026rsquo;true\u0026rsquo; \u0026ndash; that is, the axes of rotation of the bell and the clapper are parallel. This can be checked by loosely holding the clapper vertical while a helper swings the bell through a small angle. If the clapper is not true it will move slightly sideways as the bell swings. Correction of this problem is described in Clapper not swinging true.\nIf this is a first check, assess the extent of the clapper impact area on the inside of the bell. If elongated this indicates wear of the clapper bush.\nIf the bell has a wooden clapper, this is a good time to check the tightness of the bolts securing the shaft to the clapper ball (see Figure 4) and the top fitting. For all clapper types, also check the locknut on the pivot pin. These fittings are subject to vibration, especially if the bush is worn, and it is not unknown for the pivot pin to work its way out and lead to ejection of the clapper. The consequences of this are similar to those of a broken clapper.\nCheck the movement of the clapper by attempting to lift the clapper vertically while a helper holds the crown staple nut lightly (if twiddle pins are present, slacken one of them first). On a well-maintained bell, there should be no vertical movement of the crown staple nut. When finished, remember to re-tighten the twiddle pin.\nThere are two main reasons why movement might occur:\nThe nut may have worked loose. This is unlikely with a castellated nut and split pin or a proprietary type of locknut but might occur with other types of nuts. The corrective action is described in Correcting loose crown staple nut.\nThe crown staple washer may be damaged or have become compressed.\nWith the crown staple tight on the crown of the bell, there may still be some small vertical movement arising from play in the clapper bush. This can be investigated further by the sideways movement of the clapper \u0026ndash; sometimes termed \u0026ldquo;clapper roll\u0026rdquo;. This is a sensitive measurement as a small movement in the bush is magnified by the length of the clapper. Clapper roll is measured most easily by standing in front of the bell with the clapper pulled to touch the rim. The total extent (left to right) of sideways movement can then be measured. The amount of roll should be checked and recorded on each occasion to provide a history of bush wear and to give warning of the need for re-bushing. As a guide, clapper roll over 20mm is warning of a need to plan for re-bushing and over 50mm requires immediate attention. A sudden large increase in clapper roll may indicate breakage of the pivot pin.\nIf the bells have not been inspected for a long time, wear of the bush will also be revealed by an elongated impact area on the bell. It will be necessary to remove the clapper to investigate (a) noise from the swinging clapper, (b) excessive clapper roll, or (c) possible damage to the crown staple washer or pivot pin \u0026ndash; clapper removal is described in Removal and replacement of a clapper.\nMaintenance # Removal of a cast-in crown staple # Removal of a cast-in crown staple must be carried out by a professional Bell Hanger, commonly within their workshop. Note that, within the jurisdiction of the Church of England, this work will require a faculty.\nClapper not swinging true # When working under small bells it may be necessary to remove the slider (if present) to provide better access. You MUST check it has been replaced correctly when the work is complete. Correction of a clapper which is not swinging true is within the capability of a Typical Steeple Keeper.\nProcedure for correcting a clapper not swinging true\nSlacken off one twiddle pin if present. Helper just slackens the crown staple nut. Steeple Keeper loosely holds the clapper vertical and checks for sideways movement as the helper swings the bell through a small angle. The Steeple Keeper twists the clapper to correct the swing and repeats step 3 until satisfied that the clapper is swinging true. Steeple Keeper holds the clapper in the correct position against the edge of the bell while the helper tightens the crown staple nut and, if fitted, the twiddle pin. Repeat step 3 to check that the clapper is still swinging true \u0026ndash; over-enthusiastic re-tightening of the crown staple nut may rotate the crown staple. Record a note to repeat the check at the next maintenance session. The clapper will need removal for further investigation if the problem recurs.\nCorrecting loose crown staple nut # As in replacement of the clapper described below.\nRemoval and replacement of a clapper # Using local effort to remove and replace a clapper is valuable, since it saves a bell hanger the time and expense of travel to do this small part of the work. Removal and replacement of a clapper is within the capability of a Typical Steeple Keeper, even if rectification of any problems requires specialist services.\nProcedure for removal of a clapper\nRemove the split pin if present. Slightly loosen the crown staple nut, ideally using the correct size spanner, although a large adjustable spanner is a possible alternative. This may require some effort. If twiddle pins are present, slacken one. Alternatively, slacken both by the same number of turns. Using tape or a marker pen, mark the ground pulley side of the clapper and the crown staple. This is to ensure that the clapper is replaced in the original orientation. A helper stands in the pit ready to support the clapper while the Steeple Keeper removes the crown staple nut. The Steeple Keeper must warn the helper just before the nut comes off the thread. The nut and washer are replaced for safe keeping on the crown staple after removal. With the assembly removed, any problems with a worn bush, failure of a pivot pin or a damaged crown staple washer will usually be obvious. Any problems can be rectified either by a local engineering specialist or a Bell Hanger. If this involves disassembly of the clapper, the contractor must be required to replace it in the original orientation, using the marks made on the clapper and crown staple in item 3 above.\nNote that the traditional leather or fibre washers may compress gradually and be more easily damaged by movement. Harder materials are available and advice on this should be sought from a Bell Hanger.\nReplacement of the clapper follows the reverse procedure, ensuring that:\nThe clapper is replaced in the original orientation and is swinging true \u0026ndash; see Clapper not swinging true. The twiddle pin or pins, if present, is/are tightened. This is done with the crown staple nut just tight (\u0026ldquo;nipped up\u0026rdquo; seems to be the technical term). The crown staple nut is tightened. A rule of thumb is to use reasonable force applied to a 10 inch (25cm) spanner. A final check is carried out to ensure the clapper is swinging true. The precautions described above to replace the clapper in the same orientation should ensure that the clapper will not become odd-struck (assuming it was not originally odd-struck). If the clapper has not been marked or reassembled incorrectly it will be necessary to check the odd-struckness and correct as necessary \u0026ndash; see Odd-Struck Bells. Finally, details of the work carried out are recorded for future reference.\nIf you are working on a bell where the clapper has not been removed for some time, you may find that the crown staple nut and twiddle pins (if present) have become seized. The first step is to treat them with a penetrating oil, preferably overnight, and then attempt to use a large spanner or wrench. If this is not effective, some form of impact driver may be more successful. Trying to hammer the spanner or wrench is not preferred, as it may lead to damage, both to the installation and to yourself. If all else fails, don’t be afraid to call on outside help. To avoid this in the future, coat the threads with an anti-seize copper grease before replacing. Other Information # Odd-struck bells # Ideally, the time it takes for a bell to strike after being pulled off at handstroke should be equal to the time at backstroke. Many ringers will have visited towers where they are warned that a certain bell is \u0026ldquo;a bit slow at handstroke\u0026rdquo; or something similar. But this should not be the case for a modern bell with the clapper hanging in the centre of the bell at rest.\nWe are assuming here that all the checks and maintenance described above have been carried out. This should have eliminated problems caused by clappers not running freely, worn bushes, loose crown staples and so on. All of these could result in unpredictable odd-struckness. But, as a responsible Steeple Keeper, you will have already ruled out all of these. A bell that is noticeably odd-struck and has twiddle pins can be corrected as follows:\nProcedure for correcting odd-struckness\nWith the bell down, pull up the rope and secure it to take the weight of the rope off the wheel. The bell should now be at bottom dead centre of its rotation. If possible, check this with a straight edge and a spirit level across the mouth of the bell. (A bell on plain bearings may need nudging for it to settle at bottom dead centre.) Slightly loosen the crown staple nut. Standing facing the bell, touch the end of a tape measure against the striking surface on the clapper ball (taking care not to move the clapper) and read the measurement to the lip of the bell. Repeat this on the opposite side (it helps to have one person on each side). If the readings are different, slacken one twiddle pin and tighten the other. Repeat steps 3 to 5 until the two measurements are equal, ideally to within 1mm. Re-tighten the crown staple nut and twiddle pins, and re-instate the bell rope. If twiddle pins are not present, the recommendation is to place a tapered washer (or a half-washer) under the crown of the bell. Advice on this should be sought from a specialist.\nElectronic devices are available for measuring odd-struckness \u0026ndash; as described in Odd-struckness and swing periods. It may be possible to find someone able to offer this as a service \u0026ndash; perhaps in your local Guild or Association. Such a device can also offer useful data on the swing periods of bells and the comparison between all bells in the ring \u0026ndash; see also in Odd-struckness and swing periods. While outside the scope of this document, this may be worth investigating as a way of dealing with problems in striking for some rings of bells.\nClapper breakage # Figure 5: SG cast iron clapper broken at the top end\nThe consequences of a broken clapper (Figure 5) can be serious, with the flying clapper causing expensive damage - maybe even breaking another bell.\nIn the event of breakage, the steeple keeper must check all parts of the installation for any consequential damage. Failures such as that shown in Figure 5 usually occur in SG clappers and result from a fatigue crack initiated from a pre-existing defect, leading to failure when the crack reaches a critical size. This type of crack is almost impossible to detect before failure without the use of specialised equipment and certainly not with the clapper in place within the bell.\nBroken clappers, either SG or wrought iron, cannot be repaired by electric welding. For an SG clapper, the answer is a new clapper. Wrought iron clappers can be repaired by forge welding \u0026ndash; in fact, many wrought iron clappers are made in two parts which are then forge welded to the correct length. But this work must be carried out by a specialist.\nAnother possible cause of clapper failure is the pivot pin working loose and eventually falling out. This is something which should be detectable at an early stage and rectified during regular checks. In summary, any repairs or replacements for clappers must be carried out by a Bell Hanger. A Typical Steeple Keeper can play a part by removing the remains of the clapper and by installing the new or repaired one.\nWorn clapper ball # Wear on the striking face of the clapper ball should be checked during routine maintenance. If a substantial flat surface has developed this is a job for a Bell Hanger, although the Steeple Keeper can assist by removing and replacing the clapper. The Bell Hanger may be able to twist and re-forge the shaft of a wrought iron clapper to present a new striking face.\nBell going up wrong # Some bells, particularly those over 20 to 25 cwt, are prone to going up \u0026lsquo;wrong\u0026rsquo;. That is, the clapper is on the higher (wrong) side of the bell when it is set at handstroke after raising. For some bells, it may be difficult to set the bell when this occurs. This depends on the design of bell and clapper \u0026ndash; more specifically, on (a) the distance between the two axes of rotation of bell and clapper, and (b) the low amplitude swing periods of the bell and clapper. As a rough guide, the low amplitude swing period of the clapper should be at least 90% that of the bell.\nRectification is a job for specialists. Replacement with a wooden shafted clapper may help.\nFurther Reading # Wooden shafted clappers # Bernard Taylor provides a history of the development of wooden shafted clappers in: \u0026ldquo;Wheeler\u0026rsquo;s Wooden Wallopers\u0026rdquo;. The Ringing World 2020 (5721): 1258-1261. Several other suppliers now provide their own designs.\nOdd-struckness and swing periods # David Bagley describes a meter for measuring odd-struckness in \u0026ldquo;Oddstruckness \u0026ndash; What it is and how to measure it\u0026rdquo;, The Ringing World 2019 (5653): 840-841.\nBernard Taylor describes work on swing periods and the matching of bells within a ring in \u0026ldquo;Creating a well-balanced ring at Worcester\u0026rdquo;, The Ringing World 2019 (5686): 388-391, (5694): 582-585 and (5679): 652-653.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Bell and clapper in motion at Worcester Cathedral. Cropped from an entry in the Bells and Installations round of the Central Council photographic competition. (Photo: Phillip George) 1 Rudhall \u0026lsquo;Wooden Top\u0026rsquo; clapper removed from 4th bell at Thornbury, South Glos, during rehanging in 1996. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 2(a) Clapper from Palmer, Houston, showing parts. (Photo: Allen Nunley) 2(b) Castellated nut and split pin on seventh bell at Chipping Sodbury. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Headstock of Tenor bell at Thornbury, South Glos, showing \u0026lsquo;Twiddle Pin\u0026rsquo; and crown staple secured by a nut and locknut. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Wooden shafted clapper installed by Whites of Appleton on Tenor bell at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 5 SG clapper broken at the top end. (Photo: Dave Clark) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.3, January 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":9,"href":"/docs/100-bearings/","title":"Bearings","section":"Docs","content":" Bearings # The main bearings are critical items: in any installation, they support the large mass of metal swinging through a full circle and their condition is fundamental to the ‘go’ of the bell. You may encounter the two types of bearing – plain bearings and ball bearings. We will describe both, but a Typical Steeple Keeper’s main task will be the important role of carrying out the checks described here. This will help identify any problems before they reach a critical stage.\nA Typical Steeple Keeper can only carry out basic maintenance on bearings: for example, lubrication of plain bearings. Major jobs will usually require the lifting of a bell, even by a small amount, and this is a job for Bell Hangers, who carry the necessary insurances and requirements of Health \u0026amp; Safety regulations. Also, within the jurisdiction of the Church of England, there may be a legal requirement to obtain a Certificate or faculty for such work. Further details are given in Formal Requirements, Faculty Jurisdiction Rules and Health \u0026amp; Safety. Ball Bearings # Description # Ball bearings started to be fitted to bells only in the early 1920s but their use since then is almost universal, so these are the ones you are most likely to experience.\nFigure 1: Ball bearing - the split for assembly is arrowed\nA ball bearing (Figure 1) is a sealed unit that should require no regular maintenance. The bearing consists of one (or possibly two) rings of hardened steel balls running between two hardened steel tracks. The inner ring is mounted on the gudgeon and the outer on the bearing housing, mounted on the frame. On assembly, the bearings are filled with grease which is retained by seals. The grease provides some lubrication to prevent fretting between the balls and the track, but its main use is to protect the components from rusting.\nDesigns vary, but the type of bearing shown in Figure 1 is split for assembly along the line arrowed. Do not try to separate the two halves during routine checks.\nThe ball bearings used for bell hanging are self-aligning, allowing for small movements of the bell frame – particularly important for wooden frames. Lateral movement, resulting from small movements between the two side frames, is accommodated by a small amount of lateral travel (often termed ‘end float’) on one bearing, usually the one on the wheel side.\nIn many engineering applications, ball bearings provide prolonged satisfactory operation. But the alternating direction of rotation of the bell when ringing is not ideal, and neither are impacts on the bell from clock or chiming hammers. Impacts from chiming hammers is particularly harmful, as the film of grease may not be replenished when the bell is stationary, leading to metal-to-metal contact between the balls and the track.\nRegular checks and maintenance # Unless you suspect a problem with ball bearings (see Problems with Bearings), the only checks you should undertake are:\nCheck the tightness of the bolts holding the bearing to the frame. Check for leakage of grease from the end seals. Check clearances at either side – a bell can ‘travel’ sideways slightly, especially when subjected to a heavy clock hammer. This is unusual but should be checked. These checks can be undertaken by a Typical Steeple Keeper; but points 2 and 3 can only be rectified by a Bell Hanger.\nSome older ball bearings may have a grease nipple. This does NOT mean they require the grease to be ‘topped up’ regularly – that is a certain way of damaging the seals. Do not use a grease gun on these. The results of over greasing can be seen in Figure 2.\nFigure 2: The unfortunate effect of forcing grease into a ball bearing\nAs noted above, ball bearings are not working in an ideal regime. Even if no problems are experienced, it may be prudent to seek advice from a Bell Hanger on ball bearings more than 10 to 15 years old, especially if the bells are heavily used.\nPlain Bearings # Description # A plain bearing (“journal bearing” in engineering parlance) comprises a shaft rotating within a journal. The shaft and journal are made of different materials and the bearing requires lubrication – wear is avoided by the shaft floating on a thin film of oil as it rotates. For a bell, the ‘shaft’ is the steel gudgeon attached to the headstock (the moving part) and the ‘journal’ is a ‘bearing brass’ (sometimes made of bronze) attached to the bell frame (the fixed part). A typical bearing brass, of a type used since the Middle Ages, is shown in Figure 3.\nFigure 3: Parts of a typical plain bearing brass\nThe bearing brass (A) is wedge shaped. Traditionally it was fitted directly into an oak frame; more recently it would be fitted into a metal bedplate attached to the frame. The gudgeon revolves in the groove (B), with a reservoir for the oil (C). The top edges of the groove (D) may be chamfered to conduct surplus oil back to the reservoir. There is a slot (E) for inserting a chisel to remove the bearing. This is a task for a bell hanger, not a Steeple Keeper.\nFigure 4: Parts of a plain bearing assembly\nFigure 4 shows bearings on two bedplates which would be attached to the frame by hold down bolts through the holes at (A). The bearing brass (B) is inserted into the bedplate and the slot for the oil reservoir can be seen at (C). In this design, a felt pad would be placed on top of the gudgeon before the lid (D) is closed. This helps to help distribute the oil around the gudgeon. Note that failure to close the lid leads to loss of lubricant and can cause a bearing to seize.\nFigure 5: Alternative plain bearing assembly with oil reservoir\nFigure 5 shows an alternative design. Again, the holes for hold down bolts and the bearing brass can be seen at A and B, respectively. In this design, the oil is supplied from above in the reservoir (C), which contains a felt wick. The oil can be topped up through the small hole in the top of the reservoir.\nIn most engineering applications, journal bearings will operate with a steady rotation maintaining the oil film. In full circle ringing, however, the bell comes to rest with mouth upwards then turns in the opposite direction. At this point the oil film compresses and this has a very marginal braking effect on the bell. Some ringers feel that this helps to control the bell near the balance. This may be a myth: you need to make up your own mind.\nMost plain bearings allow a small amount of end float, but they are not self-aligning. This means that the gudgeons must be accurately aligned on installation. This presents a problem for wooden frames which may distort with time. This can lead to ‘pinching’ resulting in sudden dropping of the bell. This should not be a problem for plain bearings correctly mounted on metal frames.\nRegular checks and maintenance # This describes the work which should be carried out regularly by a Typical Steeple Keeper. Dealing with more fundamental problems is described below in Problems with Bearings. The main routine task for plain bearings is lubrication. Traditionally, castor oil was used – more specifically the ‘veterinary grade’. This may be difficult to procure, and an alternative is the oil developed to lubricate the chain on chainsaws. This contains a component to enhance the ‘anti-fling’ property needed for chainsaws and this may help to maintain the lubrication of the bearing. During lubrication, it is important to keep the area around the bearing clean to avoid ingress of any abrasive particles, such as dust and grit from tower masonry.\nDo not use grease as a lubricant. It forms an arch over the revolving part and never reaches where it is needed.\nThe recommendation is to lubricate little and often, preferably before each ringing session. A Steeple Keeper may find this unduly onerous: this is probably the major objection to the use of plain bearings.\nDuring a routine inspection, the Steeple Keeper should carry out two other checks:\nWith the bearing cap open, check for any scoring on the gudgeon. This may indicate abrasive particles in the bearing. If it becomes severe it may be necessary to clean the bearing. This requires lifting the bell which, as noted earlier, is a job for a Bell Hanger. For a wooden frame, check that frame movement or damage has not caused the bearing to move. Again, if this is the case, it is a job for a Bell Hanger. Problems with Bearings # DANGER: Extreme care must be exercised when carrying out the tests described in this section and two people (at least) must be present. Even when swinging through a small angle a bell can cause considerable damage if clothing or body parts become trapped. Even if no obvious problems have been detected, the ‘go’ of one or more bells may have become worse, on either plain or ball bearings. Ultimately, this is a problem for a Bell Hanger, but a Typical Steeple Keeper can get some information by listening carefully as the bell is swung by a SMALL amount while DOWN. Any squeaking, grinding or rumbling may indicate a problem and will signal the need for an expert opinion.\nFor this to work, other extraneous noise must be minimised:\nThe clapper should be tied to remove any noise from the clapper bush. The rope should be tied clear to remove noise from pulleys, loose bosses and rope chutes, and the bell swung by hand. A further test would be to swing several bells by the same small amount and check the times taken for the bell to come to rest. A time much shorter than for bells of similar weight could indicate a bearing problem.\nA Final Warning # To reiterate what we have said above: a Steeple Keeper must NOT attempt to dismantle bearings, plain or ball, and must not undertake any work which involves lifting a bell, even by levering it up a small amount.\nImage Credits # Figure Details 1 Ball bearing on the Tenor bell at Gloucester Cathedral. (Photo: James Joynson) 2 The unfortunate result of forcing grease into a ball bearing. (Photo: Malcolm Taylor) 3 Component parts of a plain bearing brass. From \u0026ldquo;A Schedule of Regular Maintenance”, Central Council publication, 1991. (Drawing © Alan Frost) 4 Plain bearing assembly showing parts. (Photo: Alison Hodge) 5 Plain bearing with oil reservoir. (Photo: Alison Hodge) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, December 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":10,"href":"/docs/110-rope-route/","title":"Rope Routes","section":"Docs","content":" Rope Routes # The rope may encounter many obstacles between the bell and the ringer. The main reasons are:\nIt is difficult to design a traditional rectangular bell frame with all ropes falling in a perfect circle, especially with constraints on space and the possible need for a two-tier frame. There may be obstacles such as support girders, ladders and clock cases which limit the placement of ropes. Any obstacle to free movement of the rope will have an effect on the handling of the bell. In this chapter we describe situations which a Steeple Keeper may encounter and the implications for checking and fixing problems.\nObstacles to a Straight Drop # Pulleys # The term Pulley can be used to refer either to a wheel which rotates as a rope passes over it or to the whole assembly of the wheel within its mounting, called a Pulley Block. Here, we will use more traditional terms: referring to the wheel as a Roller and using Pulley for the whole assembly of the Roller and the Roller Box which supports it. Some ringers may use different names but please bear with us. The first major ‘obstacle’ in any installation is the Ground Pulley. This usually sits below the bell and accommodates the change of direction of the rope as the bell rotates. With the bell set at back stroke (or down), the rope rises straight up to the wheel with the pulley playing little part. When set at hand stroke, however, the rope is pulled under the wheel, running over the Ground Pulley Roller. A single pulley like this may be referred to as a Hand Stroke Roller.\nA rope moved from where it would naturally fall is said to be ‘drawn’. Thus, where a double ground pulley is used the rope is ‘drawn’ further under the bell. Figure 1: Movement of the rope over a double ground pulley\nThe video in Figure 1 shows the operation of a double ground pulley. Note that the hand stroke pulley has to cope with a change of direction as well as the forces involved as the bell changes direction. The wear on this pulley likely to be larger than on any other along the rope route.\nIn a tower with a very short draught the sally may pass up through the ground pulley. In this case a wider roller box should have been fitted to accommodate the sally without resistance. If this is not the case, a suitable roller box should be obtained from a Bell Hanger. We have been referring to the most common location for the ground pulley – sitting below the wheel. A possible alternative is to ‘top-rope’ the wheel, with the ground pulley placed level with the top of the wheel, as shown in Figure 2.\nFigure 2: Movement of the rope on a top-roped bell\nThis may be a way of re-routing a rope to provide a more direct fall where there is an obstacle below the bell. The arrangement is used on the Charmborough portable ring, mainly to save space, although it also avoids the need for the sally to pass through the ground pulley. Note that this is only possible where the bell frame extends above the bell – see the description of an H-frame in Bell Frames.\nTraditionally, rollers were turned up in wood and fitted to an axle with plain bearings, which were often of very crude design.\nFigure 3: Modern plastic rollers with the start of grooving (arrowed)\nToday, various types of plastic rollers (Figure 3) are used as well as wood. They are usually fitted with sealed ball bearings which give long trouble-free service and are virtually silent in operation. Note the dished face on which the rope runs. Note also that the smaller roller is just beginning to show signs of grooving from rope wear (arrowed).\nIntermediate chambers # We can see that a limited amount of rope draw is possible by varying the position of the ground pulley. Ideally, any draw below the ground pulley should be minimised but, in order to achieve a good rope circle, that may not be possible. An intermediate (or clock) chamber, if present, offers the possibility of drawing ropes.\nSmall amounts of draw can be accommodated by the rope running over Bosses (see below) in the ceiling and floor. “Small amounts” is difficult to define but a rule of thumb is up to 5cm horizontally per metre of height.\nFigure 4: Rope drawn in an intermediate chamber\nFor larger amounts of draw, single pulley blocks are required on the floor and ceiling of the chamber and possibly also boards with support rings. For a large draw, these boards avoid the rope dropping into a loop when slack and then snapping tight when force is applied. Figure 4 shows a top pulley, board, and support ring (left), with detail of the bottom pulley (right). The use of a board is preferred to an enclosed box section (usually called a ‘rope chute’) because this may channel excessive sound down into the ringing room and may hide rope wear. However, a rope passing through a clock case should be fully enclosed, to reduce the risk of rope fibres getting into the clock mechanism. This will also avoid a broken rope becoming entangled in the mechanism.\nRope bosses # A Rope Boss is a flange which protects the rope from wear as it passes through a floor or rope guide. The example is shown in Figure 5 is on the floor of a bell chamber, immediately below the ground pulley.\nFigure 5: Boss on a bell chamber floor\nBosses can be made of timber or metal:\nHardwood is popular because it maintains a smooth surface – softwood is also used but wears much faster than hardwood. Metal bosses can be made of cast iron, steel or aluminium. All of these corrode, even to a small extent, and this can lead to increased rope wear. Stainless steel does not corrode in a normal tower environment and a stainless-steel boss will retain a smooth polished surface. This is, however, an expensive option. Rope guides # Some ringing rooms can have very high ceilings. In this case, one or more rope guides may be fitted to control the fall of the ropes. Rope guides may also be used to draw the ropes into a better circle but the amount of draw should be kept to a minimum.\nFigure 6: Rope guide at St Mary Redcliffe\nFigure 6 shows the rope guide at St Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. This carries bosses for all 14 bells. Note the solid construction, which minimises movement and rope noise.\nIn contrast, the Title Picture shows the rope guide at Leonard Stanley, Glos – a ground floor ring, rung from the centre of the church. The rolled steel frame is suspended on rods, braced laterally with series of wires. It is reported to perform very well.\nThe height of the rope guide should be such that, when the Tenor bell is set at back stroke, the lower half of the sally is in the guide. But note that one of the reasons for fitting a guide is to assist the handling of smaller bells, which may be ‘flighty’. So, rope guides may be fitted on the front bells only.\nChecking and Fixing # Any problems with the rope route can lead to difficulties in handling a bell and wear on the rope. This chapter covers the checking and fixing of features in the rope route which may cause problems. Checking of the ropes themselves is covered in Ropes and, if possible, checks on the ropes and the rope routes should be combined.\nRollers and roller boxers # Procedure for checking rollers and roller boxes\nCheck that the roller box is securely mounted. Check for signs of rope wear on the sides of the roller box. Hold the rope away from the roller and spin it by hand. Check that the roller spins freely and quietly. Check that the roller is round and that any groove worn by the rope is less than a few mm deep. Problems identified in the procedure above should be dealt with as follows:\nRoller Box not securely mounted (1) # Check all fastenings securing the roller box and tighten as necessary.\nRope wear on the roller box (2) # Ideally, the rope should only contact the roller, not the side of the box. Signs of significant rope wear on the box will indicate a problem:\nFor a ground pulley, the most likely cause is that the bell wheel is not running true. Checks and remedies are given in Wheels. If the wheel is running true, it is possible that the ground pulley is not correctly aligned with the wheel. This may require assistance from a Bell Hanger, although an experienced Steeple Keeper may be able to correct this using packing pieces or modifications to the fixing points. For other pulleys used to draw a rope in the intermediate chamber, wear on the roller box is almost certainly due to misalignment. See Intermediate chambers, below. Roller not spinning freely and quietly (4) # This is unusual in a modern installation with sealed bearings on the roller. To check, remove the bolt from the axle and withdraw it. The roller should then drop out of the roller box and can be inspected in detail. The problem may be a seized or dirty bearing. A replacement should be obtained from a specialist bearing supplier or a Bell Hanger.\nFor older types of rollers with plain bearings, lubrication may solve the problem:\nIf the roller is fixed to its axle, the bearing is usually a metal plate fitted on each side of the box – a few drops of oil should be sufficient to stop any noise and permit free rotation. If the roller spins on an axle fixed to the box, run a few drops of oil down the inside face of the box, holding the roller to one side to facilitate this. This type of roller box often has a groove down each inside face to make this operation easier. The roller box may be fitted with ‘Stauffer’ type screw lubricators. An occasional turn of the cap will force sufficient grease into the bearing to last for some months. If the cap will screw down no further, remove it, fill with grease, and replace. Roller not round or grooved (5) # The face of a roller may develop a groove caused by wear from contact with the rope (see Figure 3). A small groove is acceptable but the roller should be replaced if the depth of the groove exceeds a few millimetres. With extensive use, rollers may become elliptical, with a deeper groove on one side. This is more likely for wooden rollers, particularly on the hand-stroke roller, with its heavier duty. In this case, the roller will need replacement.\nIntermediate chambers # Ropes dropping straight through an intermediate chamber should not present problems, although you should check that the assorted items that always seem to accumulate in these chambers are well away from the ropes.\nIf ropes are drawn, carry out the roller box and roller checks described above on the pulleys at both the floor and ceiling. Note that the ceiling check may require the use of a ladder – this is made much easier with modern telescopic ladders.\nIf you have recently taken over as steeple keeper, you should check that the pulleys on any drawn ropes are correctly aligned – with the axis of the pulley at right angles to the direction of drawing. Correcting this will require re-aligning the pulley. This may be possible using local labour; otherwise, contact a bell hanger.\nBosses and rope guides # Check all ceiling and rope guide bosses for signs of wear or looseness, particularly if they are used to draw ropes. Check metal bosses not made of stainless steel for corrosion, and polish if necessary. The height of a rope guide will make checking of these bosses difficult: binoculars may help, although a scaffold tower may be needed for a more thorough check.\nFigure 7: Detail of a boss on the rope guide at Redcliffe\nA problem which may be experienced with rope guides is that the sally develops an ‘hour-glass’ shape as it passes through the guide. This has been cured at Redcliffe by installing a longer boss (Figure 7). This comprises a stainless-steel boss below the rope guide and a 13cm wooden boss above, giving a 17cm tube in contact with the rope.\nRope bosses, whether on a floor or in a rope guide, can be noisy. This may be due to the floor or the rope guide structure being inadequately rigid. A Steeple Keeper can do little about this, although it might be worth considering if any alterations are planned for the floor or the guide.\nCeiling bosses may work loose with time, leading to rattling as the bell is rung. You may be able to deal with this by tightening screws or adding strengthening blocks on the floor above the boss.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Rope guide at Leonard Stanley, Glos. (Photo: Roger Bagley) 1 Rope moving over a double ground pulley, Thornbury, Glos. (Video: James Joynson) 2 Movement of the rope on a top-roped bell, St Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. (Video: Philip Pratt) 3 Modern plastic rollers. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Rope pulled in an intermediate chamber, Thornbury, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 5 Rope boss in a bell chamber floor, Thornbury, Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 6 Rope guide at St Mary Redcliffe, Bristol. (Photo: Philip Pratt) 7 Detail of a boss on the rope guide at Redcliffe. (Photo: Philip Pratt) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.1, September 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":11,"href":"/docs/120-ropes/","title":"Ropes","section":"Docs","content":" Ropes # The rope forms the essential connection between the bell and the ringer. It is a two-way communication – the ringer uses the rope to control the movement of the bell, while the rope provides information on the position of the bell and how fast it is moving.\nThe rope may have to negotiate obstacles between the bell and the ringer, such as pulleys, rope guides, rope chutes and rope bosses. These are covered in Rope Routes.\nRope Construction # Ropes are built up in three stages: First, fibres are gathered and spun into yarns. For ropes made of natural fibres (such as hemp or flax), Rope Makers may buy yarns ready spun: they resemble string. A group of yarns is then twisted to form a strand and three (or possibly four) strands are twisted together to form a rope. At each stage, the direction of twist is reversed - this gives stability and strength to the final rope.\nIt is important to note that the fibres in a natural rope are not continuous: the yarn can easily be picked apart. The successive reverse twists provide friction to hold the fibres together. This is illustrated in Figure 1, taken from A Seaman’s Pocket Book, 1943. (‘Hawser-laid’ is a traditional term for a three-strand rope.)\nFigure 1: The components of a natural fibre rope\nSince the 1970s, polyester ropes have been used for top ends of bell ropes. Some people still refer to this as ‘Terylene’, a brand name of that era which is no longer used. Other man-made materials have been used, so we will just refer to ‘artificial fibre’ to avoid confusion. While these ropes are still made up from strands, the fibres making up the strands are continuous.\nArtificial ropes with a braided outer cover have been developed for nautical and climbing applications. An early example was Dyneema® and this name is commonly used, although other versions are available. These products have been used for the top ends of bell ropes because of their very low stretch and hard-wearing properties.\nParts of a bell rope # Figure 2: Parts of a bell rope\nThe demands are different on different parts of a bell rope, shown in Figure 2:\nThe top end (A) needs to resist the atmosphere in the bell chamber and the wear and flexing experienced on the route to the ringing room. Where a top end is made of artificial fibre, a splice (B) is used to join the artificial top end to the bottom end. There are two possibilities: When a new rope is made with an artificial top end, the natural fibre of the bottom end is combined with the artificial fibre during manufacture to produce a ‘machine splice’ with very little change in the diameter of the rope, as can be seen at (B). This can only be done by a Rope Maker. If the sally and tail end of an existing natural fibre rope are in good condition, an artificial fibre top end can be spliced on, usually with a short splice. This can be done, if needed, by a Steeple Keeper experienced in splicing. A suitable artificial fibre top end can be sourced from a Rope Maker. Top end rope, be it natural or artificial, is not kind on ringers’ hands and natural fibre, wound to give a softer rope, is used for the bottom end of the rope – that part handled by the ringer. The two areas where the rope is handled are: The Sally (C), handled at the handstroke, is made of wool fibres incorporated into the rope as it is made. The Tail End (D), handled at the backstroke, is doubled back and tucked in. This allows adjustment of the tail end length and makes it more comfortable to handle. The very end of the rope will be finished (the term is ‘whipped’) to prevent fraying and to assist in tucking in the rope, as shown in Figure 3. Figure 3: Example of whipping at end of a tail end rope\nNatural or artificial? # Most steeple keepers would nowadays accept the benefits of using artificial fibre for the top ends of bell ropes:\nIt resists damage from the damp atmosphere in a bell chamber. It resists stretching. It resists wear. It resists damage caused by the bending of the rope as it exits the garter hole. Yorkshire tail ends # Figure 4: Yorkshire tail ends\nIt would be remiss not to mention Yorkshire tail ends. These have a small sally (Figure 4) at the tail end, rather than a doubled-back rope. Most Rope Makers can provide them if required. The Whiting Society have an article on Yorkshire tail ends here.\nOrdering new ropes # As the details of towers may vary, we advise discussing your needs with a Rope Maker. Also consider consulting a Rope Maker if you have inherited a rope that needs replacing: if you don’t know the history, the old rope may not have optimum dimensions.\nSpiders # Figure 5: A typical spider\nA spider is a device usually used to hoist bell ropes up to the ceiling when not in use, as shown in the Title Picture and Figure 5. The spider is a wood or metal object (often decorative) with hooks for the ropes. It is suspended on a cord which passes over one or more pulleys before coming down to a fixing point in the ringing room.\nThe spider is not there just to make the ringing room look tidy – it may be necessary to use it to secure the ropes from unwanted tampering.\nThe spider needs to be heavy enough to descend easily and reliably without the weight of the ropes, remembering that the pully may become stiff with age – reaching a stuck spider in a most ringing chambers would not be easy. The spider should also stop above normal head height, to avoid possible injury if the cord is accidentally let go. This can usually be achieved by running the cord through an eyebolt or similar above the fixing point, with a knot (ideally a ‘Figure-eight’ knot) to catch the cord at a safe height, as shown (arrowed) in Figure 6.\nFigure 6: A knot (arrowed) prevents the spider dropping below head height\nSomeone who knows about such things has pointed out that the device arrowed in Figure 6 is actually a type of cleat which would stop the rope if it was let slip. Well maybe, but better safe than sorry. Checking # The condition of the ropes should be checked regularly at the following areas as set out in the Maintenance Schedule.\nGarter hole # This is the point where the rope emerges from the wheel. Here it will experience tight turns in both directions as the bell swings from handstroke to backstroke. This is an area of greatest wear and must be checked regularly. The garter hole and the bobbins, see Wheels, should also be checked for smoothness and possible loose screws.\nNatural fibre ropes are prone to this form of wear, and it is good practice to adjust the rope up and down a little to spread the wear. Artificial fibre ropes are usually more resistant to this type of wear but should still be checked at this point.\nPulleys, Bosses, Rope Chutes \u0026amp; Rope Guides # These areas are described in Rope Routes. A particular area of wear, possibly worse than that at the garter hole, is about 45cm (18 in) from the garter hole, where the rope passes over the ground pulley. The wear arises from the rope having to accelerate and decelerate the pulley at every stroke.\nUnless you are lucky enough to have straight drops from the ground pulley to the ringers there will be general wear resulting from other components which may rub against the rope or change its direction. But this will be distributed along a length of the rope and is not a major problem unless there is a ‘rogue component’ causing more local wear. This should be detected by the checks described in Rope Routes. Once again, the problem is minimised using artificial fibre top ends.\nSally # A sally might experience wear at its top if it passes through a rope guide or a boss in a low ceiling. There may also be wear within the length of a sally if it falls within a boss or rope guide at backstroke. Factors like this should be made known to a Rope Maker when ordering ropes as it may be possible to adjust the sally to compensate.\nIf woollen strands are sticking out from a sally you can carefully trim them off. Do not attempt to pull them out. However, if the sally is dropping wool or starting to come apart you should contact a Rope Maker as a repair may be possible.\nTail end # Tail ends are often the first part of a rope to need repair. There are two main causes:\nOn larger bells, with their bigger wheels, the rope may repeatedly hit the floor when the bell is rung. Ropes perform best in tension and the bottom of a loop hitting the floor horizontally may open the strands. This parts the fibres and loosens the rope structure, leading to wear at this point. There is a view that rope mats will help to avoid wear, so long as they are made of wool, rather than artificial fibre. Apart from that possibility, you can either live with this or install permanent boxes on affected bells. Ringers adjusting the tail end length. This may take two forms: Untucking and tucking the tail end, common before the start of a peal or quarter peal. This is acceptable, provided it is done carefully, using a wooden spike, known as a fid, to separate the strands. Metal spikes should not be used: the risk of damaging the strands is too great. Tying a knot – usually a ‘Figure-eight’ knot – to shorten a long rope. This is a short-term measure – perhaps just for one touch at a practice. This is acceptable so long as the knot is removed after use – if a knot is left in for too long it tightens, with possible damage to the rope when it is eventually untied. Also, knots should be removed before bells are lowered. Spider cord \u0026amp; pulleys # The spider cord will be of smaller diameter than a bell rope and the pulleys will probably be less sophisticated than bell pulleys. It is important to check for wear on the cord and free running of the pulleys.\nRepairs # If ropes are kept in a good condition, with regular checks for wear and other damage, a rope should not break during ringing. But a Steeple Keeper will need to be able to deal with wear or other damage before a breakage, or to replace a rope. Also, there may be an urgent need to deal with a broken rope when visiting a tower not fortunate enough to have a capable Steeple Keeper. Splicing # Most repairs to bell ropes involve splicing. With practice, this can be carried out by the Steeple Keeper. We do not discuss the details further here as excellent guidance from the late Frank Beech is available in ‘Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated’, available here. This includes details of how to splice an artifical fibre top end onto an exisisting sally.\nWith natural fibre top ends, splicing was often needed because of wear at the garter hole and over the ground pulley. There was a common recommendation to order ropes longer than required to provide extra rope for repairs, with the excess being tied off at the wheel. With the much better wear properties of artificial fibre top ends this is not necessary.\nThe need for repair of a tail end is more likely and this can be carried out by a Steeple Keeper competent in making a short splice. Note that this must be done using ‘tail end’ rope to provide suitably soft handling. Bell Hangers and Rope Makers can provide lengths of such rope, with one end finished with a whipping to prevent fraying (see Figure 3). Even if a tail end seems to be beyond repair, it is worth discussing this with a Rope Maker. There may be other options available which are cheaper than a new rope.\nSpare ropes # If a repair cannot be carried out quickly, it may be useful to have a spare rope available. There is no need to hold a complete set of spare ropes: that is a waste of space and money. Depending on the range of sizes between your Treble and Tenor, up to three spares should be adequate to provide a temporary replacement for any bell.\nSpare ropes should not be kept in a poorly ventilated cupboard. Ideally, they should be hung in a tidy coil in the ringing room, possibly in bags made of natural fibre to allow the ropes to \u0026lsquo;breathe\u0026rsquo;. This will also avoid the risk of attack by mice (Figure 7). Figure 7: Rope attacked by mice while stored in a cupboard\nFitting a new rope # This is a job for at least two people: one in the bell chamber and the other in the ringing room. The Health \u0026amp; Safety aspects described in Health \u0026amp; Safety must be considered. Ideally, two people in the bell chamber would be preferable – at the least, an assistant can hold the rope in position while it is tied off on the wheel.\nUnless you have a very straight drop from the bell to the ringing room, it is much easier if two ropes are involved. For simplicity, we will call these the ‘new’ and ‘old’ ropes. You have a choice:\nIn the ringing room, tie the top of the new rope to the old rope’s tail end and pull the new one up using the old rope, or Take the new rope up to the bell chamber, tie the bottom of the new rope to the top of the old rope and lower both ropes down. Either option finishes with a whole bell rope in the bell chamber, with the risk of it getting tangled or dirty. (This is where an assistant in the bell chamber is valuable.) If this is an issue, you could consider obtaining a thinner plain feeding rope and using that to lower the old rope and then pull up the new one. The top end of the new rope is then fed through the garter hole on the wheel and gently pulled up until the assistant in the ringing room stops the rope at the correct sally height.\nThere are various ways of establishing the correct sally height. One option is to keep a record of the correct distance between the bottom of each sally and the floor; another option is to have a wooden stick marked with the correct height for each sally. Pragmatically, if the assistant in the ringing room is an experienced ringer you could just rely on their judgement. The rope is then tied off on the top spokes of the wheel, see Figure 8. Details are given in Splicing Bell Ropes – Illustrated.\nFigure 8: Rope tied off on the main spokes of the wheel\nRope stretch # A new rope – or even a spare rope that has not been in use for a while – may exhibit some stretch when first used. Just a little stretch makes a bell more difficult to ring. Even experts must pull harder to control the bell and learners may be put off.\nWhen ropes were made of natural fibre, it was common to hang a weight on the tail end, with the bell down, for a few days to reduce or eliminate stretch. With most top ends now made of artificial fibre, this is often not thought necessary. But many new ropes will have some stretch in the sally and tail end. Also, a rope of uncertain provenance may have an artificial top end with some stretch.\nThe extent and source of any stretch can be checked as follows.\nFor safety, this should be carried out by experienced ringers, with others staying out of the way. Set the bell at backstroke Carefully pull the tail end and check how far your hands move before the bell just lifts off the stay. If this is around more than an inch or so you may have a problem. At the same time, ask a helper to check how far the top of the sally moves. If this is more than an inch or so, there is stretch in the top end. If there is any evidence of stretch, you should be able to improve the situation by hanging a weight of around 25kg on the tail end (with the bell down) for a few days, or longer if necessary. If the stretch is in an artificial fibre top end you should consider having that replaced.\nRope Driers # Ropes may become stiff in damp unheated ringing rooms. It may be possible to install a dehumidifier in a small ringing room but this would not be effective in the average size room. Ringers have produced home-made electrically heated rope driers but there are concerns over a lack of guidance on the safety of these. Following discussion with interested parties, suggestions have been prepared and these are included as an Appendix to this chapter.\nImage Credits # Figure Details Title Picture Ropes on a spider at St Germanus, St Germans, Cornwall. Front cover of The Ringing World , 12 November 2021. Used with permission. (Photo: James Wray) 1 Parts of a ‘Hawser Laid’ (three strand) rope, from A Seaman’s Pocket Book, 1943. Public domain document, see here. 2 Parts of a bell rope. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Example of whipping at end of a tail end rope. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 4 Yorkshire tail ends. (Photo: Alison Hodge) 5 A typical spider, at Thornbury, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 6 Knot to prevent a spider dropping below head height. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 7 Rope attacked by mice while stored in a cupboard. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 8 Rope tied off on the main spokes of a wheel, at Wickwar, South Glos. (Photo: Robin Shipp) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.2.0, March 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":12,"href":"/docs/130-bells/","title":"Bells","section":"Docs","content":" Bells # Bells are important as the public voice of the church – familiar to those living near or passing by. Made of cast bronze (an alloy of about 77% copper and 23% tin), they have been associated with English churches since at least the seventh century. The oldest surviving bells date from about the twelfth century, although these are rarely part of a ring of bells. However, it is not unusual to find a pre-reformation (pre-1534) bell still in use.\nAround the middle of the nineteenth century, some church bells were cast in steel, as a cheaper alternative to bronze. Manufacture was discontinued after about twenty years but some rings of steel bells are still in use.\nDevelopment of Bells # Figure 1: Parts of a bell\nFigure 1 shows a pre-reformation bell, cast around 1450, and illustrating the main parts of a bell:\n(A) Almost every bell cast before the end of the 19th century had loops cast into the crown of the bell called ‘canons’ (sometimes ‘cannons’), together with a taller central loop called the ‘argent’ (partly missing on this bell). These were used to suspend the bell from a headstock.\n(B) The top of the bell is termed the ‘crown’.\n(C) is the ‘shoulder’, for obvious reasons.\n(D) is the ‘inscription band’ – incorporated onto the bell during founding. On pre-reformation bells this is usually liturgical – ”SANCTE MICHAEL ORA PRO NOBIS” on this bell. On a modern bell this will usually give the founder’s name and a date.\n(E) is the ‘waist’ of the bell. Modern bells may have an inscription giving more information here.\n(F) is the ‘soundbow’ – the point where the clapper strikes the inside of the bell.\n(G) is the ‘lip’ of the bell.\nAt one time, canons were accidentally (or deliberately) broken or cut off the crown and the bell was then secured to the headstock with bolts passing through the crown. The historical value of canons is now recognised and such bells can continue in use with canon-retaining headstocks – see Headstocks for more details.\nFigure 2: Modern flat-topped bell\nFor over a hundred years, new bells have been cast with flat tops and bolted directly to the headstock with a wood or epoxy spacer, as shown in Figure 2. This bell was cast in 2000 by the Whitechapel Bell Foundry and installed by Whites of Appleton as the new treble during the augmentation to eight of the ring at Chipping Sodbury.\nChecking for Problems # There is little a Steeple Keeper can do in terms of maintenance of the bells, but regular checking will identify any problems, which may then require action.\nSurface finish # The shiny finish on a new bell will not remain for long: the patina which appears with age on a bronze bell is quite natural and there should be no attempts to remove it. The most that should be done is to remove any deposits or stains which may appear. The bells must also be protected when the frame, headstocks, or other parts of the installation are painted.\nStains on a bell may reveal problems elsewhere. For example:\nOil or grease stains may result from a leaking oil seal on a ball bearing or spillage from lubrication of a plain bearing. Evidence of either of these requires action, as described in Bearings. In earlier times, white spirit was widely used to remove oil or grease, but it is now recognised that this is harmful to health and difficult to dispose of safely. Low volatile organic compound (VOC) degreasers are now widely available and must be used for cleaning. See Health \u0026amp; Safety. Bird droppings will reveal the need to check the tower’s bird protection – possibly damaged netting on the louvres. Small amounts of bird droppings can be removed with a damp cloth, but extensive bird ingress requires specialist cleaning because of the risk of infection.\nWater stains may reveal problems with weather protection, or damage to the roof. This will require action by the church authorities.\nWear on the soundbow # Wear will result from the impact of the clapper on the inside of the soundbow. This normally results in a small area of bright metal.\nThe impact area may become elongated as a result of a worn clapper bush or a loose crown staple. But this should be detected by the checks described in Clappers. In time, the impact area will become deeper. If it becomes deeper than about 10% of the thickness, there is risk of the bell cracking. The extent of wear can be checked by a Steeple Keeper with the use of a pair of outside calipers.\nProcedure for measuring depth of impact area\nMeasure the thickness of the soundbow at its thinnest point using the calipers. Measure the thickness of the soundbow either side of the thinned area at the same distance from the lip of the bell as the centre of the thinned area and calculate the average unworn thickness. If the difference between the worn and unworn thickness is greater than about 10%, then the bell must be checked by a bell hanger. The usual remedy for excessive wear is to rehang the bell turned through 90° (termed ‘quarter turning’). This is definitely a job for a bell hanger and will require approval from the relevant authorities.\nCracking # Figure 3: Bell cracked and broken from a cast-in crown staple\nA cracked bell is a serious problem. Even a small crack may grow and result in a complete failure of the bell (Figure 3). Cracks may be found in the following places:\nThe most likely location is in the crown of a bell with a cast-in iron crown staple, or the remains of one. Iron corrodes with time and the corroded staple expands in the crown of the bell, generating stresses which will ultimately lead to cracking of the bell, as you can see in Figure 3. Given the difficulty of access and the likely surface condition it will be difficult to detect a crack in the crown visually. The only reliable safeguard is to remove all traces of a cast-in staple – see Clappers. Where a bell is hung by its canons, cracks may be found around the canons. This area should be inspected visually at regular intervals, although this inspection may not be reliable because of the surface condition and because cracks may be hidden by the headstock. The only reliable remedy is to avoid stress on the canons by rehanging the bell with a modern canon-retaining headstock. Cracked bells require the services of a bell hanger. A Steeple Keeper may, however, perform a valuable function by recognising the possibility of a problem, or even identifying a possible crack.\nSome cracked bells may be repaired by welding. If feasible, this allows a historic bell to be retained in use safely. But this is NOT routine welding and, currently, there is only one company known to provide the service. Damage from chiming hammers # Bells should be checked for damage if they are used as clock bells, for manual chiming, as part of a carillon or Ellacombe apparatus, or other systems in which hammers strike the bells.\nThe following precautions must be observed to avoid damage to the bells – and to the chiming mechanism:\nAny hammers must be capable of being pulled clear of the bells before full circle ringing. The mechanism for chiming the bells, be it a clock, manual chime or an Ellacombe apparatus, must be correctly installed and maintained in good condition. The mechanism for pulling the hammers clear must be checked regularly. The means for pulling hammers off must be clearly visible in the Ringing Room, and its status must be obvious. If the Ellacombe apparatus is not located in the Ringing Room, arrangement must be made to ensure that it is locked off when ringing is taking place. Ringers must exercise a culture of always ensuring all hammers are off before ringing starts – and restoring them when ringing finishes. The use of reversible notices saying “chimes on/off” is discouraged since their accuracy cannot be guaranteed and may discourage actual checks. Persons operating an Ellacombe apparatus (who may not be regular ringers) must be instructed in the use of the apparatus: over-enthusiastic use may damage the bells. Image Credits # Figure Details Title Picture The Treble bell at Derby Cathedral. (Photo: Roger Lawson) 1 Bell cast c1450, showing the main parts. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 2 Modern flat-topped bell. (Photo: Robin Shipp) 3 Bell cracked and broken from a cast-in crown staple. (Photo: John Taylor \u0026amp; Co) Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.1, September 2022\n© 2022 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":13,"href":"/docs/150-maintenance-schedule/","title":"Maintenance Schedule","section":"Docs","content":" Maintenance Schedule # The maintenance schedule is an important document:\nIt defines what items need regular checking and how often. It includes provision for recording the results, including any remedial work carried out or still outstanding. It provides evidence that the schedule has been observed in case of any incidents. This chapter includes a model schedule and reporting sheets for download and modification to suit the needs of your tower, and guidance on how that modification can be carried out.\nFor convenience, the term “Church” is here used to mean the authorities responsible for the tower – the Church Wardens and PCC in the Church of England, or their equivalents in other denominations world-wide. It can also be taken to cover those responsible for non-religious buildings which include rings of bells – for example, the Town Council for a municipal ring. Model Schedule # A suggested model schedule – which also acts as a checklist – is here for you to download and save. This is not meant to be prescriptive. If you would prefer to produce the schedule in a different way that is fine. But we hope the information given here will be useful.\nThe model schedule is in .docx format, which can be read by most word processing programmes, including Microsoft Word and Libre Office Writer. You may need to tell your browser to accept downloads from Belfry Upkeep. Note that different browsers may handle downloads in different ways. The model schedule is three pages long so, to give an idea of the content, Figure 1 shows the top part of the first page and the bottom part of the third. When modified to suit your tower, this will be filled in when checks are carried out, with one sheet per year. Note that there is a space at the bottom of the last page to record the name(s) of those carrying out the checks.\nFigure 1: Screenshot of the beginning and end of the downloaded model schedule\nAll towers vary, so you will now need to modify the downloaded file to suit the needs of your own tower. How you do this is up to you, but we will provide some guidance. You may also be able to obtain advice from other local towers or your local Ringing Association.\nAs a start, you will need to enter details of your tower. You can personalise this as you wish: change the colour, add a photograph or whatever. Note that this document is set up to repeat the tower details at the top of each page.\nPlease remember that you must not become a slave to the schedule. A Steeple Keeper must always be ready for unexpected events: Did someone just bump a stay heavily? Is an experienced ringer complaining that a bell is not going as well as usual? In cases like this, a good Steeple Keeper will check as soon as possible, rather than waiting for the next scheduled inspection. You will see later that there are report sheets to cover such occasions. There are three main factors you need to consider as you personalise the schedule further, as set out below.\nRelationship with the Church # You should share and explain your schedule with the Church, remembering that they may not be familiar with all aspects of a bell installation. You should make it clear that your inspections and any remedial work you need to carry out, or commission from a Bell Hanger, aims to protect the church from a much more expensive outlay in the long run, and the possibility of damage, injury or both.\nSome items in the model schedule are the responsibility of the Church: portable appliance tests and checks on fire extinguishers, for example. Your responsibility here is to warn the Church if they are overdue in the tower – it is not unknown for contractors to forget about items ‘upstairs’. Most churches are subject to a Quinquennial Inspection, usually carried out by the church architect. You should work with the Church to ensure that this covers the tower (not always the case) and that the Steeple Keeper is able to liaise with the inspecting architect on matters associated with the bell installation.\nIt is possible that the Steeple Keeper may agree with the Church to accept responsibility for some of ‘their’ checks – maybe the checks on lighting if the responsible Churchwarden in unable to deal with the stairs. In these cases, you must agree a reporting format, sign off checks as they are done appropriately and ensure that the results are placed in the church records.\nSome areas within a tower will be shared with others: the clock winder or the person who puts up the flag, for example. In these cases, you need to be clear where your area of responsibility ends. Ground floor rings are very often shared spaces; ringers may share such space with the choir, cleaning equipment, flower arrangers, even equipment for maintaining the churchyard, and so on.\nContent of the schedule # This is where you remove the items not applicable to your installation or add ones peculiar to your tower which are not covered in the model schedule. Note that the items in the schedule follow the same order as the chapters in Belfry Upkeep. The relevant chapter provides details of the checks to be carried out. In addition, your local Guild or Association may be able to provide advice.\nThe items under ‘General’ may be more difficult – every tower is different and liaison with the Church may be essential. In many cases, these will be the responsibility of the Church and, as noted above, the Steeple Keeper will check that they have not been missed or will carry them out by agreement with the Church.\nTiming of the checks # The model schedule assumes four checks, at three-monthly intervals, with one sheet per year. While this is a good starting point, it may not be suitable for your tower. Almost certainly, you will not need to check everything on the list four times each year. You should be able to identify ‘Major’ and ‘Minor’ checks. Items not needed in Minor checks can be greyed-out on that box in the schedule. Major checks are best carried out in the Spring and Autumn, to avoid extremes of climate, and other checks may need to be carried out at certain times of the year. An example of this is checks on the tightness of fixings on wooden components, which are best carried out in the Autumn, on the optimistic assumption that Summer will be dry with the possibility of wood shrinking.\nIf usage of the bells is light – perhaps only Sundays and practice nights – you might judge that twice-yearly checks are adequate. For the reasons given above, a minor check in the Spring and a major one in the Autumn is probably the best choice.\nAnyone with a basic understanding of word processors should be able to convert the four columns in the model schedule to two columns. You should consider changing the checking frequency based on experience. Initially, to be on the safe side, you might check a component every three months. You could then consider extending the frequency to six months or longer if these checks show no change.\nDepending on the installation and usage of the bells, some checks may be required more frequently than quarterly. Some examples are:\nA monthly short functional check is a requirement for emergency lighting. If you are teaching learners, with frequent bumping of stays, a monthly check for cracking may be prudent (although you should perhaps also review the way you teach leaners). It may be wise to complete a check before a major event – for example, a striking competition, a peal or quarter peal marking a special occasion that you would not wish to lose as a consequence of inadequate prior checks Take the opportunity to undertake checks when putting on or removing muffles, when you will necessarily be climbing around the belfry We cannot cover all eventualities so, if this is an issue for you, you will need to devise your own check sheet covering more frequent checks.\nExample of schedule # To illustrate the points above, the first part of a (fictitious) example schedule is shown in Figure 2. Comparing it with Figure 1, you will see that this tower has a metal bell frame and traditional stays and sliders. Non-relevant items have been deleted and some inspection intervals have been ‘greyed-out’ where not considered necessary. (You may argue with these but, remember, it is just an example.) It also includes some example results needing action, which will be discussed in the next section.\nFigure 2: Example Schedule, with results\nRecording and Reporting # Recording # Optimistically, most items on the schedule will not require action after checking, so we have suggested small boxes for reporting each item. If no action is needed, these can be completed with a tick or ‘OK’. However, some items might need attention. Examples are:\nA minor problem that was corrected during the checking – for example, a loose nut was tightened. Something was noted which will need attention – for example, a rope might be showing signs of wear and will need repair or replacement. To deal with these, we suggest the use of ‘Action Tracking’ sheets, which are available here for you to modify.\nFigure 3 is a screenshot of this document.\nFigure 3: Screenshot of Action Tracking Sheet\nEach item needing attention should be shown by a consecutive number on the reporting sheet – in Figure 2 we suggest the year followed by a number. This is then used as the ‘Action Reference’ on the tracking sheet. The action sheet will also show the dates that the action was raised and when completed. To cover all possibilities the remainder of the tracking sheet is blank but the entry should indicate:\nThe urgency of the work: Was it carried out during the check? Does it indicate a progressive problem which needs monitoring? Is it serious enough to present a risk to personnel or the installation? In which case, immediate action will be required. Whether the work can be carried out by local effort or if assistance is needed, either from the local Guild or Association or from a bell hanger. The ‘Details’ column records the action(s) taken, with dates and the name(s) of those involved in the right hand column. Note that the lists of actions needed may extend over some time. The table is designed to expand, if necessary, over more than one page.\nIf a problem arises outside the normal checking schedule, a tracking sheet should be used to record it and the actions taken. Example of action tracking # To illustrate the use of the Action Tracking form, Figure 4 shows two example forms filled in with the actions from the example schedule in Figure 2.\nFigure 4: Examples of completed Action Tracking forms\nYou will see that Action 1 is a case where a lose stay bolt has immediately been rectified. Action 2 is a case where possibly increased clapper bush wear has been noted; immediate action has not been felt necessary but the situation needs to be checked at the next inspection, when the same tracking form will be updated.\nReporting # We cannot be dogmatic here about who should see the reports of checks and any resulting actions. This depends on the relationship between the ringers and the Church. Some points to consider are:\nThe easy way would be simply to copy reports to all personnel connected with the Church. That is also the easiest way to ensure that nobody will read them. A better way is to identify an individual within the Church who takes an interest and accepts the responsibility of maintaining contact with the ringers – in the Church of England, this might be one of the Churchwardens. Another way is for one of the ringers to be a member of the local Church organisation – the Parochial Church Council maybe. A further way is for the Steeple Keeper to present an annual report to the Church, preferably in person. Any major incidents would, of course, be reported at the time they occur. Whatever option is adopted, the records must be stored, electronically or on paper, in a form that can be recovered if the Steeple Keeper changes or is not available. Next Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 2.1, October 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":14,"href":"/docs/160-fault-finding/","title":"Fault Finding","section":"Docs","content":" Fault Finding # Common Problems with Bells # This downloadable PDF, originally produced as a separate document on the Central Council website, offers a way of identifying some of the more common faults with bells and indicates how they may be solved. The difficulty and urgency of each diagnosis is indicated by codes, along with a guide to permissions which may be required before work is carried out (based on the Faculty Jurisdiction Rules). Less experienced Steeple Keepers should consult the relevant chapter(s) in this document before attempting to carry out any work.\nNext Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, February 2024\n© 2024 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":15,"href":"/docs/170-glossary/","title":"Glossary","section":"Docs","content":" Glossary # As with any technical subject, bell ringing and bell hanging has, over the years, developed specialist terms some of which are unique to ringing and others which have particular meaning when applied to ringing. Some other technical terms may not be familiar to ringers. We hope to have included all of these here. They are linked from the text in the various chapters. Items appearing elsewhere in the glossary are shown in Bold.\nArgent # The central boss on the crown of older bells, around which the Canons are grouped. These are used to attach the bell to the Headstock.\nBaldric (or Baldrick) # A U-shaped metal strap with leather lining, traditionally used to suspend clappers. The name originates from a belt worn over one shoulder to support a sword or bugle.\nBell Chamber # The space within a tower where the bells are situated. Sometime referred to as the \u0026ldquo;Belfry\u0026rdquo;.\nBobbins # Shaped blocks on the rim of a Wheel designed to reduce the radius of curvature as the rope emerges from the Garter Hole.\nCanons # (Sometimes \u0026lsquo;Cannons\u0026rsquo;). The loops cast onto the crown of older bells, by which the bell is suspended from the Headstock.\nClapper # The component suspended inside a bell which, when the bell is swung, strikes the bell to produce the note.\nCoach Bolts # Coach bolts (sometimes referred to as \u0026lsquo;Carriage Bolts\u0026rsquo;) are used in a bell installation for bolting a wooden component to either a metal or wooden component - most often to bolt a Stay onto a Headstock. The square section under the domed head bites into the wood, securing the head while the nut is tightened.\nDeath Watch Beetle # The Death Watch Beetle infests old damp oak and elm timbers – thus representing a threat to timber bell frames and headstocks. The adult beetle lays eggs in crevices and inside tunnels left by previous larvae. The larvae bore into the timber, feeding for up to ten years before pupating, later emerging from the wood as adult beetles. The adults attract mates by a tapping sound that can be heard in old buildings (such as churches) on quiet summer nights. The beetles can be killed by targeted use of insecticide, although a view has been expressed that prevention is better than cure.\nDiocesan Advisory Committee (DAC) # Within the Church of England, the DAC is the lead body in the diocese for advice on the care and development of church buildings; providing advice to parishes, Archdeacons, and the Diocesan Chancellor. It has a key role to promote good practice in the maintenance and development of church buildings. Before considering a faculty application, the Chancellor is obliged to take advice from the DAC. The DAC will appoint one or more DAC Bells Advisers. Towers will benefit by maintaining contact with their local Adviser.\nDrawing (ropes) # Where it is impossible to obtain a straight drop from the Ground Pulley to the ringer the rope may be ‘Drawn’ away from a straight fall. This may be accomplished by a double Ground Pulley or additional pulleys in an Intermediate Chamber.\nEllacombe Apparatus # A system intended for tune ringing, consisting of a set of hammers arranged to strike the inside of the bells, operated from the ringing room or lower in the tower by pulling sleeved ropes mounted in a frame, operated by one person. Arrangements MUST be in place to ensure that, when ringing is taking place, the hammers are pulled clear and the apparatus cannot be operated accidentally.\nFid # A pointed instrument made of wood, used to open up the strands of a bell rope for tucking in a Tail End, or to open a knot that has worked tight. A marlin spike is similar but is made of metal and should not be used on bell ropes to avoid damage to the rope. The smaller fid shown above was left at a tower as a \u0026rsquo;thank you present\u0026rsquo; by a visiting band, one of whose members is a skilled wood turner.\nFigure-eight Knot # A knot useful for temporary shortening of a Tail End or as a \u0026lsquo;stopper knot\u0026rsquo;, for example to prevent a Spider dropping too far if the cord is let slip. (The figure above shows the knot before it is pulled tight.)\nFretting # Fretting refers to wear damage of loaded surfaces in contact with little or no lubrication, encountering movement tangential to the surface. Fretting is caused by adhesion of surface asperities, which are then broken by the small movement.\nGarter Hole # A hole in the rim of a Wheel through which the rope passes in order to be secured to the spokes.\nGrease Nipple # Designs vary, but this is a device for lubricating a component with moving parts. A grease gun locks on to the nipple and grease can be pumped in. The picture above is of a grease nipple (arrowed) at the top end of a clapper, which allows lubrication of the clapper bush \u0026ndash; see Clappers. Grease nipples may be found on some ball bearing housings: these are used to charge the bearing with grease on manufacture and should not be pumped with grease during use. This is a sure way of damaging the seals on the bearing \u0026ndash; see Bearings.\nGround Pulley # A pulley in the bottom of the bell pit - the first pulley the rope passes through after leaving the Wheel. The rope passes round this pulley as the bell goes up to handstroke. If the rope does not drop vertically at backstroke there will be a second ground pulley in a double pulley block (sometimes called a \u0026lsquo;roller box\u0026rsquo;).\nGudgeons # The steel shafts fixed to the Headstock that form the axle about which the bell rotates.\nHeadstock # A wood or metal beam supporting the bell. The Wheel, Stay and Gudgeons are attached to the headstock.\nIntermediate Chamber # The space in most towers between the Ringing Rooom and the Bell Chamber. It often contains the church clock, when it may be called the \u0026ldquo;Clock Chamber\u0026rdquo;. The ropes pass through this chamber and may be drawn here to achieve a good rope circle. In many towers, this chamber is used a a general dumping ground for rubbish and this must be kept under control.\nOutside Caliper # A tool used to measure thickness. Used to check the depth of a clapper impact dent - see Bells.\nPsittacosis # Psittacosis is an infection of birds caused by the bacterium Chlamydia psittaci. Birds can transmit C. psittaci to humans; the resulting infection is also known as psittacosis or ornithosis.\nRinging Room # The space in a tower from where the bells are rung.\nSally # The tufted handgrip on a rope, used to pull at handstroke.\nSpider # A device with hooks on which bell ropes can be hung in order to be raised above head level when not in use.\nStauffer Lubricator # A screw cap lubricator used on older clapper bushes or roller box bearings. The cap is filled with grease and given a turn occasionally to force grease into the bearing. When fully turned, the cap is removed and re-filled with grease.\nStay # Wooden bar attached to a Headstock that under normal usage prevents a bell moving beyond the point of balance when set.\nTail End # The end of the rope, usually doubled back on itself (except for Yorkshire tail ends), used to pull at backstroke.\nTwiddle Pin # A threaded pin either side of a metal headstock, screwed in to contact the clapper staple. Slackening one and tightening the other allows the clapper to be moved to provide an even strike. Officially called \u0026lsquo;clapper adjustment screws\u0026rsquo; or \u0026lsquo;clapper centring pins\u0026rsquo;. See Clappers.\nWheel # A circular wooden component attached to the Headstock by which the rope is attached to the bell, permitting it to be rung full circle. See Wheels.\nImage Credits # Glossary Item Details Baldric Baldric clapper suspension at Stone, Glos. Photo: Andrew Ward Coach Bolts Photo: Robin Shipp Fid Photo: Robin Shipp Figure-eight Knot Photo: Robin Shipp Grease Nipple Enlarged from a photo by Allen Nunley Outside Caliper Photo: Robin Shipp Stauffer Lubricator From Manual of Belfry Maintenance, photographer unknown Last Chapter - Previous Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, September 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":16,"href":"/docs/180-acks-and-sources/","title":"Acknowledgements \u0026 Sources","section":"Docs","content":" Acknowledgements \u0026amp; Sources # This chapter lists the people who have contributed, in various ways, to this document, and the sources which have been consulted.\nAcknowledgements # Production Software: Hugo Static Site Generator, Book Theme.\nFor technical advice: Bryn Reimer, Mark Elvers, Lucas Williams and Graham John.\nFor words, pictures, reviews, comments and general assistance: Tina Andrew, David Bagley, John Beresford, Marcus Booth, Will Bosworth, Keith Brown, Dave Clark, Graham Clifton, Tony Crabtree, Alan Frost, Alison Hodge, James Joynson, Roger Lawson, Ernie de Legh-Runciman, Julia Lysaght, Robin Milford, Alan Moult, Allen Nunley, John Payton, Chris Pickford, Chris Povey, Philip Pratt, Mark Regan, Simon Ridley, David Roskelly, Robin Shipp, Malcolm Taylor, Aveline Perez de Vera, Andrew Ward, Peter Woollam.\nSources # Beech, F (2005) Splicing Bell Ropes Illustrated. Available from CC Shop.\nBrooke, C J (1994) The Archaeology of Bellframes – Recording \u0026amp; Preservation. Institute of Field Archaeologists Buildings Special Interest Group. ISBN0 900986 13 1.\nCattermole P, (1990) Church Bells and Bell-Ringing – A Norfolk profile. Boydell Press, Woodbridge. ISBN 978-1-84383-782-4.\nCBC/EH (2011) Church Bell Frames: guidance notes for identifying historic significance and preparing reports. Online here (pdf).\nCC Towers \u0026amp; Belfries Committee (2020) Manual of Belfry Maintenance. Available from CC Shop.\nCentral Council of Church Bell Ringers (1979) Maintenance Handbook. (Out of print).\nCentral Council of Church Bell Ringers (1991) A Schedule of Regular Maintenance. ISBN 0 900271 21 1. (Out of print).\nFrost, Alan J (Ed) (2006) Towers and Bells. Available from CC Shop.\nHarrison, John (Regularly updated) Glossary of Ringing Terms. Online here.\nJennings, T S (1991) The Development of British Bell Fittings. ISBN 0 9500076 4 1 (Out of print).\nPickford, C (Undated) Bellframes – A practical guide to inspection and recording. Privately published. Available online here (note copyright restrictions).\nPrevious Chapter Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0.2, April 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":17,"href":"/docs/040-health-and-safety/avian-flu/","title":"Avian Influenza","section":"Health \u0026 Safety","content":" Appendix: Cleaning Bell Chambers Contaminated with Bird Waste or Carcasses # With reference to avian influenza / bird flu # Birds finding their way into towers, particularly bell chambers, has been an issue that ringers have had to deal with and try to prevent for as long as bells have been hung in towers. I find it interesting to think that back in the 1300\u0026rsquo;s some monastery servant, sexton or local labourer would have been tasked with climbing the tower with a sack and a shovel to remove sticks, nests and carcasses just as I have done. The sack would have been made of sackcloth not polyethylene, but otherwise it\u0026rsquo;s a shared human experience that links my life with one perhaps 30 generations ago.\nMusings aside though, the job of clearing the sticks, feathers and carcasses is an important one and is not without its risks. At present, with avian influenza cases at a high level and special precautions and restrictions in place to try to limit its spread, we need to be more careful than ever when undertaking this least pleasant of a steeple-keeper\u0026rsquo;s tasks.\nThe risks involved fall into two basic categories: the mechanical and the biological. The mechanical risks are those you would still be exposed to in a pristine, newly built tower with a new ring of bells installed; trips, falls, proximity to heavy machinery with the potential to move suddenly, etc. For the purposes of this article, I will take these as read and move on to the biological risks.\nAs biological risks go, handling dead birds is a fairly nasty prospect. Even the dust from the feathers of a live, healthy bird can carry bacteria which cause psittacosis or other diseases. Add to this the currently increased risk of contracting H5N1 or other variants of bird flu and the need for proper precautions becomes irrefutable. This is without even mentioning such delights as post-mortem decay or droppings laden with fungi and bacteria which can cause histoplasmosis, candidiasis, cryptococcosis, St. Louis encephalitis, E. Coli, or salmonella, to name a few.\nDue to these significant risks, there is a very strong case for contracting a specialist in cases where there is a great deal of contamination and this should be considered even in moderate cases.\nIf you need to do the work yourself, the best practice for dealing with bird waste, carcasses and nest material is fairly simple and the gist of it is to avoid any contact with the hazardous materials.\nBefore embarking on a cleaning mission in the tower you need to prepare your equipment. This will include:\nFFP3 (AKA P3) filtered face masks for everyone involved in the cleaning. Overalls (disposable ones are available if you don\u0026rsquo;t have your own). Disposable gloves. Disposable overshoes. A change of clothes and shoes in a plastic bag. A shovel. A dustpan and brush. Rags or newspaper for blocking rope holes. Sturdy rubbish bags or rubble sacks. Duct tape or suitable ties to seal the bags. An industrial vacuum cleaner (with suitable filters etc). These can be hired and are very strongly recommended. Before going to the tower, you need to try on and fit your mask correctly to check that everything is as it should be. FFP3 masks usually have replaceable filter units and to be effective they must seal completely to your face. If you already have a mask, the filters should, of course, be suitably new and not clogged with dust from a previous use.\nNow you\u0026rsquo;re ready to go and clean up. Put your spare clothes and shoes in their bag and leave these in a suitable location where you can change as soon as possible after you finish cleaning. Put on your overalls, gloves and overshoes and start cleaning. First, maximise the ventilation in the bell chamber to blow away any dust raised. If possible, shut the access to the rooms below and block the rope holes with rags or newspaper as well, to keep the dust and dirt out.\nDon\u0026rsquo;t forget that disturbing nesting birds, their eggs or their nests (when being built or used) is a criminal offence punishable by an unlimited fine and up to six months in prison. If you\u0026rsquo;re not sure about the status of a nest, it\u0026rsquo;s best to leave it alone.\nThe hazardous material is now carefully placed in the bags using the shovel, dustpan, and brush (with minimal dust being raised) and the bags sealed with ties or tape when full. Don\u0026rsquo;t overfill the bags either, you need to be able to get them down the tower! If a suitable vacuum cleaner is available then dust should be picked up with it at the earliest opportunity. The brush should be used only as a last resort and then sparingly and slowly.\nHaving completed your glamorous task, you now have to seal each bag of hazardous waste inside another clean bag. Then remove all the bags, cleaning equipment, and other detritus from the belfry to wherever is most suitable (definitely not the ringing room).\nThen vacuum (or go outside and brush) any debris from your overalls.\nNow retire to the churchyard and remove your overalls, overshoes, and finally gloves, placing each in a rubbish bag as you remove them and seal the bag. Now you need to wash your hands very thoroughly and then change your clothes for the spare set. Put the clothes you were wearing into the spare clothes bag and launder them at the first opportunity. Shoes should be cleaned in whatever way is most suitable.\nThe bags of waste cannot be put into domestic waste collections but must be taken to your local waste disposal site.\nAll of the above is, of course, procedure for the worst case scenario where your tower has a significant amount of hazardous material. If the mess is limited to a couple of deceased avian visitors and a whole lot of ordinary dust then you can simplify the drill very greatly although the mask, gloves and vacuum cleaner are always to be strongly recommended.\nYou might be tempted to skip all of the protective equipment but when it comes down to it, it\u0026rsquo;s your health that\u0026rsquo;s at risk and surely that\u0026rsquo;s worth a whole lot of trouble? Read about some of the diseases I mentioned earlier and you won\u0026rsquo;t need persuading.\nFurther information on the topic is available from various sources, some of which are below:\nRemoving and disposing of dead wild birds (HSE)\nWorking with highly pathogenic avian influenza virus(HSE)\nBird flu (avian influenza): latest situation in England (UK Government)\nBack to Health \u0026amp; Safety Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0, February 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"},{"id":18,"href":"/docs/120-ropes/rope-driers/","title":"Rope Driers","section":"Ropes","content":" Appendix: Rope Driers for Bell Towers - Some Suggestions # Ringers may wish to use a ‘rope drier’ to reduce stiffness in bell ropes that become damp in an unheated ringing room. Driers are usually designed and assembled by volunteers. However, questions have been raised about some of the rope driers that have been seen during checks and inspections of churches and towers. For non-ringers, it is not immediately evident what the units are used for or how they are to be used. Being electrical equipment fitted with a mains power plug, the concern is reasonable.\nWe offer suggestions that should be considered when ringers are designing and constructing a rope drier. This is not a definitive guide; knowledgeable and experienced people should design the rope drier using appropriately specified parts, assembled according to manufacturers’ instructions.\nTechnical # A low wattage (typically 10-20W) heater of the type used for electronics cabinets (often referred to as an ‘enclosure heater’). Datasheets provided with such devices can be used to select the type of heater suitable for the volume of the rope drier Filament light bulbs should NOT be used as a heat source. The surface of the bulb gets very hot and, if broken, live wires are exposed. 13A power supply using UK standard 3 pin plug and appropriately rated flex Thermostat Timer to enable drier to be operated for a limited period before ringing On / off switch on the unit itself (as well as with mains socket) Warning pilot “on light” on the unit Over-temperature cut-out Residual current device Materials and parts used must not be combustible or flammable Adequate air flow to enable moisture to escape, not drip or condense particularly onto electrical parts Design # Dust and rope debris cannot build up on the heater Heater cannot be touched by people or the ropes while warm Easily cleaned inside and outside Easy to install ropes correctly and remove them Easy to disassemble and reassemble safely for portability Cannot be disassembled while electrically powered Compact for safe storage when not in use during ringing Stable when in use Documentation # Electrical and mechanical design and construction should be documented and retained with the unit Instructions for use and routine maintenance (including cleaning) should be available with the unit Unit should be labelled as to its function Drier should be included in register of electrical equipment for routine testing (PAT) Back to Ropes Disclaimer # Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this information, neither contributors nor the Central Council of Church Bell Ringers can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or for any activities undertaken based on the information provided.\nVersion 1.0, June 2023\n© 2023 Central Council of Church Bell Ringers\n"}] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/en.search.min.353426158c9ffbdf5128d73a3b830beaf68ee3b9f6fc2a64dc6b372cc3328fd4.js b/en.search.min.5871e96fbf410942b88d7ead122686112161f8ff1d2ccbde37c5e9826cbb0c72.js similarity index 90% rename from en.search.min.353426158c9ffbdf5128d73a3b830beaf68ee3b9f6fc2a64dc6b372cc3328fd4.js rename to en.search.min.5871e96fbf410942b88d7ead122686112161f8ff1d2ccbde37c5e9826cbb0c72.js index b6e53aab..7a2b7aca 100644 --- a/en.search.min.353426158c9ffbdf5128d73a3b830beaf68ee3b9f6fc2a64dc6b372cc3328fd4.js +++ b/en.search.min.5871e96fbf410942b88d7ead122686112161f8ff1d2ccbde37c5e9826cbb0c72.js @@ -1 +1 @@ -"use strict";(function(){const o="/en.search-data.min.de2738b02a4e599f0e78c2f743d55a9a8d481beeea5c085196016ec242554013.json",i=Object.assign({cache:!0},{doc:{id:"id",field:["title","content"],store:["title","href","section"]}}),e=document.querySelector("#book-search-input"),t=document.querySelector("#book-search-results");if(!e)return;e.addEventListener("focus",n),e.addEventListener("keyup",s),document.addEventListener("keypress",a);function a(t){if(t.target.value!==void 0)return;if(e===document.activeElement)return;const n=String.fromCharCode(t.charCode);if(!r(n))return;e.focus(),t.preventDefault()}function r(t){const n=e.getAttribute("data-hotkeys")||"";return n.indexOf(t)>=0}function n(){e.removeEventListener("focus",n),e.required=!0,fetch(o).then(e=>e.json()).then(e=>{window.bookSearchIndex=FlexSearch.create("balance",i),window.bookSearchIndex.add(e)}).then(()=>e.required=!1).then(s)}function s(){for(;t.firstChild;)t.removeChild(t.firstChild);if(!e.value)return;const n=window.bookSearchIndex.search(e.value,10);n.forEach(function(e){const n=c("
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